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Thread: TR4 Starter

  1. #1

    TR4 Starter

    I'm having mine checked at the shop. If it needs any work, should I just replace it with a high torque reduction starter. Sure looks smaller and easier to handle.

  2. #2

    Re: TR4 Starter

    Depends on how concerned you are with staying original, but I have used the high torque starter on each TR3 I've had and believe it is much better for a driver car and is something that can be reversed if someone really wants to go to "original". Shop around for best price. What I have seen, is most are remanufactured units that are just modified to fit and not much difference in the service you get. They are definitely easier to install.

  3. #3

    Re: TR4 Starter

    I agree, it is a reversible option and other than originality I don't see an issue. It will sound different when you start the car up, but other than that they work well.
    70 TR6 - running
    59 TR3A - slumbering
    64 TR4 - got another one!

  4. #4
    Luke Skywalker 3798j's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Susquehanna Valley

    Re: TR4 Starter

    That's what I'd miss - the sound.
    68 GT6, 66 TR4A

  5. #5

    Re: TR4 Starter

    What was wrong with your starter? Over the years I have reworked mine a few times -- brushes, pinion rubber (TR3A only), clean-up and re-wrapping the field windings (they can short out after many years of rubbing against the housing.

    The original units are pretty easy to service and when in good nick start the engine just fine.

    I'm guessing you're having Luna take a look at it.

  6. #6

    Re: TR4 Starter

    I agree with all of the above. When I found that I was having to work on the original starter (on my TR3A) almost every year and it twice quit during long drives (each 2000+ miles round trip); I bought a gear-drive from TRF. Their ad said it was new, but what I got had a "rebuilt" sticker on it. Works great, although after nearly 10 years of daily driving (not counting the few years it was idle after the wreck), I think it may be ready for "freshening" again.

    As a side comment, I changed the wiring a bit from the usual recommendation, so that the original solenoid only switches power to the new solenoid on the starter. That way the motor current doesn't have to pass through the original solenoid (which had previously lost some of its smoke), but the starter pushbutton (on a TR3) doesn't have to handle the increased current (and kickback) of the new solenoid, and I got to keep the function of the starter button under the hood.
    The change was easy, I just moved the battery cable to the bottom original solenoid terminal (where the heavy wire to the starter motor goes) and ran a new wire from the top terminal to the solenoid on the starter.
    Last edited by TR3driver; 02-18-2013 at 01:50 PM. Reason: Engrish as she is spoke
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild

  7. #7
    Luke Skywalker
    Join Date
    Mar 2002

    Re: TR4 Starter

    Just FYI, I just had one rebuilt and it cost $45. Looks like new again. I have not installed it but I am sure it works. I have taken a dozen starters, generators and alternators to this place and they are good with their work. My friends MGB starter cost more than that because it has a solenoid that needed to be replaced.


  8. #8

    Re: TR4 Starter

    Never had a starter problem with my '66 TR4a, it is the original.

  9. #9

    Re: TR4 Starter

    Yes I'll try Luna before caving to a new one. I have a hunch I should've checked out my solenoid. I'll do that next.

  10. #10

    Re: TR4 Starter


    Only $45 for reworking a auto starter equipment is cheap. Perhaps it was a friend who only replaced worn brushes , and sprayed paint! Even then!!

  11. #11

    Re: TR4 Starter

    Just got back from Luna. The starter was fine. When will I learn?

    The "new" shiny solenoid must be the problem. Either that or the ignition switch. Is there an easy way to test the solenoid?
    Last edited by KVH; 02-20-2013 at 02:12 AM. Reason: vanity

  12. #12

    Re: TR4 Starter

    Connect a voltmeter (or DMM set to volts) across the big terminals of the solenoid. Should read battery voltage, about 12.6 volts. Then use a temporary jumper between the battery terminal and the small side terminal on the solenoid, to simulate turning the key. Watch what the voltmeter does. It should drop to under 1 volt.

    I didn't see a description of symptoms, but I would probably repeat the test with the voltmeter probes held directly on top of the battery posts. If it doesn't hold at least 9-10 volts while cranking (in warm weather), the battery is bad (or run down) no matter what the shop told you.
    Last edited by TR3driver; 02-19-2013 at 11:26 PM. Reason: More info
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild


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