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TR2/3/3A TR3 Inner Door Handle Parts
- Thread starter luke44
- Start date
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John_Nichols
Freshman Member
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used ones I've got plenty of, if that will help, there is about 40 doors I'm going to strip, john
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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Luke - Here is a photo from the BRG TR3A we finished in 2006. It's a late TR3A (TS 81551 L) compared to your "early" door. And my photo shows the door mounted on the LH side. My point is that while we can't see you doorhandle on the far side of your photo, I can tell you that the handle is aiming upwards at about 45 degrees or it's drooping about 45 degrees.
To get the handle to sit correctly (horizontally), the square end on the handle we see needs to be horizontal too. To get it this way your "dog-leg" link needs to be more vertical as in my photo. You might have to releive some interference where it stops up top - or you might tack-weld a larger curve on the top of the "dog-leg".
To get the handle to sit correctly (horizontally), the square end on the handle we see needs to be horizontal too. To get it this way your "dog-leg" link needs to be more vertical as in my photo. You might have to releive some interference where it stops up top - or you might tack-weld a larger curve on the top of the "dog-leg".
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OP
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I think the important part I am missing is labelled #2 above. here is what I have right now.....you can see the remains of some solder in the background.
I am wondering if there used to be solder in there holding the handle? The piece was seized, and I took the torch to it. I wonder if I accidentally melted the solder?
I am wondering if there used to be solder in there holding the handle? The piece was seized, and I took the torch to it. I wonder if I accidentally melted the solder?
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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I never saw any solder near any of the door-handles. On very early hardtop model TR2s and TR3s where there were no door handles so the factory made holes in the door shins and mounted doorhandles. They did not try to raise the "bump" that we all see on TR3A doors which support flat base of the chromed door handle.
It may be possible that someone used solder on such a door to build up the base so it would look correct on a TR3A. But not inside the door behind the mechanism.
It may be possible that someone used solder on such a door to build up the base so it would look correct on a TR3A. But not inside the door behind the mechanism.
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Aloha Luke,
That round piece of pot metal with a point on it that fit on the square shaft of the door handle is something you can not get from one of the usual part supply houses. The point keeps the latch mechanism from slipping as the door handle turns to unlatch the door bolt. Probably your best source is John's offer. When I needed one, I asked fellow members of the forum and they helped me out.
That round piece of pot metal with a point on it that fit on the square shaft of the door handle is something you can not get from one of the usual part supply houses. The point keeps the latch mechanism from slipping as the door handle turns to unlatch the door bolt. Probably your best source is John's offer. When I needed one, I asked fellow members of the forum and they helped me out.
powerwagontim
Member
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John,
I would be interested in getting a couple of the pot metal pieces that the shaft passes through. Drop me a line at distinctiverestoration@yahoo.com with the details.
Thanks,
Tim
I would be interested in getting a couple of the pot metal pieces that the shaft passes through. Drop me a line at distinctiverestoration@yahoo.com with the details.
Thanks,
Tim
Moseso
Jedi Knight
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Luke --
If you can't get that pot metal teardrop thingy, I had good luck just shoving the broken parts of mine back into the hole. The parts get held together inside there, and perform their function perfectly. It's only when they are taken out that they fall apart. You do need to have a majority of the pieces to make this work. Lose too much of it, and you're stuck finding an unobtanium part -- used.
If you can't get that pot metal teardrop thingy, I had good luck just shoving the broken parts of mine back into the hole. The parts get held together inside there, and perform their function perfectly. It's only when they are taken out that they fall apart. You do need to have a majority of the pieces to make this work. Lose too much of it, and you're stuck finding an unobtanium part -- used.
Actually ended up with 2 of the upper shaft of the Adjustable steering and one is installed. If anyone needs one please let me know. also, I was given a non-adjustable by a great Triumph guy so I have one of those as well.
John,
I saw your post and may be in need of the door lock hardware. I am restoring a '62 TR3B in West LA and having a time finding some parts for it. If you have the upper half of an adjustable steering column and any of the capping, please let me know. Jim at hallmark rotating equip dot com
John,
I saw your post and may be in need of the door lock hardware. I am restoring a '62 TR3B in West LA and having a time finding some parts for it. If you have the upper half of an adjustable steering column and any of the capping, please let me know. Jim at hallmark rotating equip dot com
Last edited:
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Those are some really old posts; I'm guessing the photos got lost in one of the upgrades. 'Basil' might have a better idea if you want to drop him a note. My impression is that he doesn't read the forum from day to day.
I'd still like to know what happened to John Nichols, if anyone happens to have heard of him since 2010.
I'd still like to know what happened to John Nichols, if anyone happens to have heard of him since 2010.
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