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TR2/3/3A Oil pressure gauge removal

sp53

Yoda
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I noticed my oil gauge is sticking. The car only has few hours on the engine, so I am not sure what to think. If I tap the glass, the gauge falls back. Anyways I do not trust it.

Now-- Oil pressure gauge removal, every time I remove a stock oil gauge I find it difficult and try and use strong words as a magic incantation. I usually reach up under the dash after I remove the big gauge which is a pain and fight the little knurled nuts and brackets on both gauges then deal with the metal line on back of the oil gauge always fearing I am going to break something like the temp gauge. How do others do this? I was thinking remove a big gauge and then maybe I would remove the flex line on the firewall and try and push the oil gauge out of the dash panel a far as it would go after I got the knurled nuts off and try removing the gauge hard line that way.
 

CJD

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Same here. The center instrument panel will pull out just far enough to access the oil line nut. If you pull the big gage you can go in that way, but it's a bit more fiddly. Remember there are 4 knurled nuts for the center cluster and one on the oil gage.
 

6TTR3A

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I've never found an easy way to do this. I go with remove the big gauge, remove the flex line on the engine side like you said. I go one step further & replace the stock line with one that's flex all the way..not stock but it simplifies the reattachment hassle. I also replace the leather bushing with a #6 nylon one. Fixing the sticky pointer on the gauge is another whole set of problems.
Frank
 
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sp53

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I embellished some of the ideas I received about the oil gauge and what a pain it is to remove. I undid the oil line at the flex hose and put a T fitting in line with a new gauge and a stock gauge and ran the line through a hole above the glove box. I wanted to check the calibration and plus test my small collection of stock gauges for crazy behavior. I have one gauge that works fine for about a ½ hour and then pressure drops to zero at idle. The problem I had with my stock gauges is I forgot which one came with the project and which ones work best. I thought the gauge I put in worked fine, but it would stick and stayed at about 55psi and when shut off, I would have to tap the glass to have the needle fall back. The overall plan actually worked well except I had a small oil leak.

To aid with another thread, I drove the car around the block a few times to check the speedo. It worked great. It probably matches the gears right. The gauges on this car were very clean. I bought the car out of an old airplane hangar in Port Orchard which is kinda out in the sticks. In many ways, it was an old rust bucket, but it had original paint and much of the interior was stock. I was surprised when I took the seat covers off because the original seat covers were underneath. They have a very deep texture in vinyl and leather plus actually were in good shape for their age.
 

Jim_Stevens

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I myself pull the whole cluster, but you need the glovebox removed to get to the two top wing nuts.
 

TRopic6

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Here's what it looks like on the inside; maybe you can see what is causing the hang-up. You can alter the reading by moving where the wire acts on the arm that moves the needle. P1110317.jpg
 
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sp53

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Thanks Steve, I still have the glove box out and I will see how well I can get in there that way. Taking the big gauge out is a pain also because of steering brackets. Tropic 6-- yes the gauge is probably rubbing somewhere inside. It looks like maybe right at the top where the needle 90ies down to the face; it could be touching the face there. The fuel and temp have bout an 1/8 of open air there. Have you ever tried to calibrate one by bending the needle with the glass off and diving? I will try and fix it if I cannot find a better working gauge.

The gauge I put in unison with the new gauge seems to work well--- idles a 50 and moves up to 70psi at like 2Kup. That is what the new gauge does, so the motor is probably fine with pressure. Does the air just work its way out of the line; it must.

It is difficult to see the little red needle on the new gauge in the picture, but it works good. My fear is the gauge I have hooked up in unison with the new gauge might be the gauge that falls to zero after a long drive. I used to have notes with these gauges, but I did something and there is only one with a note. I must have figured I would remember??? I think I will license and insure this car next month and drive it more to test the other oil gauges to find the best one. I really like the in line T fitting I put in, but need to do something about the leak.
 

CJD

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Looks wonderful, Steve. It looks like you'll be driving this spring!

I just used the rubber tip on my air hose to test the pressure gage. You can dial the pressure wherever you need to to calibrate the car gage. Air in the line doesn't hurt anything...it acts like a tiny accumulator.
 
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sp53

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Good idea John, I guess a psi is psi no matter how you slice it. I see a vision of me driving down the road with my hands off the wheel bending that little tiny dial. However, I must say in a discussion years ago on the forum with Geo, he wrote about calibrating a speedo driving down the road with the glass off and with I think his wife next to him in another car to check the calibration
 

karls59tr

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Good idea John, I guess a psi is psi no matter how you slice it. I see a vision of me driving down the road with my hands off the wheel bending that little tiny dial. However, I must say in a discussion years ago on the forum with Geo, he wrote about calibrating a speedo driving down the road with the glass off and with I think his wife next to him in another car to check the calibration

I'd like to try that calibrating the speedo with the glass off method. Do you have a link to that post?
 
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