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New Cam question

Basil

Administrator
Staff member
Boss
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I am rebuilding my Spitfire engine again after two of the pushrods came off the rocker arms. I found my cam had two worn lobs so I am replacing the cam with a hotter "Kent Cam". My question is, what sort of grease do I coat the new cam with? Is there a special cam grease I must use, or can I just use the all-purpose white lythium grease I already have? I know if you don't do it right you will score the cam upon initial start up. Anyone?

Basil
 

Trevor Triumph

Jedi Knight
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Originally posted by Basil:
I am rebuilding my Spitfire engine again after two of the pushrods came off the rocker arms. I found my cam had two worn lobs so I am replacing the cam with a hotter "Kent Cam". My question is, what sort of grease do I coat the new cam with? Is there a special cam grease I must use, or can I just use the all-purpose white lythium grease I already have? I know if you don't do it right you will score the cam upon initial start up. Anyone?

Basil
Basil
If you've ordered a Kent cam, there is a really slick cam lube that I
believe comes with the kit. Half an hour after wiping the grease off my hands they were still slick from the lube- it is apparently some intense stuff. For some further information on cam shafts you might want to e-mail Ted Schumacher at TSI Automotive: tedtsimx@ql.net. I talked
with him at length about which cam to install and how to do it. He suggests filling the sumps with oil and mew filter running the cam, draining the oil and filter and running the engine again. I believe it takes three "fillings" of oil to get the job done. Also be aware there are some pretty crumby lifters being sold. Ted was at Triumphest at Ventura Beach CA last weekend. Wow, there were some
outstanding Triumphs there!!! Trevor
 
OP
Basil

Basil

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Originally posted by Trevor Triumph:
Basil
If you've ordered a Kent cam, there is a really slick cam lube that I
believe comes with the kit. Half an hour after wiping the grease off my hands they were still slick from the lube- it is apparently some intense stuff. For some further information on cam shafts you might want to e-mail Ted Schumacher at TSI Automotive: tedtsimx@ql.net. I talked
with him at length about which cam to install and how to do it. He suggests filling the sumps with oil and mew filter running the cam, draining the oil and filter and running the engine again. I believe it takes three "fillings" of oil to get the job done. Also be aware there are some pretty crumby lifters being sold. Ted was at Triumphest at Ventura Beach CA last weekend. Wow, there were some
outstanding Triumphs there!!! Trevor


Believe it or not, my cam didn't come with any lube, so I just bought some assembly lube at NAPA. I don't suppose you have some pics from the Triumphfest you could post?
(They need to reside on a server so you can point to them with the [ IMG ] [ /IMG ] command. Otherwise, if you have some you can email them to me and I could post them.

Thanks,
Basil



[This message has been edited by Basil (edited 10-25-2001).]
 

wedge professor

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Hi New Mexico, My bucolic village of Springtown in upper Bucks County, the 3rd county formed by William Penn [before the English even knew of the area west of the Mississippi River] was the home to sportscar hillclimb races in the late 50s and early 60s. Roger Penske RS Porche; Hal Keck 427SC Cobra (he was 1st in class & 3rd overall in 24 hours of DAytona 1965 in one of Shelby's Daytona Coupes #13). I have original programs. Holberts Porche is 19 miles south on route 611, the elder was one of the founders of the SCCA. I have a collection of 4 TR8s and three Rover 3500SD1s and tons of V8s and parts supplies... was first to sell mc stuff inside the track at Daytona during Cycleweek in 1973; bought the last TR8 on the East Coast Oct.1981, network thru world on the aluminum V8/wedges; developed coilover systems that use only heim/rose joints -- no sloppy rubber ones. I autocrosss, dragrace, Hillclimb, and tour as in Hot Rod Magazine East Coast Power Tour = 3528 milews in 1998 [as is cc of V8]! Why use foreign cams the best in the world are here in the cradle of liberty and go faster shops/factories. Penske had Ilmore design the Indy engines but uses the best parts and has his main shops here in Reading Pennsylvania! Crane is the world's largest, most technically advanced, and make all the blanks for most NAmerica Grinders, is owned by the employees, is across the street from the track in Daytona. Crane technical advice [I personally visited in '98 as a personal subtour while in Daytona with the 300+ cars on tour] Performance Consultant: 386-258-6174 AND I can get em wholesale 4 u if you ask! C.Bruce
Strock, CBS distributing, 3175 Church Street, Springtown, PA, USA 18081-0490 610-346-7304 -7836 -8555FAX Cheers, Bruce Havin fun, fun, fun in the wedge world ...going zoom>>>> ZOOoom>>>>>> ZOOOOOMM>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> [Comp Cams, Crower, Isky, and Lunati are also good and better than overseas -- one of the reasons we win all the wars -- better stuff/hardware!]
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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Bruce,
What does any of your above post have to to with the topic at hand. All you are doing is using these forums to promote your "products" plus some inane rambling. You have contributed very little of real value so far.
D
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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Basil, I'll second Trevor's comment about the lifters. I wiped a lobe off a brand new cam in the 1500 Spit "F" Prod car, due to a soft lifter. Dema Elgin at Elgin Cams told me that he had gotten something like 300 new lifters, and threw 100 of them away, as they were soft. If you are using the lifters supplied by Kent, you should be OK, but make sure the inside of them is clean. I've seen them with sand, or some abrasive residue left in them. Really bad for the bearings!
If you have access to a Rockwell tester, Dema told me that the lifter face should be a minimum of 51 on the Rockwell "C" scale.
Hope we have saved you some possible grief.
Jeff

[ 09-18-2003: Message edited by: Bugeye58 ]</p>
 

Mark Beiser

Jedi Warrior
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dave Russell:
Bruce,
What does any of your above post have to to with the topic at hand. All you are doing is using these forums to promote your "products" plus some inane rambling. You have contributed very little of real value so far.
D
<hr></blockquote>

There are several people, including me, that are new to this forum that are refugees from another forum that "wedge professor" basicly rendered useless.

In addition to his constant self promotion and name dropping, he always includes advertising for products he suposedly sells.

When he is wrong, or gives bad advice about something, and the error is pointed out, he usually becomes abusive and insulting of the person that corrected him.

The best bet is to not even bother reading anything that has its name by it.
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
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Basil,
The contact pressure between cam & lifters is very high. Especially before the high spots on cam & lifters are bedded in. You need to lube the cam & lifters with a lube that can withstand very high contact pressures. Molybdenum disulfide (moly) is the lube of choice. Many of the "better" cam manufacturers/grinders supply a tube of moly with instructions to USE it. & how to break in the cam.

The second item is cam break in. No prolonged low speed cranking/idling for the first 20 to 30 minutes. On the first start, rev the engine to 2000 rpm or so & keep it there for the 20 minutes. This gives the much needed extra splash lubrication to the cam & lifters during the first critical minutes of cam life. Most cams are ruined by improper lube/break in in the first few minutes of running.

Needless to say, the static timing, fuel mixture, oil & coolant leaks must be dealt with before the first start.

Some folks may disagree, & depending on the cam & lifter metallurgy may get away with lesser measures, but why take a chance.
D
 

rpm

Freshman Member
Offline
Basil,

I have several different types of cam lube if you need some.
I'm in Albuquerque,872-2313

Ron
 
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