TR2/3/3A TR3 Clutch Problem HELP

I am in the process of having the clutch master and slave replaced as the clutch quit functioning.
It appears it stoped functioning in the disengaged position. It appears it will not return to the normal position. Is the only solution to replace the pressure plate and clutch assembly? I guess the springs have been conpressed for some time. Maybe 10 years as it has been stored 10 years since the clutch quit. Thanks for any insite.

Hello Kenny,
Did you lose drive when the clutch failed, or could you not put it into gear? If it feels that the clutch is disengaged from looking at the actuating mechanism then the fault is probably with that mechanism. The fork that operates the clutch (i.e. pushes onto the clutch thrust bearing) is bolted to the cross shaft which passes through the bell housing. This bolt sometimes fails so the clutch does not operate.
It still means taking off the gearbox, however.

Alec

Yes I can still put it in any gear. I think I will wait on ordering a new clutch until we disassemble the thing. I hope it is the bolt. Time will tell! Thanks! Can you just pull the drive shaft and trans out?

Hello Kenny,
I'm sorry, but I can't advise you on that, all my Triumph experience is with saloons (Sedans).
You might want to check with who supplies you the clutch if they also have the bolt, as it may be a special. Mine has a taper to locate the fork to the cross shaft.
Good luck.

Alec

Kenny, be aware that the clutch release fork has a bolt that is prone to breakage,It should be replaced along with the release bearing, so you dont have to do the job twice.Lord knows once is plenty!!!
I am puzzled by your description of symptoms, let us all know what you find inside.
MD(mad dog)

Thanks! I hope to know something this week!

Sorry to jump in.. Did you say the unit is stuck engaged? Meaning the clutch is pushed in and every gear is like neutral? Has the clutch been sitting like this for ten years?

If so then the pressure plate should go.. The springs will be shot, and even if it comes loose the uneven spring tension that it now must have will eventually cause the clutch to get hot spots and chatter.

While you have it apart look carefully at the nose extension that the throw out bearing moves in and out on. Excessive wear on this part can cause the collar of the TO bearing to bind, which may be why the clutch stuck in in the first place

Good luck!

Well it was not stuck disengaged ie in neutural. It was stuck in engaged ie gear. The reason I know this is I had driven the car around the yard in first gear to exercise the engine etc. The clutch hydralic mechanisim was stuck as if it were disengaged. It ended up just being held in that position by rust. So the clutch is OK and all is well with a little clean up of all part and the disassembly of the mechanisim. Expensive to have to pull the transmission but needed to clean and lube everything. Thanks for all the help and concern. I should have it back on the road by April.