jjbunn said:
BTW any suggestions on what I might check next for my rough idle problem (described in another thread)?
You mentioned the chokes were way out of synchronization (which is inconsistent with "running fine when parked") ... have you tried to check that the throttles aren't out of whack as well ? You can get a reasonable estimate by just listening to the hiss at each carb (with the air cleaners off).
Personally, I'd gap the plugs to .025", just to be sure the wide gap isn't a problem. Also, if they look the least bit worn or glazed, put new ones in. Probably not the problem, but if it is, you're going to kick yourself for putting all this time into it and not springing for $20 worth of spark plugs.
You've already changed points, rotor & condensor, right ?
Save the old parts, and if you want, you can put them back in when you get it running right (and save the new ones for your next tune-up). But it also never hurts to have a set of "known pretty good" spares for the (hopefully rare) occasion when the new parts are bad.
Another test I'd try is to feel the radiator as the engine warms up (being careful to keep your hands out of the fan, of course). The body of the radiator should stay cold longer than the engine does, then suddenly get quite warm when the thermostat opens. As soon as that happens, look at the temp gauge. If it is higher than 1/3 scale, then it's wrong for some reason and most likely your engine hasn't really been overheating.
How much can you change the point gap by moving the shaft from side to side (not turning it, just moving side to side) ?
Hmmm, come to think of it, I wonder what cam that engine has in it ? Did you ever figure out if it's the original PI engine ? Others will know better than I, but ISTR reading that the early PI engines had enough cam to lope a bit at idle. And it's entirely possible a DPO has put an even hotter cam in there.
Is there some way you can confirm the tachometer reading ? Old mechanical tachs sometimes read rather high ...
Have you checked the valve clearances yet ? One of our club members even went so far as to buy new carbs, before figuring out his problem was valve lash.
And FWIW, being recently rebuilt with nice shiny parts is no guarantee of no carb problems. I visited someone once who couldn't get his professionally rebuilt carbs to idle ... turned out the rebuilder had forgotten to tighten some of the nuts. Centering the jets and clamping them down (SU carbs, not ZS) made a world of difference.