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Odd Wiring Failures

RDKeysor

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I have just repaired the second seeming wire failure with my BN7 since I acquired it a year ago. This car had had a very extensive restoration, not a body off frame, but it has a great many parts replacements and upgrades. The first failure was the right front "sidelamp," what we Yanks would call a parking light. It worked, and then it didn't work. Though I have done a lot of automotive wiring--i've successfully done simple DIY chores like installing a VDO voltmeter and a cigar (really, a GPS) lighter. But I'm not really knowledgeable beyond reading wiring diagrams and simple circuit testers. I deduced that the wire from the light switch to the sidelamp had expired. Rather than trying to find a break in the wire inside the harness, I simply ran a new wire. Fixed. More recently I found my left turn flasher (turn signal) was doing a double time and the left front bulb filament was not lighting. The parking light filament, however, did. I ran a test wire from the proper pole on the flasher box to the turn flasher bulb contact and the bulb resumed functioning. So I replaced the flasher to bulb socket wire--it's only about 14 ". It remains puzzling to me that these wires would fail during a relatively uneventful life--well, I did drive it more than 400 miles to the delightful Brit car show near Tampa in November and back here to near Jacksonville. So, it's a 53 year old car, but I didn't have anything like this happen in seven years on my '62 Jag Mark 2, on which I did considerable electrical work, electronic ignition, radio speakers, third brake light, electric brake light switch and driving lights . In both cases with the Healey, I think I accurately deduced that the wire had failed. Have others had this happen?
 

Patrick67BJ8

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I have just repaired the second seeming wire failure with my BN7 since I acquired it a year ago. This car had had a very extensive restoration, not a body off frame, but it has a great many parts replacements and upgrades. The first failure was the right front "sidelamp," what we Yanks would call a parking light. It worked, and then it didn't work. Though I have done a lot of automotive wiring--i've successfully done simple DIY chores like installing a VDO voltmeter and a cigar (really, a GPS) lighter. But I'm not really knowledgeable beyond reading wiring diagrams and simple circuit testers. I deduced that the wire from the light switch to the sidelamp had expired. Rather than trying to find a break in the wire inside the harness, I simply ran a new wire. Fixed. More recently I found my left turn flasher (turn signal) was doing a double time and the left front bulb filament was not lighting. The parking light filament, however, did. I ran a test wire from the proper pole on the flasher box to the turn flasher bulb contact and the bulb resumed functioning. So I replaced the flasher to bulb socket wire--it's only about 14 ". It remains puzzling to me that these wires would fail during a relatively uneventful life--well, I did drive it more than 400 miles to the delightful Brit car show near Tampa in November and back here to near Jacksonville. So, it's a 53 year old car, but I didn't have anything like this happen in seven years on my '62 Jag Mark 2, on which I did considerable electrical work, electronic ignition, radio speakers, third brake light, electric brake light switch and driving lights . In both cases with the Healey, I think I accurately deduced that the wire had failed. Have others had this happen?
RDK, I've never seen wires fail in an Austin Healey but I have seen "bad grounds" cause some really stressful troubleshooting. It's might help if you find all the grounds and clean them up to make good contact. Your OD wiring is another issue...it's not fused! Same for the tail and license plate lights. Add fuses there too.

The bullet connections can give you lots of problems if they're not making good contact. I recomment the bullert insertion too, about $15.00, to eliminate potential problems. Loose terminal ends can create problems too. Best troubleshooting tool I have for electrical is a test light. Volt meters can show voltage but it may not be enought for curren to flow. The light solves that false security problem.

Join the St Johns Austin Healey Club(if you already haven't) and get some help. Norm Nocks "Tech Manual" is one of the best weapons against troubleshooting time.
 

Healey Nut

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[QUOTE
I recomment the bullert insertion too, about $15.00, [/QUOTE]

You gotta be kidding someone actually make a " bullett insertion tool" ??? Whats wrong with a 60 cent pocket screwdriver or even better the free pocket screwdriver that has "who knows whos" logo on it .
Thats my kinda tool... lol.
 
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Once you've used the "bullet tool" you're hooked for life! Mine came with a bullet connector kit; crimp-type & solder-on (better) terminals and a large quantity of single & double connecting sleeves__with real tension, something my originals gave up decades ago!

At least you made it to the Safety Harbor show (it's less than an hour north from me); my overdrive took a (catistrophic) dump the day before__but hey, at least I got the t-shirt...
 

Healey Nut

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So where do I get one of these Bullett Tools and what does it look like ?
 
OP
R

RDKeysor

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I started this thread. For the Jedi Knight, I am a borderline member of the St. Johns AH Club in the Jacksonville area. I traveled to Safety Harbor with two club members, and know several. They said wait until after the first of the year to join. I understand that the bullet connectors may be at fault, but in the case of the turn signal light, the connection to the flasher box was the u-shaped type, and I had the bullet connector off the the other end when I tested the wire. But I agree that these connectors can be problems. I use the diaelectric (sic) grease on all of my connections, as I think that may help preserve the conductivity. I've been under the dash this morning working on electrical issues, and dI think I'm learning. Don't concern myself too much with originality where it doesn't show, as my car came with the Toyota/Smitty gear box conversion, which rules it out as a show car. Very nice conversion, however. Had a similar 5-speed installed in my Jag MK2, and it was simply terrific, easily reaching modern highway speeds at low rpm, etc.
 

Healey Nut

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So where do I get one of these Bullett Tools and what does it look like ?

I found the tools and kit on the Moss site . Just the "closing tool is 40$ . I will stick with my freebie pocket screwdrivers and solder my bullets on . The kit with bullets connectors and the closing and crimping tools is 165$ . They can keep it .
 

Patrick67BJ8

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Once you've used the "bullet tool" you're hooked for life! Mine came with a bullet connector kit; crimp-type & solder-on (better) terminals and a large quantity of single & double connecting sleeves__with real tension, something my originals gave up decades ago!

At least you made it to the Safety Harbor show (it's less than an hour north from me); my overdrive took a (catistrophic) dump the day before__but hey, at least I got the t-shirt...
Here's the link to tools. Can't beat the "bullet tool". I got tired of sticking my fingers with the small screwdrivers and was never sure I had good solid connections. I like the tool best because you can be sure both ends are inserted to the correct depth. I did the old screwdriver method since '72 and I bought the "tools" early this year and wondered how I/why I wasted so much time before. The bullet connectors are easily crimped with the crimping tool and a solid crimp at that. I made the wiring harness for my AC System quickly and professionally with their "tools".
https://www.britishwiring.com/Tools-s/42.htm
 

Htimsc

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I looked at the tools on the website listed above. Sorry if I appear dumb, but I don't understand how they work, and would certainly like to do so before purchasing. Can someone point me to a location that explains that? Or copy and post the instructions (if that is not a problem). Thanks (before spending some pretty good dollars here....). Appreciate the help
 

bob hughes

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I found the tools and kit on the Moss site . Just the "closing tool is 40$ . I will stick with my freebie pocket screwdrivers and solder my bullets on . The kit with bullets connectors and the closing and crimping tools is 165$ . They can keep it .

Ouch

On this side of the pond you can get em for between £10 - £12 or as low a £5.0 if you go pre-loved on Ebay

There are more expensive versions available but hey who wants diamonds and gold on a tool that looks a bit like a twisted pair of scissors. :highly_amused:


I am with Patrick on clean connections, every year I make sure that the brake light/side light relay gets checked over as there has been a tendency to lose the brake lights occasionally and it has been attributed to a poor connection at the relay.

:cheers:

Bob
 

Bob_Spidell

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I found the tools and kit on the Moss site . Just the "closing tool is 40$ . I will stick with my freebie pocket screwdrivers and solder my bullets on . The kit with bullets connectors and the closing and crimping tools is 165$ . They can keep it .

You might get better prices on the tools here: https://www.britishwiring.com/Tools-s/42.htm

I bought the 'snap connector tool,' the bullet crimper and some bullet connectors from them. They came in handy when I had to install a complete harness in our BN2, esp. the connector tool (although I'm told you can 'roll your own' with a pair of pliers). When wiring the BN2, not only was one of the wires misidentified--otherwise I would have done the harness perfectly in one shot--one of the bullet connectors came off. I think it's things like this that contribute to the bad rep Lucas gets (although this was an aftermarket harness). If you've ever spent 3 days chasing down an electrical gremlin caused by a faulty connection--it's dang hard sometimes to get snap connectors to snap, and I cringe when I have to pull them apart--a $30 tool can seem like a screaming bargain.

Crimp connections are recommended--if not required--in aircraft wiring, where reliability is of some concern. I think this is due primarily to the potential for 'cold' solder joints; the joint may look fine, but become intermittent over time. The bullet crimping tool works a treat and, I think for the most part there is only one size of connector used (but I bought a range of them because I wasn't sure). A ratcheting terminal/butt crimper is far superior to the cheap 'pliers' type, though you can probably get them cheaper elsewhere (I bought one at a boat supply store). And don't forget the miracle that is heat shrink tubing.

Having the proper tools makes working on cars SO much more enjoyable, though I understand you don't always have exactly the right one and can't stop what you're doing to order one.
 

steveg

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I bought the snap tool from British Wiring. Works well. Don't have the $60 bullet crimper, so when I use Lucas bullets, they're the solder type, which are easy to reuse. My car came with a lot of modern bullets, blade and butt connectors, plus I've added a lot of stuff under the dash - am using modern crimp bullets for non-original, hidden connections. I like these because they have the factory-type second crimp to go around the insulation.
screenshot.1393.jpg


This looks like a good inexpensive crimping tool. It has the all-important points which cause the crimps to curve inward toward the wire. (yellow lines & funky drawing below)
screenshot.1394.jpg
 
Last edited:

Keoke

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Just remember the prelude to every electrical wire failure is a Mechanical one.
 
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