TR2/3/3A TR3 Choke Cable

af3683

Jedi Trainee

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• Dec 27, 2011

• #1

When I pull the choke knob all the way out on my TR-3 the front jet lever moves about 1/2 way to the choke cable support on the jet link. When the choke knob is pushed all the way in, the front jet lever is perfectly vertical which is how I believe it should be. I've seen photos on this forum of H6 carbs that when fully choked the jet lever nearly touches the choke cable support. Can anyone tell me if I need to pull more of the choke cable wire through the cable connector which would move the jet lever toward the cable support? I'm not sure that my car is getting fully choked right now, however, I don't want to be driving with the choke partially on all the time either. Thank you very much for your help.

Art

 

CJD

Yoda

Offline

• Dec 27, 2011

• #2

It sounds like the knob may not be fully out. I installed mine with the lever at the mechanical stop, and the lever is almost touching the cable support when full applied.

Try lubricating the cable and lever to see if you can pull the knob farther...


John

 

OP

af3683

Jedi Trainee

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• Dec 27, 2011

• #3

Thanks John. The knob appears to be all the way out. I have lubricated the jet lever pivot points, the exposed portion of the cable wire, and the cable knob but it doesn't seem to help me pull it any further out. I really think it it out as far as it will go. It is possible that it might be the original cable.

Art

 

CJD

Yoda

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• Dec 28, 2011

• #4

Have you got a pic of the bottom of the carb?

 

OP

af3683

Jedi Trainee

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• Dec 28, 2011

• #5

I can certainly take a few pictures, however I've never been able to post pictures on this forum.

Art

 

Moseso

Jedi Knight

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• Dec 28, 2011

• #6

I adjusted my cable/linkage by putting the choke knob on the first stop. At that point, the linkage is supposed to have used up all the "slop" provided by the oversize holes in the link levers -- have moved the fast idle cam a bit -- and be JUST at the point of starting to pull the jets down.

That's the most critical factor of choke cable adjustment. Getting "full choke" is much less important. Even on sub-freezing Minneapolis mornings, I never need to pull my choke all the way out to make the car start right up.

 

mgedit

Jedi Knight

Offline

• Dec 28, 2011

• #7

af3683 said:

I can certainly take a few pictures, however I've never been able to post pictures on this forum.

Art

Click to expand...

Hi Art

Here is what I do to post a picture:
1. Open an account with an online photo-hosting site (I use Photobucket).
2. Upload the picture you want to post to the hosting site.
3. Copy the IMG code from the hosting site.
4. Paste the IMG code directly into your message.

That is how this one is done.

Hope this helps. Cheers, Mike

 

OP

af3683

Jedi Trainee

Offline

• Dec 28, 2011

• #8

Thanks for the instructions Mike on how to post pictures. Hopefully there is a picture with the choke off and another with the choke on. I hope I did it right.

Art

 

OP

af3683

Jedi Trainee

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• Dec 28, 2011

• #9

I finally figured it out. Here are my pictures without choke and with choke. It seems to me that both jet levers should be moving quite a bit more when the choke is on. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Art

 

CJD

Yoda

Offline

• Dec 28, 2011

• #10

I think you're right, it should give you a bit more "throw". If you have a little cable left, try placing the end of the tube right at the edge of the tube clamp.

If you loosen the clamp and move the lever by hand can you get full throw at the lever?

John

 

S

SPACER

Member

Offline

• Jan 3, 2012

• #11

I found that if I clamp the end of my outer cable almost flush with the clamp I get a little more throw. From your pics, you could still pull the outer cable back about half an inch.
It is worth a try.

Bob

 

Don Elliott

Obi Wan

Offline

• Jan 3, 2012

• #12

Secure the clamp at the end od the sheath as suggested above. But also remove the 8" or 10" long horizontal rod that joins the two bottoms as shown in your photo. Set the adjusting nut on that rod for the rear carb connection further back and re-assemble it so the brass rear choke rod is angled down and backwards the same amount as for the front carb. This will give you more choke for the 2nd carb and the two carbs should be at the same choke setting. You will see the rear jet will get pulled down further.

Also try what the TRA Judging Rules specify as shown in the photo of my front carb. I know it's not logical but makes it work.

 

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racingenglishcars

Darth Vader

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• Jan 3, 2012

• #13

I think the problem can be summed up in the pictures shown earlier

This is a common problem but can be repaired using a small piece of 1/4 ID pipe fitted into the lever arm

 

CJD

Yoda

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• Jan 3, 2012

• #14

Excellent catch, Donn!

 

OP

af3683

Jedi Trainee

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• Jan 3, 2012

• #15

Thanks everyone for your help. Don, you are saying that I should move the cable clamp pin over to the other side so that it first goes into the fork on the connecting rod and then into the jet lever, with the cotter pin on the outside? I will go ahead and make the correction tonight.

I have been wrestling with the proper way to connect the jet control connecting rod as well as the cable clamp pin for several months now. I've switched them back and forth numerous times based on articles I've read and pictures I've seen on the internet. I've seen the photo in the TR-3 Practical Hints guide but it doesn't appear to be conclusive. There is much disagreement.

I checked the the TRA Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines but could not find a reference to the position of the jet control connecting rod and cable clamp pin. Can you please provide me with the reference.

Thank you very much.

Art

 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P

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• Jan 3, 2012

• #16

racingenglishcars said:

I think the problem can be summed up in the pictures shown earlier

Click to expand...

But don't forget, there is supposed to be a fair amount of play in that joint. That is what allows the fast idle cam to be moved without activating the choke.

 

Don Elliott

Obi Wan

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• Jan 3, 2012

• #17

I agree with Randall. These two sloppy holes are designed that way. I don't have the reference from TRA for that. I just assumed that it was in the book because for years, I had it the logical way and many of the judges told me how I should have it. I used to lose a part of a point till I changed it.

AND IT WORKS A LOT BETTER !

 

Geo Hahn

Yoda

Offline

• Jan 3, 2012

• #18

From the 'Practical Hints', the set-up is far from intuitive:

That rear fitting does seem to usually have a lot of slop. I slightly pre-load it when I adjust the length of the connecting rod but I think you do want the butterfly open with the first notch of the cable pull and the jets to lower after that.