Removal and Refinishing BJ8 Wood Dashboard

pkmh · Jun 24, 2012

Dear Forum,

I am interested in removing and restoring my existing BJ8 Walnut Burl Dash for the purposes of refinishing using polyurethane. I am presently gathering a lot of information on the subject and would like to share here at a later time before actually doing.

With disassembling though, I have removed the glove box door and all hardware. I even went further to successfully removing the existing lacquer finish using a dull safety blade with no damage to the veneer at all. Wasn't easy on my fingers and knuckles but wasn't impossible.

But in terms of removing the wood door surround, I went far as to remove some screws, a bolt connection to the side next to the door frame/bulkhead. But somehow, I believe it might be necessary to remove the entire fascia (which includes the light switches, etc.).

In trying to learn more about the removal process, I have ventured here on older posts but to no avail, or have not found stored pictures or text on the subject.

If anyone can offer info on what is needed to finish removing all wood pieces or even inform me as to reference material out there in the form of sites, books, etc., I would much appreciate it.

Otherwise, I must assume I will have to remove that center fascia panel, including all those switches and the radio console as well.

Is there an easier process? Any advise or recommendations?

Please offer if possible.

Thanks so much,

Paul

Keoke · Jun 24, 2012

I must assume I will have to remove that center fascia panel, including all those switches and the radio console as well.

No
Very simply you will only be required to remove all the instruments to gain access to the panel fasteners as well as removing the panel physicaly.

A good book will be rquired on preparing and refinishing the panels it is quite involved and a relatively long slow process.

One product you needIMOP is Lac-a-Frenxh---French laquer it is old world but fantastic product.

dougsmarkIII · Jun 24, 2012

Go to your nearest Hobby Lobby or Michaels and purchase a "Pour-On" epoxy HIGH GLOSS FINISH BY EnviroTex Lite. Several owners have used this product on their dashes including me and it's a great finish. It's a one-time process without requiring applications of several coats such as a varnish.

Just follow the directions on the box.

Doug

pkmh · Jun 25, 2012

Keoke,

Thanks about the driver side wood panel. That seems easy enough.

I still am not quite sure the process involved in removing the passenger side panel and that is where I am most stuck on.

There is that glove box compartment, made of blackened cardboard that doesn't seem to just come out. I was able to remove a row of screws at its lower portion but that's about it, plus some of the wood screws to the panel as it is secured to the metal sides. The enclosure seems loose enough but still not sure what the trick is in removing the glove box's surrounding panel or the glove box enclosure, if that is the case. Maybe the enclosure gets "pushed" through toward the engine bulkhead for removal? I say that because the door slider hardware mounted on a fixed peg on the side has a slit in the cardboard enclosure. Maybe this serves as a push through. Any Advise?

As for finishes mentioned, someone I met with mentioned using "White Bond Poly". Any thoughts about using this as a finish? This "HIGH GLOSS FINISH" by EnviroTex mentioned above sounds easy and I will look into the "Lac-a-Frenxh". Can the EnviroTex be lightly sanded and mechanically buffed out to look perfectly mirror-like and glossy?

So far, I've asked several people about finishes and received several different solutions. I see this can get quite involved. I know what I want is a clear, high gloss finish bringing out the most in the existing wood grain. I am not sure if I need to stain the veneer or just leave natural after I've clean and prep it for the clear coat. I have very lightly sanded the veneer and been using an "After Wash", thus far. Did the factory ever stain their panels or were they left natural? I ask this because as I am using the after wash, the wood veneer is becoming slightly more bright or lighter in appearance.

I did actually purchased a new wood panel set for the BJ8 from someone on eBay but returned for the gap was too great between the glove box door and frame. It would of looked like a mistake after the hardware was installed. Otherwise, the finish was mirror-like and professional. So this is why I am going to attempt to salvage and do myself. The grain on mine is actually nicer, more dramatic, too.

Once I can remove the glove box door's panel, I will post photos of the door in progress with the existing surrounding panel and ask for further advise or opinions about staining vs. no staining.

Thanks again in advance.

Paul

RAC68 · Jun 25, 2012

Paul,

Your will have to remove the console to get access to the screws securing the wood panels to t he vinyl-covered upper center dash. Although you may be able to access the securing screws once the instruments are extracted, it is definitely necessary take out the passenger dash. Since the other attachments (corner brackets to door-side cockpit wall, support brackets) are reasonable accessible. One last point, the passenger dash comes out as a unit and is easily disassembled once out.

To refinish the dash, you will first have to thoroughly remove all original industrial finish. Although you indicated scraping the finish off, I would chose a quality stripper and take a number of passes and time. I would also recommend a light sanding of the veneer and a stain to enrich the color.

Although a number of coatings have been suggested, I prefer multiple coats of a good varnish being sure to allow thorough drying and rub-out between coats. I completed the buildup once the coating allowed a slight indication around each of the major gnarls to keep the indication of true wood (furniture) and not plastic. A final rubout with a fine compound exposed the deep shine.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

Patrick67BJ8 · Jun 25, 2012

pkmh said:
Keoke,

Thanks about the driver side wood panel. That seems easy enough.

I still am not quite sure the process involved in removing the passenger side panel and that is where I am most stuck on.

There is that glove box compartment, made of blackened cardboard that doesn't seem to just come out. I was able to remove a row of screws at its lower portion but that's about it, plus some of the wood screws to the panel as it is secured to the metal sides. The enclosure seems loose enough but still not sure what the trick is in removing the glove box's surrounding panel or the glove box enclosure, if that is the case. Maybe the enclosure gets "pushed" through toward the engine bulkhead for removal? I say that because the door slider hardware mounted on a fixed peg on the side has a slit in the cardboard enclosure. Maybe this serves as a push through. Any Advise?

As for finishes mentioned, someone I met with mentioned using "White Bond Poly". Any thoughts about using this as a finish? This "HIGH GLOSS FINISH" by EnviroTex mentioned above sounds easy and I will look into the "Lac-a-Frenxh". Can the EnviroTex be lightly sanded and mechanically buffed out to look perfectly mirror-like and glossy?

So far, I've asked several people about finishes and received several different solutions. I see this can get quite involved. I know what I want is a clear, high gloss finish bringing out the most in the existing wood grain. I am not sure if I need to stain the veneer or just leave natural after I've clean and prep it for the clear coat. I have very lightly sanded the veneer and been using an "After Wash", thus far. Did the factory ever stain their panels or were they left natural? I ask this because as I am using the after wash, the wood veneer is becoming slightly more bright or lighter in appearance.

I did actually purchased a new wood panel set for the BJ8 from someone on eBay but returned for the gap was too great between the glove box door and frame. It would of looked like a mistake after the hardware was installed. Otherwise, the finish was mirror-like and professional. So this is why I am going to attempt to salvage and do myself. The grain on mine is actually nicer, more dramatic, too.

Once I can remove the glove box door's panel, I will post photos of the door in progress with the existing surrounding panel and ask for further advise or opinions about staining vs. no staining.

Thanks again in advance.

Paul

The Glovebox side is a litle trickier than the drivers side. I'v had better luck leaving the glove box attached and removing the 5 screws that attach the Glovebox dash to the center "switch" panel.
*Remove the 5 screws that attach the Switch panel to the Dash.
*Remove the "nut" on the highest part of the backside of the Dash.
*Remove the bolts that attach the dash black bracket to the chassis.
*Remove the screws that attach the rear of the Glovebox to the chassis.

I usually remove the seat cushion and lay on a pillow to do this job. Be sure you have a screwdriver with an excellent tip. This is not a difficult job but it takes patience.

Keoke · Jun 25, 2012

The Glovebox side is a litle trickier than the drivers side. I'v had better luck leaving the glove box attached and removing the 5 screws that attach the Glovebox dash to the center "switch" panel.

:iagree:

Patrick67BJ8 · Jun 25, 2012

Keoke said:
The Glovebox side is a litle trickier than the drivers side. I'v had better luck leaving the glove box attached and removing the 5 screws that attach the Glovebox dash to the center "switch" panel.

I believe that's what I said? I didn't say to remove the glovebox or any screws attaching the glovebox to the dash. (maybe it's Monday?)

RAC68 · Jun 25, 2012

Patrick,

I think we are all saying the same thing. The passenger dash should be taken out as one unit and not dismantled while still installed. Your picture of the 5 screws shows how difficult it would be to get to those screws with the console still installed.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

Keoke · Jun 25, 2012

Patrick67BJ8 said:
pkmh said:

Keoke,

Thanks about the driver side wood panel. That seems easy enough.

I still am not quite sure the process involved in removing the passenger side panel and that is where I am most stuck on.

There is that glove box compartment, made of blackened cardboard that doesn't seem to just come out. I was able to remove a row of screws at its lower portion but that's about it, plus some of the wood screws to the panel as it is secured to the metal sides. The enclosure seems loose enough but still not sure what the trick is in removing the glove box's surrounding panel or the glove box enclosure, if that is the case. Maybe the enclosure gets "pushed" through toward the engine bulkhead for removal? I say that because the door slider hardware mounted on a fixed peg on the side has a slit in the cardboard enclosure. Maybe this serves as a push through. Any Advise?

As for finishes mentioned, someone I met with mentioned using "White Bond Poly". Any thoughts about using this as a finish? This "HIGH GLOSS FINISH" by EnviroTex mentioned above sounds easy and I will look into the "Lac-a-Frenxh". Can the EnviroTex be lightly sanded and mechanically buffed out to look perfectly mirror-like and glossy?

So far, I've asked several people about finishes and received several different solutions. I see this can get quite involved. I know what I want is a clear, high gloss finish bringing out the most in the existing wood grain. I am not sure if I need to stain the veneer or just leave natural after I've clean and prep it for the clear coat. I have very lightly sanded the veneer and been using an "After Wash", thus far. Did the factory ever stain their panels or were they left natural? I ask this because as I am using the after wash, the wood veneer is becoming slightly more bright or lighter in appearance.

I did actually purchased a new wood panel set for the BJ8 from someone on eBay but returned for the gap was too great between the glove box door and frame. It would of looked like a mistake after the hardware was installed. Otherwise, the finish was mirror-like and professional. So this is why I am going to attempt to salvage and do myself. The grain on mine is actually nicer, more dramatic, too.

Once I can remove the glove box door's panel, I will post photos of the door in progress with the existing surrounding panel and ask for further advise or opinions about staining vs. no staining.

Thanks again in advance.

Paul

Click to expand...

The Glovebox side is a litle trickier than the drivers side. I'v had better luck leaving the glove box attached and removing the 5 screws that attach the Glovebox dash to the center "switch" panel.
*Remove the 5 screws that attach the Switch panel to the Dash.
*Remove the "nut" on the highest part of the backside of the Dash.
*Remove the bolts that attach the dash black bracket to the chassis.
*Remove the screws that attach the rear of the Glovebox to the chassis.

I usually remove the seat cushion and lay on a pillow to do this job. Be sure you have a screwdriver with an excellent tip. This is not a difficult job but it takes patience.

Yeah these Mondays can be tough-- :lol:

dancrim · Jun 25, 2012

I did my own a few years ago and it still looks beautiful. I used the pour on
Enviro Tex (available at some hardware stores). I found sanding the old finish off , and you have to remove the old veneer is the best bet. Then re-veneer and finish. If your interested I have enough burl walnut veneer to do a set and
also set of original wood panels all sanded flat and ready to veneer. I made a veneer press and can send you directions. The burl walnut I have looks great and is flat.

pkmh · Jun 25, 2012

dancrim said:
I did my own a few years ago and it still looks beautiful. I used the pour on
Enviro Tex (available at some hardware stores). I found sanding the old finish off , and you have to remove the old veneer is the best bet. Then re-veneer and finish. If your interested I have enough burl walnut veneer to do a set and
also set of original wood panels all sanded flat and ready to veneer. I made a veneer press and can send you directions. The burl walnut I have looks great and is flat.

Thanks for the tip and offer. I am really going to try to keep my existing veneer since there is really nothing major wrong with it, except for a little burnishing along raised linear areas, and that's not much, at least not yet. Evrything else is adhering quite well. Only the existing lacquer needs to be removed and redone.

Hopefully this week or next I will have the pieces removed and will post photos here for viewing.

Thanks for the help and I'll let you know.

Paul

pkmh · Jun 25, 2012

Keoke said:
Patrick67BJ8 said:

pkmh said:

Keoke,

Thanks about the driver side wood panel. That seems easy enough.

I still am not quite sure the process involved in removing the passenger side panel and that is where I am most stuck on.

There is that glove box compartment, made of blackened cardboard that doesn't seem to just come out. I was able to remove a row of screws at its lower portion but that's about it, plus some of the wood screws to the panel as it is secured to the metal sides. The enclosure seems loose enough but still not sure what the trick is in removing the glove box's surrounding panel or the glove box enclosure, if that is the case. Maybe the enclosure gets "pushed" through toward the engine bulkhead for removal? I say that because the door slider hardware mounted on a fixed peg on the side has a slit in the cardboard enclosure. Maybe this serves as a push through. Any Advise?

As for finishes mentioned, someone I met with mentioned using "White Bond Poly". Any thoughts about using this as a finish? This "HIGH GLOSS FINISH" by EnviroTex mentioned above sounds easy and I will look into the "Lac-a-Frenxh". Can the EnviroTex be lightly sanded and mechanically buffed out to look perfectly mirror-like and glossy?

So far, I've asked several people about finishes and received several different solutions. I see this can get quite involved. I know what I want is a clear, high gloss finish bringing out the most in the existing wood grain. I am not sure if I need to stain the veneer or just leave natural after I've clean and prep it for the clear coat. I have very lightly sanded the veneer and been using an "After Wash", thus far. Did the factory ever stain their panels or were they left natural? I ask this because as I am using the after wash, the wood veneer is becoming slightly more bright or lighter in appearance.

I did actually purchased a new wood panel set for the BJ8 from someone on eBay but returned for the gap was too great between the glove box door and frame. It would of looked like a mistake after the hardware was installed. Otherwise, the finish was mirror-like and professional. So this is why I am going to attempt to salvage and do myself. The grain on mine is actually nicer, more dramatic, too.

Once I can remove the glove box door's panel, I will post photos of the door in progress with the existing surrounding panel and ask for further advise or opinions about staining vs. no staining.

Thanks again in advance.

Paul

Click to expand...

The Glovebox side is a litle trickier than the drivers side. I'v had better luck leaving the glove box attached and removing the 5 screws that attach the Glovebox dash to the center "switch" panel.
*Remove the 5 screws that attach the Switch panel to the Dash.
*Remove the "nut" on the highest part of the backside of the Dash.
*Remove the bolts that attach the dash black bracket to the chassis.
*Remove the screws that attach the rear of the Glovebox to the chassis.

I usually remove the seat cushion and lay on a pillow to do this job. Be sure you have a screwdriver with an excellent tip. This is not a difficult job but it takes patience.

Yeah these Mondays can be tough-- :lol:

Well, for this Monday, I decided to take a little snooze. Tomorrow is another day.

Click to expand...

pkmh · Jun 25, 2012

Thanks Ray and everyone for the insight,

I will eventually go forward with this. Going to be a bit of work, especially with the driver side panel. Have to remove all those gauges, not that that's a big deal, but the oil/temp gauge has me worried--don't really want to create any new headaches with the existing oil and water connections possibly not working properly when reconnecting). So with that, I will attempt to remove the glass bezel from the gauge and leave the gauge connected. I did this routine when the tach was out but had problems removing the bezel from the housing. That was a job in itself.

Paul

dphilippo · Jun 26, 2012

There is an article on John Sims Healey6.com website under tech articles/interior about refinishing the dash. It originated on Jim Werner's healey site. It describes in detail the use of Envirotex and I found it very useful in refinishing my dash. The envirotex finish is great, looks original, and seven years and 20,000 miles later still looks great.
Drew,
65 BJ8

pkmh · Jun 26, 2012

Thanks Drew. I will look into this envirotex. Hearing favorable responses. Any negative responses regarding this "White Bond Poly?" I will also look into the French Lacquer as advised. That too, seems to be interesting.

Started removing the driver side dash. Besides the few remaining screws to remove, the only other gauge to remove is the oil/temp gauge. Thought I could leave that more or less in place but the housing also has a lip like all the other gauges so I will have to disconnect and or those rigid lines and I guess it makes sense to do so from the engine than trying from behind the gauge, if that makes sense.

I remember reading about properly reconnecting so their readings are accurate once reconnected. I guess when it comes to reconnecting, I'll discover if the readings are as they were.

Paul

dphilippo · Jun 26, 2012

Paul,
Just a heads up, the oil/temp gauge and tube are not made to be taken apart. Don't try to separate the sensor and tube from the back of the gauge. It has to be removed from the engine block and then threaded back through the firewall and the dash. Hit it with PB Blaster ahead of time to loosen it up and be careful as it's an expensive piece to break. There are many posts in the forum on removing this and creating special tools to do so. I took a box wrench and cut a slot to fit around the tube and didn't have too much trouble with mine but there are a lot of folks who end up fighting to get it out.
Thanks,
Drew

pkmh · Jun 26, 2012

Thanks again Drew,

I also got the same heads-up about the oil/temp gauge earlier today from another Healey fellow. Luckily, I didn't tackle this yet, so no harm done. I will use the PB Plaster and go from there.

Again, thanks for the warning and good advise!

Paul

pkmh · Jun 29, 2012

dphilippo said:
Paul,
Just a heads up, the oil/temp gauge and tube are not made to be taken apart. Don't try to separate the sensor and tube from the back of the gauge. It has to be removed from the engine block and then threaded back through the firewall and the dash. Hit it with PB Blaster ahead of time to loosen it up and be careful as it's an expensive piece to break. There are many posts in the forum on removing this and creating special tools to do so. I took a box wrench and cut a slot to fit around the tube and didn't have too much trouble with mine but there are a lot of folks who end up fighting to get it out.
Thanks,
Drew

Drew and Forum,

Don't know if I should show the following as a new post but I am looking at this as a following up, so here goes...

One last obstacle in order to successfully remove the driver side wood dash...the temperature gauge. Specifically, the sensor part at the engine.

For the last few days, I have attempted to remove the temperature gauge sensor at the engine block. I fully appreciate your words regarding the difficulty in removing this part. I've constantly been doucing with PB Blaster, used opened ended wrenches, used a little flame on the nut (hopefully, away enough from the sensor), even one of those "crows foot" open ended box wrenches (made by no other than Snap-on). Still, even that would slip around the hex nut. It is on tight! I must now abbandom further efforts to use open ended box wrenches in fear I will round off the hex edges.

Biggest problem I see, no room for leverage, unless I remove the radiator, which is the next step now. Not the end of the world. Draining, unscrew some bolts and two hose connections to be undone. Already done that before so no challenge there.

I see Moss has a new gauge listed as a replacement, just in case, with exception to some slight differences. Has anybody replaced theirs and what are these slight differences??

I may have to cut the sensor's line in order to place a socket over to remove, but that will be my last resort.
For now I see no other recourse than to remove the radiator as my next step. Any other thoughts or ideas, please chime in (but by that time, I will probably have removed the radiator).

Paul

PS. The oil connection was easy to remove from behind the gauge and I see no other way to have removed that from anywhere else. So I believe I did that procedure correctly.

rjc157 · Jun 29, 2012

Paul what you have to do is get a socket i think its 5/8 and cut a wedge out of one side large enough for the wire to pass through

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Removal and Refinishing BJ8 Wood Dashboard

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