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TR2/3/3A TR3 Shift Lever Removal

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H

Hatman

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Okay, I'm sure there's a really easy answer for this, but how exactly do you remove the shift lever from a TR3 transmission? Neither the factory manual nor the Clymer's manual provides much insight other than saying "unscrew it." Is that really all there is to it? Double-nut the shift knob threads and have at it? Does the "Cap, change speed lever" need to be removed first? There's a small bolt at the rear, and a through bolt with a nut. I've removed both of those, but still can't quite see how to remove the shift lever.

Thanks in advance.
 
bgbassplyr

bgbassplyr

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Should be able to lift the lever AND the cap straight up. If not, then you will have to pry the cap off of the aluminum. It sometimes becomes adhered due to differences in the metal types (steel/aluminum). Squirt some PB blaster between the cap and aluminum. Maybe apply some heat to the steel cap. Tap gently with a hammer. Rock and rotate the cap with channel-locks. Once you break the bond, cap and lever should come off.
 
TR3driver

TR3driver

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bgbassplyr said:
Should be able to lift the lever AND the cap straight up. If not, then you will have to pry the cap off of the aluminum. It sometimes becomes adhered due to differences in the metal types (steel/aluminum).
Click to expand...
:iagree:

In extreme cases, I've used a big pipe wrench to rotate the cap. Never did really come 'loose', but each rotation would let the cap rise a bit higher under the force of the spring. Ruined the cap, of course, but I had a spare.

PS, only the extremely early shift levers would "unscrew". Your car will have the one-piece lever, which has to lift straight up, once the cap is out of the way.
 
Geo Hahn

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TR3driver said:
...I've used a big pipe wrench to rotate the cap... Ruined the cap, of course...
Click to expand...

Can't remember how I have removed them in the past but I do keep a big strap wrench handy -- perhaps one of those would be kinder than a pipe wrench if rotating is needed.
 
OP
H

Hatman

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Soaked the cap in PB Blaster for a few days. Tonight, I tried 1) a rubber strap wrench; 2) a chisel and a screwdriver under the lower edge; 3) a steel strap wrench (oil filter wrench); 4) a pipe wrench. I didn't go hog wild with the pipe wrench, but none of the above four methods induced one iota of movement. As far as I can tell, this part is NLA from the Big Three suppliers, so I'm hesitant to put much more force into the thing since I can't replace it.

Any other ideas? Any source for a replacement part if it all goes terribly wrong? :wall:
 
bgbassplyr

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Did you try applying some heat first?
 
HerronScott

HerronScott

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Mark,

How about some pictures just in case there's something with yours that we're missing?

Scott
 
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H

Hatman

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I tried heat, but ran out of propane before I could get things nice and toasty. I'll hit it with more heat tonight and snap a couple of pics as well.
 
Geo Hahn

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A heat gun is what I use first before the propane -- not as hot (though it will melt solder) but can get things really heat soaked. Some light tapping all around might help too.
 
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H

Hatman

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Okay, so tonight I went at the shift lever cover again. It had been soaking overnight, again, in PB Blaster. Tried tapping around it with a hammer, twisting it with a big pair of Channel Lock pliers, lifting it by trying to wedge screwdrivers and/or chisels underneath the bottom edge, all with a combination of heat from a propane torch. No dice. No movement at all.

I'm open to ideas, gentlemen. If I could buy another, new or used, I'd go after this one hot and heavy. But without that option, I'm stuck as to how to get this thing off without destroying it.

I snapped a couple of pics:

P3040014-600x448.jpg


P3040017-600x448.jpg


P3040018-600x448.jpg
 
ekamm

ekamm

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Try hot and then cold spray. Then if you an use a strap wrench if you can put you hands on one If not I like a pipe wrench.
 
davidk

davidk

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Hard to tell from the pictures, but is the bolt hole towards the back of the car completely open?
 
Tim Tucker

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Geo Hahn said:
I do keep a big strap wrench handy
Click to expand...

My wife bought me a set of those 3-5 years ago and I have used them to death! I've eaten a lot of crow because of them..:smile: She shows up at Christmas with these two rubber strapped tools from Sears and I tell her: 'Maybe I'll find a use for them'...That translates to: 'What didn't I buy those years ago'.

I would suggest the rubber strap or a rubber jar opener thing...It will come off. If the two adjustment studs and one bolt is out..it should come off. Good Luck!
Tim
 
bgbassplyr

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I see from your pic's that you can access all of the bolts on the shifter. unbolt the entire shifter, 6 bolts ISTR. Some are longer than others so take note. Then put the box in neutral and lift the shifter up until the shift forks clear the box and move to the work bench. Place the shifter upside down on the bench with the shift lever hanging over the edge of the bench. I think you should then be able to tap on the bottom of the shift lever which will transfer this force to the cap and drive it off.
Having the shifter out of the car allows you to work at it from angles not available while in the car.

You didn't say why you wanted to remove the lever, but I am assuming you are pulling the engine and trans as a unit and needed to remove the lever to clear the firewall. If this is the case, removing the shifter as described above, has acheived the goal. Just cover the open top of the gear box to prevent anything from falling into it, and snatch the engine.
You may want to drain the box to prevent spilling trans oil.
Let us know if this works.
 
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H

Hatman

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I've used both steel and rubber strap wrenches, a pipe wrench, Channel Locks, heat, heat with a cold spray, etc. I've removed a lot of frozen parts over the years, so I know most of the tricks. So far none have worked.

Thanks to bgbassplyr for the idea of removing the entire shifter mechanism. I did try banging the shift lever up by sliding a closed-end wrench over the shifter, installing the shift knob nut and pounding up on the wrench with a hammer, but the spring in the shift lever essentially absorbs all the impact. Perhaps if I get it off the car and on the bench I can make a better attempt.

Tim, you've intrigued me with your statement: "If the two adjustment studs and the one bolt is out." Not clear on what you're referring to? There is one bolt, facing the back of the car, that is threaded into the aluminum top cover, and one bolt with a nut that goes all the way through the top cover from side to side. I don't see anything else on the car or in the factory parts book. What are the two "adjustment studs" you refer to? Maybe I'm missing something?
 
TR3driver

TR3driver

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Hatman said:
What are the two "adjustment studs" you refer to? Maybe I'm missing something?
Click to expand...
Nah, he's just got a later gearbox than yours. The studs replaced the long through-bolt used on earlier boxes.
 
S

sp53

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Yes they can be a real bear. Try coming up from the bottom with a dull coal chisel and 30oz hammer. Tap side to side and try to walk it off that way you are not squeezing the cap back on. Once it moves just keep working it up a fuzz at a time.
Steve
 
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H

Hatman

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Here's the wrap-up on the shift lever cap: I spent another few hours this morning fighting with it, and decided it was going to have to die so that the rest of the car (and my sanity) could live. Thankfully, a forum member offered me a spare cap, so I knew I had a replacement lined up. If was definitely stuck on there good -- even after cutting all the way through it, I still basically had to "peel" it off the transmission top.

IMG00054-20100306-1111-600x450.jpg


Thanks to all for the help and advice, and particular thanks to Randall for offering up a used cap.
 
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