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Thread: Instrument Faces

  1. #101
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    John,


    You have done again a great twofold job: by restoring the gages in detail and by teaching us their features with so many photos!
    Playing with the capillarity tube, the bulb and the ether inside is a challenge as well. There is some information out there on how to solder a new bulb with the gas to a gage with broken tube. I assume that you know it; otherwise, I can send it to you.


    Are the faces in these gages the original ones, or did you paint the lettering?


    Thanks again for sharing all this information.


    Jesus

  2. #102
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Hey Jesus! Those were the re-painted faces. When I install them all in the dash I'll post a before and after.

    I'd love to see the link to the capillary repair! Still waiting to hear from Marv about the speedo face...I'll let you know when he catches up!
    John

    Most of a 1955 TR2

  3. #103
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    John,

    There is an excellent description on the repair in the link:
    http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
    Aside from this, I’ll send to you a more basic document on the operation principles of the gauge.
    Jesus

  4. #104
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Interesting reading...thanks!
    John

    Most of a 1955 TR2

  5. #105
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Just for anyone still interested... here are a few pics of the KPH project...





    John

    Most of a 1955 TR2

  6. #106
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Nice work. Very nice.
    And it goes faster that way -it goes all the way to 200!
    59 TR3A "Butter"

  7. #107
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Quote Originally Posted by CJD View Post
    Speedo Recalibration

    For those that skipped ahead, I learned that it only takes a small rare earth magnet to calibrate the speedo. After smashing the tach face with the mutha magnet, I HIGHLY recommend you use the smaller magnet for the procedure. It's....well....more civilized when every knife and screw driver in the shop is not flying at you from every direction.

    So, to recap, you will need:

    1) a way to spin the speedo at a steady speed. I used a drill and a spare flex drive cable.

    2) A stop watch. I used an iphone.

    3) A SMALL!!! rare earth magnet.

    Here is the magnet I used...$1.50...



    Here is the set up I used to spin the speedo. You will notice I have a C-clamp by the drill. When you want to weaken the rotor magnet, it has to be spinning so it sees reversing poles. I use the c-clamp to hold the drill trigger at a reasonable speed. The trigger lock on the drill was WAY too fast for the speedo.

    Notice also that I always have the speedo oriented as it will be in the car. The needle is counter weighted to balance at the pivot...but over the years I do not trust the counterbalance to be perfect. So orient the gage the way it will be mounted.




    Here is the synopsis of how this works. I will be making a couple assumptions that I am sure many will not like. Please remember there are many ways to accomplish this process. I am inherently lazy, so this is the easiest I could think of. There are likely more accurate...but more time consuming ways to do it better. Feel free to attempt them if you want...and let us all know how it works.

    1) Remember how we set the needle to the little dot on the tach face at about minus 500? There is a similar dot for the speedo at about minus 5 mph. It is essential that you start with the needle set for this dot when the clock spring is unwound. The dot is more important on the speedo than on the tach. Just set the needle and forget about changing it.

    2) In Anthony's write up, he recommended a drive test to calibrate. I'm not going to do that. I will make the assumption that the odometer is geared correctly. I will calibrate the speedo to match the odometer reading...and I will be happy with that! In actuality, the speedo will be inaccurate by the same amount that the odometer is inaccurate. I can live with that. I did the same thing on the TR3, and it amounted to a 1% error. Again, I am happy with that small of an error.

    3) Remember the game you always play on a road trip, where you hold exactly 60 MPH and time how long it takes to travel a mile? That is what we will be doing. We are going to spin the speedo at exactly 60 MPH using the drill. When the trip odometer passes .1 we will hack the stop watch. After holding the 60 MPH for exactly 60 seconds, we will stop the drill and read how far the odometer registered. One minute should be exactly 1 mile.

    There are two possibilities...well three, since you could be right on for the first try. But that is never my luck.

    If the distance travelled is less than 1 mile in 1 minute: The speedo is reading to fast. We need to reduce the rotor magnetism. Do that by attaching the c-clamp to the drill trigger to spin the speedo while you place the small rare earth magnet 1/4" from the spinning rotor for 5 seconds.



    If the distance travelled is greater than 1.0 mile in 1 minute: The speedo is indicating to slow. We need to strengthen the rotor magnet. Touch the rare earth magent to the back of the rotor magnet and slide it outward and off. I guarantee it is now too strong, so after the next timed run you will surely have to repeat the de-goussing step.

    Repeat this process until 60 MPH indicated gives you exactly 1 miles travelled.

    Once you have checked the accuracy of the speedo at 60 MPH, double check it by holding 30 MPH for 1 minute and see how far the odometer travels. It should be exactly .5 miles. If it is off noticeably, then the clock spring pre-load is off. You likely missed the dot in the first step. Just move the needle a tad in the direction it needs to go...and start over.



    One point to note...if the needle "bounces" consistently a couple MPH while you are trying to hold a steady speed...the aluminum disc is likely bent. Use a screw driver to gently bend it straight.

    Here is my finished speedo. I started with the odometer at zero, so you can see exactly how many trials it took to get it calibrated...one mile per trial. 22 trials.



    Oh, installing the speedo in the case is exactly like the tach, with the exception of this felt seal for the trip reset shaft. Don't forget it!



    And finally, the starting point, for old times sake:



    I'll be taking a break before I tackle the small gages...
    Today I took the TR2 out to run some errands. Not finding what I needed, I wound up 70 miles away from home, and then had to rush home before the storm front hit...having not brought the hood with me since I thought I'd only be gone 30 minutes. Anyway, the point is I finally got the car on an extended freeway run and had time to check the speedo accuracy vs the Phone GPS. The speedo was spot on from 30 mph all the way up to 85 mph. I went to 100 trying not to get run over by the Texas Superduty pickups, but I failed to remove my white knuckles from the wheel long enough to check the accuracy that fast!?!

    That shows that the magnetizing technique in this post lasts at least 3 years. I was impressed at the accuracy of the Smith speedo over such a large range. I can take credit at 30 and 60...where I calibrated it. But I can't take credit at the range of accuracy of the gage itself... it amazed me that it stays accurate all the way to 85!
    John

    Most of a 1955 TR2

  8. #108

    Re: Instrument Faces

    OYep that first time an 18 wheeler rolls by on the interstate highway can be a bit fun... that is great to hear. I have marked this for reference as I have with all of your posts John. Glad that your are getting some drive time in!
    JP TS 35123 L (Family Resto)
    I can only gauge the quality of a friendship based on how hard it will be to shoot you when you turn into a Zombie; R.S.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/pucman/...7608177739192/
    http://s1066.photobucket.com/albums/u418/Pucman1/TR3A/

  9. #109
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Quote Originally Posted by Tr3aguy View Post
    OYep that first time an 18 wheeler rolls by on the interstate highway can be a bit fun... that is great to hear. I have marked this for reference as I have with all of your posts John. Glad that your are getting some drive time in!
    I used to say these cars were about as safe as a motorcycle. At least on a motorcycle your head is higher than the 18 wheel tires. In the Triumph your head's only half way up the tire. I think I have to lower the safety estimate some?!? I also decided Jerry is a real man's man for being able to put so many freeway miles on his car!
    John

    Most of a 1955 TR2

  10. #110
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Quote Originally Posted by CJD View Post
    ...In the Triumph your head's only half way up the tire...
    But at a stop light you can look at your reflection in the hub cap and comb your hair - if you have hair to comb.

    Great write and technique! Thanks!

  11. #111
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    Re: Instrument Faces

    Quote Originally Posted by Geo Hahn View Post
    But at a stop light you can look at your reflection in the hub cap and comb your hair - if you have hair to comb.
    Your optimism always lifts my spirits!
    John

    Most of a 1955 TR2

  12. #112

    Re: Instrument Faces

    No hair just sunscreen.... or a hat depending how long the outing is...

    Quote Originally Posted by Geo Hahn View Post
    But at a stop light you can look at your reflection in the hub cap and comb your hair - if you have hair to comb.

    Great write and technique! Thanks!
    JP TS 35123 L (Family Resto)
    I can only gauge the quality of a friendship based on how hard it will be to shoot you when you turn into a Zombie; R.S.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/pucman/...7608177739192/
    http://s1066.photobucket.com/albums/u418/Pucman1/TR3A/

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