(edit) Oops posted same thing twice.
(edit) Oops posted same thing twice.
Last edited by glemon; 06-23-2013 at 07:42 PM.
I took my old, tank, the one that had been coated, to a shop to get boiled out, when they discovered it had been treated they said they couldn't do it, when pressed they said they could, but the price would about triple and they couldn't guarantee the results. I think the coating can work if the tank is very well prepped, but if you have it that well prepped, removing all the rust, don't know that it would be necessary to coat it. I have had a couple tanks with these types of issues over the years, if the car stalls because of it, if you sit for a few minutes their is no longer pressure holding the flake or debris in place and you can usually soldier on for a while until it happens again. If that doesn't work you can reverse blow some air into the fuel line by disconnecting it at the carbs, if you don't have compressed air and don't mind the taste of gas, you can blow through the fuel line. I limped home from a track day last year, where the sloshing around really broke up a lot of debris, by doing just that. Ended up going 50 miles about 3-10 miles at time, but got home fine. Replaced the tank and used the rock method described above on the new used tank, no problems since.
Sorry to post and go but I got a ReNu tank from my local Triumph parts guy Friday for $200 and comes with a life time warrantee. Car is now all done and fuel is flowing to the pump freely. (actually not free lets see $200 for tank, $60 for fuel pump I didn't need and other parts you get it) I was trying to get the car(s) done for the Vintage Races at Mid Ohio next weekend. My son talked me into going and I guess Saturday is British Car Day and we get to drive a lap around the track and I didn't want to be setting in the passenger's seat. so I took my TR7 to my customer who works on LBCs to get my new seat covers installed by an expert upholsterer. Hopfully there done in time so I can take both cars. While I was there the owner had to show me his new project. Surprised he let me set in it. Someone rear ended the Lotus and probably never saw the thing . It only comes up to my waistline.
Anyway to answer dkLawson's question I believe it was done in 2003 and fuel wasn't put in it until 05. Now about the toilet bowl cleaner it really does work. At a different customers last fall and he was using it to clean rust off a Spitfire frame. He told me about the gas tank use too but didn't mention the ice cubes.
Thanks for posting when you applied the POR. I will continue to keep an eye on my tank which was done within a year or so of when you coated yours. I am unclear though, did you use regular POR or their tank liner kit?
'64 Morris Mini Cooper-S 1275
'67 Triumph GT6 Mk1
'72 Spifire Mk4
I think you stole my tank.....Let me know how the coating goes.....I need to do mine as well.
JP TS 35123 L (Family Resto)
I can only gauge the quality of a friendship based on how hard it will be to shoot you when you turn into a Zombie; R.S.
A little bondo and tank sealer and it'll be good as new!
1966 TR4A IRS CTC69123L (first car and first love!)
1966 TR4A IRS CTC72159LO
1959 TR3A TS51339L
Hey, on a more serious note, I was wondering if it is possible to take a tank to have it galvanized? That's one of many things on my list to look into for this resto. If it's possible, it would completely eliminate the issues we have with rust.
Has anybody tried it?
1960 TR3A and part of a 1955 TR2
Haven't seen any places that do galvanizing other than a manufacturer, the formula was change to reduce lead, but it is mostly zinc anyway.
I have a hot tank, will give that a try 1st, the tanks are a 34 Harley VL and the other is a new 60's mustang. Guess I've been lucky the 2 TR3 tanks I've done only 1 pin hole, soldered that, cleaned again and sealed.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Slugg...87845251266156 a tongue-n-cheek look at our shop!