Clutch fork lever

Hi Can anyone tell me how to remove the tapered pin that keeps the clutch release fork in place with the fork lever shaft. Which way do I need to tap it for it to come out?

Thanks
Mark

Mark,

The tapered pin's larger diameter is on the flywheel side. There's a hole on the rear side of the bell housing that you can put a punch through. Clamp the lever arm so it's perpendicular to the punch and so it won't rotate. I've had mixed results knocking the pin out.

Cheers,
Bob

BobHaskell said:

Mark,

The tapered pin's larger diameter is on the flywheel side. There's a hole on the rear side of the bell housing that you can put a punch through. Clamp the lever arm so it's perpendicular to the punch and so it won't rotate. I've had mixed results knocking the pin out.

Cheers,
Bob

Click to expand...

I've been watching this thread as I was just about to post the same question. If you've had 'mixed results' knocking them out, is there any alternative? Seems the fork has to be removed to get to one of the bolts attaching the ball housing to the 'box.

Thanks.

Jack T said:

I've been watching this thread as I was just about to post the same question. If you've had 'mixed results' knocking them out, is there any alternative? Seems the fork has to be removed to get to one of the bolts attaching the ball housing to the 'box.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

1) Drill it out. 2) Nope. I've separated the box a couple times w/o removing the fork; wobble extensions help IIRC.

Bob_Spidell said:

1) Drill it out. 2) Nope. I've separated the box a couple times w/o removing the fork; wobble extensions help IIRC.

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I have to replace the bushings for the fork rod, so the tapered pin has to come out.

Thanks. I wasn't sure which way to go. I might try a bit of heat too.

I don't remember there being an issue removing the bell housing from the gearbox, but it's been a while. When using heat, keep an eye on the plastic washers on either side of the pivot arm. I don't know if they're available new. I made a couple on my metal lathe.

BobHaskell said:

... When using heat, keep an eye on the plastic washers on either side of the pivot arm. I don't know if they're available new. I made a couple on my metal lathe.

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Moss, at least, doesn't have the plastic bushings. BCS may have them, but they should be reusable.

I did this a couple years ago, and my memory's a little hazy, but IIRC:

- Moss has the shaft and the bushes separate, for about $46 total, but they don't sell the tapered pin separate
- Moss has a kit, that includes the tapered pin, for about $60, but the bushes weren't quite right, nor was the tapered pin (and, I think, when I drilled the old pin out I opened up the hole a little; I'm not sure I didn't just put a roll pin in there and called it a day)

Yep, I ended up buying both, because I bunged a bush from the kit, so bought the bushes and shaft separate. I didn't like the way the parts from the kit fit, but don't remember exactly why (I think the bushes were shorter than the original or the separate pieces).

Note carefully how this mechanism comes apart, as there's a sequence to getting it back together. The hole for the bush on the bottom is a blind hole, so you want to drift it in first before you put the bush in the top end (don't forget the plastic spacers).

The shaft has a threaded hole on the top, and it should have a cheesehead screw in it. I stared at it for hours trying to figure out what the purpose of these are (besides being some sort of sick Limey joke ). Finally decided the screw should be removed, or backed out a little so you can get a puller on it, or thread a puller into the shaft to extract it.

Of course, replace the boot on the shaft, and I found a plastic hole plug to fit the hole in the bell housing as it seems dust can get in though it.

I beat on mine for two days before I finally gave up. My mechanic said he just cuts the head flush and then drills it out. He said most of them are seized tight and if you cannot get a pin to knock it out from the back end (grind flush first) the only option is drill. It is one of the most difficult tasks IMHO

Kainopong said:

I beat on mine for two days before I finally gave up. ...

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Same here. IIRC, you can't smack it as much as you like--esp. after pounding on it for hours--because I believe it's possible to fracture its aluminum housing. Then, you'd be in a world of hurt.

Drilling most of it out weakens it enough to be driven out with a pin-punch.

Well some 6 years ago I had a similar problem, the bearings were worn. Like you guys I spent a lot of time getting nowhere so I took the whole bell housing to Rawles and let Rob have a go at it.

It was the original type mild steel pin that is tapered and he went about it in a totally different way - he drove the shaft itself out with several judicious blows of a hammer breaking the pin in two places then removed the remnants of the pin from the different parts with a drift. The bushes were installed and a roll pin was put back in to lock the shaft. It is to be noted that Rob said that you can not use this method when a spring steel roll pin has been used and that you do not spend time pounding on the shaft as you could distress the aluminium.



Bob