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Todays question - wiring

JPSmit

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First a confession. Earlier this fall I let a significant amount of smoke out of the wiring. I was changing the plugs and jammed the socket extension against the nut on the back of the alternator - and of course the battery was connected.
smilie9.gif


I have repaired everything and am reconnecting things - needless to say it all came apart in a hurry!

First of all, 1976 Midget, 1500 California car. It has the factory electronic ignition.

I have a Bosch Blue coil with the external resistor bypassed.

On the positive side of the coil I have three wires. 2 are white/light green and 1 is white. The white wire goes to the electronic ignition box.

On the negative side I have 2 white/ black wires.

I was connecting one of the wires and found a third white/black wire. This wire also goes to the factory electronic ignition.

So, where does this wire go?

Also (Bonus question) there is a three pronged female plug with a white/ black wire and a white/blue wire and a white wire. According to the schematic this 'plugs' into the distributer - but I presume this has been supplemented by the electronic ignition and is therefore just hanging loose. (I am second guessing myself at this point)

BTW the electronic ignition is not part of any schematic I can see.

Another way of asking the question is this - if you have a 1500 are there two wires or three on the negative side of the coil?

thanks all
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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well the good news is that the car starts again. phew.

Unfortunately it isn't charging. and the alternator light isn't going out.

The car is a 1500 but I have a Delco alternator. To recap I got a socket extension stuck against the bolt with the brown wire and fried the wire.

So, what I am mostly asking is whether if it is possible that I did something inside the alternator or more likely that I need to be looking at the car wiring itself.

thoughts? thanks!
 

LarryK

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Check the recitier board in alternator.
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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LarryK

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It can be done by a experienced old time mechanic. Most RnR now. Learned over the years on all makes. Look on youtube for tutorials.
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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It can be done by a experienced old time mechanic. Most RnR now. Learned over the years on all makes. Look on youtube for tutorials.

Talked to my mechanic today and he said - just replace it. Got a shiny new one ready to go in, the old one is already out and given to my mechanic for the core. They aren't a lot of money and hopefully tomorrow all is working. Thanks though!

(as an aside the woman ahead of me cashing out paid more for an OEM headlight bulb than I paid for the alternator - and it wasn't a fancy car!)
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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Just wanted to update - well because.

Car is running again, really just in time to go into storage. I got the new alternator installed but, it wouldn't charge. Much pondering later I realized that the solenoid was not wired properly (remember everything got unplugged quickly post fire!) Sorted that and all is good. I am now doing some final fettling to get it right - one thing of which was to replace the ground battery cable. I did and could not get the clamp tight enough on the battery. Bought 'caps' and they were too big as well, so, finally went back to my original setup (with the new cable) The original setup had a disconnect switch which ended up being perfect bridge between the two.

Curiously, I have had the disconnect switch for at least a decade (pic below). It took until yesterday when I reinstalled it to realize that I had had it hooked up wrong that whole time. I presumed the bottom plate (to the ground wire) drew up to the top plate (the battery) making the connection. Only yesterday did I compute that it is actually the bolt that lifts off the top plate breaking the connection - needless to say it still worked but, these cars never fail to amaze and instruct.

switch.jpg
 

LarryK

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I have this type on all my cars, boat and rv. Been using for years. Good theft preventive too.
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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I have this type on all my cars, boat and rv. Been using for years. Good theft preventive too.

agreed! Especially if you use it right! :grin:
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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I made the same mistake and ruined a perfectly good one. Bought another one and its been fine ever since.

very relieved to hear this - we all know that misery loves company but so does idiocy :jester: :cheers:
 
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JPSmit

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Another update - a happy one. The alternator works and the car starts and runs fine - charges as it should. Unfortunately every time I hit a pothole there was a loud bang in the rear end. Got it on a jack, got a second set of eyes (from within my bubble I hasten to add) and relatively quickly realized I had not mounted the shock properly. 10 minutes later and all is well. No trying to decide whether to put it in storage for the next three months or just keep it in the garage and try to sort the windshield wiper motor.

So what have we learned?

1. Rebuilt shocks have transformed the ride. Obviously it still isn't nearly like a modern car but, getting the shocks rebuilt has made a much bigger difference than I would have imagined.

2. When you test drive your Midget with the top down on the 28th of December while snow is falling you get many bemused glances (and lots of smiles and waves)

:cheers:
 

Jim_Gruber

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JP glad to hear you got things working. So you took care of the rear, now you need to do the same for the Front.
 

Madflyer

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OK it is true that some of us have been working on our LBC for many years and found we can easily make our own problems. A few notes always us a cut-out on your battery, They may only be 12 volts but they are up to 50 plus AMPS things like a wedding ring or tool can be costly as you noted. As you set your car for some down time use battery cut-out switch and use a battery tender while parked. add a full tank of fuel and additive. On the TR6 number one cyl is also next to Alt. I put a rubber cup over the hot stud. That stud is always hot unless battery is off.
There is always a new Thread about some guy that has his car down for a year or more and wants to know why it does not start or run. Todays gas is terrible drain it if posable and carbs also maybe even a new fuel filter after start up. Madflyer
 
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JPSmit

JPSmit

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OK it is true that some of us have been working on our LBC for many years and found we can easily make our own problems. A few notes always us a cut-out on your battery, They may only be 12 volts but they are up to 50 plus AMPS things like a wedding ring or tool can be costly as you noted. As you set your car for some down time use battery cut-out switch and use a battery tender while parked. add a full tank of fuel and additive. On the TR6 number one cyl is also next to Alt. I put a rubber cup over the hot stud. That stud is always hot unless battery is off.
There is always a new Thread about some guy that has his car down for a year or more and wants to know why it does not start or run. Todays gas is terrible drain it if posable and carbs also maybe even a new fuel filter after start up. Madflyer

Good advice! and yes definitely a cap for the hot wire on the alternator. This time I at least clocked the the alternator so the wires are further away - and the brown wire to the solenoid will not be wrapped into the wire harness.

When the car goes into storage it is in a condo parking garage so no plug for battery tender. I actually remove the battery and bring it home. I only run shell gold so no ethanol - and add stabil even though a recent review says it doesn't really make a difference.

still haven't quite made my mind up but, we will see. thanks all!
 
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