TR4/4A pesky right-ange drives , square pegs, round holes

The backgound to this topic can be read here:
https://www.tr-regist...-angled-drives/

Basically a fellow forumite sent me some right-angled drives for me to try to fix them.
As is often the case the flexible wire stubs were fractured.

I managed to make some new stubs based on 3mm flexible wire from a speedo drive cable.
This wire was sent in by another fellow forumite!

BUT

I think this is a far better way to fix these.

First the square peg, made from 3mm square "key-steel".
A piece of 1/8in key-steel is a perfect sliding fit in the gear-box take-off. So using 3mm generates a little clearance.
https://flic.kr/p/p58rxw

Now the converter to fit the round hole in the bevel gear:
https://flic.kr/p/pmCpNv

Goes together like this:
https://flic.kr/p/pjAjsN

The peg is retained in the converter by an O-ring, you can just see this , its blue, by looking down the hole:
https://flic.kr/p/p58f2V

If you ever break this peg, well just push in a new piece of key-steel!

That is indeed an elegant solution. Swiping one of your photos from that referenced discussion, this is the bit that breaks:



Looks like that original cable is just swaged in that round bit, hence I was able to pull it out one strand at a time.

Since my 'machine shop' consists of a grinder, hand-held drill and a hammer -- I had to content my self with yanking out the broken bit and JBWelding in a short length of cable. I was able to find in my box of 'broken parts saved through the years' a broken cable that still had a good tip, so it was easy enough to cut that end off for my purposes.

My fix works but yours looks better in every respect.

Thanks for that. Always nice to get a friendly reply to a post.

I'm doing a batch of these for UK-register guys and so you need some efficient machine work.

But anybody could fix one like this. Key-steel here is about 2USD for a foot length.
Making the "converter would only want a small square file and some work on a 1/8in hole.

Loctite would hold the converter in the bevel-gear although I cut an interference fit.

I'm repairing these because "repro" parts are poor compared to the originals.