Click Here!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Alternator conversion

  1. #1
    Senior Member richie's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    70
    Chats
    0

    Alternator conversion

    Acknowledging this topic has been covered many times before, I am more curious to know if anyone values an alternator kit (like offered by britishwiring) vs purchasing a ubiquitous GM/Delco 7127 and performing the hacksaw/spacer mods outlined on VTR. I'm aiming for a clean look and minimal trips to the store on this one and don't mind spending the extra money if it's in fact well spent!

    The only somewhat unclear portion of going on my own with a 7127 is the pulley. Is the idea to purchase a model with the correct pulley, or do we need a specific pulley, is the generator pulley to be swapped (if compatible) etc?

    Thank you!
    Richie
    1965 TR4A: 1 & 2

  2. #2
    Great Pumpkin TR3driver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sunny So California
    Posts
    15,121
    Chats
    0

    Re: Alternator conversion

    Unless you have installed a narrow belt conversion, you will have to source and install the wide belt pulley. There is no Delco alternator that comes with a pulley for the stock belt, and the pulley from the generator won't fit without machining to fit the alternator shaft. The stock generator pulley is also larger diameter than is optimum for the alternator installation.

    For a simple bolt-on, it's probably best to go with the kit. I've always done my own conversions (back then I was not aware of any kits offered), and it has always been an iterative process.

    One question to ask : Does the conversion keep the original ammeter functional? Most do not, which may or may not be important to you. Some folks actually prefer the simplicity of a voltmeter, but I prefer an ammeter.
    Randall
    56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71 Stag LE2013LBW waiting gearbox rebuild

  3. #3

    Re: Alternator conversion

    I did my own conversionon the 3A gutting out a non-functional regulator to hide the electrical connections.
    I used a long stud with double nuts and a tube squeezed between the ears of the TR alternator mount. I first tried to hang it just using the front ear of the TR mount but it quickly vibrated itself loose. Stud mkes it easy to r&r.
    Pulley is easy to find as it is common for tractor conversions. You might not need to cut that 1/2" off the alternator ear, mine didn't. Just make sure that you line up the pulleys (use flat washers) and then decide.


    Richie, I think that I have a spare wide pulley. I'll PM you if I find it.
    PeterK
    1958 TR3A 1966 TR4A both HVDA

  4. #4
    Yoda TR4nut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    3,524
    Chats
    0

    Re: Alternator conversion

    I rolled my own also, as far as looks go, I don't think its much different than buying the kit. If Peter can't hook you up with a pulley, you can get one here:
    http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ternators.aspx

    Not much work to modify the alternator case, so while I have no problem with buying the kit it saved me a few bucks just doing it myself.
    Randy
    64 TR4
    59 TR3A
    60 TR3A
    70 TR6

  5. #5

    Re: Alternator conversion

    I got mine from ebay seller triodiode. Came with a special nut.

    I've got a just-in-case spare but easier to get one from one of these sources.
    PeterK
    1958 TR3A 1966 TR4A both HVDA

  6. #6
    Yoda martx-5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Kings Park, NY
    Posts
    6,129
    Chats
    26

    Re: Alternator conversion

    You can get the wide pulley from these guys...
    http://alternatorparts.com/Alternator_brackets_2.htm

    Part number A203
    Art
    '58 TR3A TS236xxL
    '92 Mazda Miata -- Supercharged
    '07 Mazda RX-8
    '11 Mazda CX-7

  7. #7
    Jedi Warrior
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    South Charleston, WV USA
    Posts
    459
    Chats
    0

    Re: Alternator conversion

    We bushed the pulley to the mitsubishi alternator I used.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Acton, Massachusetts
    Posts
    106
    Chats
    0

    Re: Alternator conversion

    I bought the british wiring kit, and it "bypasses" the ammeter by running power directly to the starter solenoid. Also, the kit does not eliminate the need to take off material from the alternator housing to align the pulleys. The alternator is stock and has not been modified. The kit includes the single wire alternator with correct wide belt pulley, correct bolt and spacers to mount in original engine block bracket, the heavy wire cable harness to the solenoid, several pigtails used to reconfigure the harness connections to the control box, and directions.

    In the end I wanted to keep the ammeter (which I prefer to the voltmeter), along with the original wiring connections to the control box. So I purchased a control box from a lister that had been gutted and modified for this purpose, installed the alternator, replaced the connectors on the existing wiring for the alternator, and rearranged the control box connections as directed. It works great, the wiringn looks original, and the current draw on start up has always been below 30 amps so to date I have not yet found the need to install the Ammeter Shunt Modification that Randall has described in several posts. In the end, for me, it was worthwhile to get the new (not rebuilt) alternator with the correct pulley installed, and mounting hardware, even though I did not use any of the cables or wiring bits included in the kit. If you want a voltmeter, or don't mind a non functioning ammeter, the kit makes total sense....
    Mike Godley
    65TR4A

  9. #9
    Senior Member gubba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Mission B.C. Canada
    Posts
    100
    Chats
    0

    Re: Alternator conversion

    For what its worth I've done both my cars. Generator to alternator. I am just too cheep to spring for the kit..some 200 bucks. You can get the alt. way cheeper. I used the pully off of the original gen. and had the electirc shop drill it out to fit the new alt. 25 bucks i think. Its very easy to do. I saw a nipon alt. or something like that at one of the car shows..very small.. maybe half the size of the regular alt. It was in a restored tr3a and it looked great... I wish I had known about this one when I did mine. The only other thing that I didn't do was to take the insides out of the regulator so you don't have to cut any wires and It looks away better. I don't have any charging issues anymore.
    My Woman drives me to drink... But then she drives me home... Too
    Fleet now
    1967 TR4A IRS CTC74910L ( Big Red )
    1962 TR3B TCF1925L ( Beeker )
    1961 TR3A TS69594L ( sold )

  10. #10
    Senior Member SMGoose's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Columbia, MO
    Posts
    102
    Chats
    0

    Re: Alternator conversion

    What about keeping the thinner pulley on the replacement alternator and changing the crankshaft and water pump pulleys to match and get the advantages of the thinner belt? Has anyone done this? Any idea of the cost comparison or where to get the pulleys?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •