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Grose valves / Tri-carb

  • Thread starter Deleted member 21878
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Deleted member 21878

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when putting my carbs together, i switched over to Grose valves in the float chambers.

when trying to install my valves they would not allow me to put a washer under the valve. when i did, the valve (thicker than a normal needle valve) would keep the pin for the float from being able to slide in. i ran them up tight and all seemed well. until... i fixed my fuel line leak. (see older thread)

maybe the extra pressure or the fact the bigger leak would bleed off the pressure... now this leak. this is an odd leak in a way. the valve cuts off the gas and only leaks when the fuel pump runs for a bit, like running the car. if i just turned on the key, let the pressure pump up and let it sit, no leak. but when running the car, i was getting enough extra fuel to eventually come out the overflow. And it would continue until the pressure bled off. i was thinking i kept getting dirt in the valve or it was bad.

in other words, i thought the leak was thru the valve but it seems it was around the valve. after pulling the valve back out a couple of time and trying it, i installed it with aviation sealant around the base. seems to have fixed the issue.

just FYI. i know i have read threads where people were complaining about these valves leaking. i wonder if they had the same issue of leaking around the valve not thru it.
 

Keoke

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The moly problem I have had with these valves s when I failed to wash them in acetone prior to installation, they have a corrosion protection cover on them when new.?
 

steveg

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DD - on one of the earlier threads, there's a link to Joe Curto's videos on SU carbs. He discusses the different float bowl covers and floats at great length. These issues pertain directly to your HS carbs. There are issues with the height of float needles and using the correct floats with the correct float bowl covers.

I question the desirability of any kind of sealant under the valve. Leakage there would be miniscule and you could gum things up with the sealant.

Also neither Curto nor Tom Bryant recommend Grose valves anymore - they like the viton-tipped stock design. Curto makes these and sells them to Moss. He also sells shim kits for adjustment of float level on HS carbs.

Addendum: link -
https://joecurto.com/hs-float-bowls
 
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Steve, i read something a while back on the covers. i realized there was a difference when i ordered a new cover for the middle carb from SU. then started doing some research. like wise i have read a few articles on other sites about concerns with the Grose valves... after i installed them of course... they were supposed to be an upgrade..

i will read thru the link above. thanks for that.

the amount of sealant i used was just painted on and very thin for just the reason you stated. i am sure none could get out to the fuel. if indeed, my leak was happening as i think, (i will keep checking) it can leak a lot of fuel. i had a puddle on the floor.

i am getting some needle valves just in case i have any more issues. at that point they will be replaced. one thing about the SU carbs is they are not hard to change. i may even do it anyway if i need something to do one morning.

thanks for the info.
 
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Steve,
you were absolutely on the money here. while working on the PCV system, i heard this sizzling after shutoff. yup, now my middle carb was leaking. always scary since it drips right over the exhaust.

so i pulled that cover, and the third one since that short hose is such a pain. replaced both with needle valves. today i will change the front one also.

feel like i should send a note to Moss..
 

Bob_Spidell

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Wonder what happened? I put a set of Grose Jets in my BJ8 over 30 years and 150K miles ago and they've been flawless. Tried a pair my BN2 a few years ago and the little ball on the top kept sticking in its seat.
 

Novamonte

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Did you wash them with carb cleaner before they were installed? There are numerous posts here saying that the newer Grose valves have a coating on the ball that needs to be removed to avoid sticking.
 

Bob_Spidell

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Did you wash them with carb cleaner before they were installed? There are numerous posts here saying that the newer Grose valves have a coating on the ball that needs to be removed to avoid sticking.

No, I didn't, but it seems like a good idea. I read this forum (at least) daily, and don't recall reading that, but it certainly could have expired in my memory banks. I know I didn't do that for the ones in the BJ8, maybe the coating is a more recent change.

Also: "... neither Curto nor Tom Bryant recommend Grose valves anymore;' you'd think these experts would still recommend them if all it took was some cleaning before installation (but maybe they didn't get the memo). I may give them another try someday; Viton-tipped or not, needle valves sometimes stick (I think I've got brass-tipped ones in the BN2).
 
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i have also read the same complaints on the TR6 forum. Most of them have gone back to needle valves as well.

the one guy who rebuilds carbs for most of the members, including mine, was saying he was not using Grose valves anymore... then recently he was also saying he was having trouble with the needle valves in his own car.

guess nothing is perfect.

but my Grose valves have been in and wokring for a year now. no leaks before that i know of. So not sure why now? you would think they would be clean by now. i wondered if the design may not work as well for people who let their cars sit over longer periods at a time. Like most of us during the winter.

either way i am back to needle valves in all three carbs. will give them a try for a while. i also changed my filter element to a new one.
 

steveg

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Joe Curto has videos discussing the float bowl covers and needle valves. With some configurations, it's possible to get too much float drop. I can see where the needle could become stuck-cocked in that case.

I bought my rebuilt HD8s 10 years ago with original Grose valves. AFAIK, they always worked perfectly. I switched to Curto's viton-tipped needles for the h*ll of it. PS, I bought the needles from Tom's Toys - so Moss is selling some stuff made by Curto.
 

Bob_Spidell

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Joe Curto has videos discussing the float bowl covers and needle valves. With some configurations, it's possible to get too much float drop. I can see where the needle could become stuck-cocked in that case.

I bought my rebuilt HD8s 10 years ago with original Grose valves. AFAIK, they always worked perfectly. I switched to Curto's viton-tipped needles for the h*ll of it. PS, I bought the needles from Tom's Toys - so Moss is selling some stuff made by Curto.

On all the SUs I've seen (6), the float control lever--not sure that's what it's called--has a little tab on the end that should control how far it drops.

Maybe you can sell those 'good' Grose Jets ;)
 

steveg

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On all the SUs I've seen (6), the float control lever--not sure that's what it's called--has a little tab on the end that should control how far it drops.

Maybe you can sell those 'good' Grose Jets ;)

Evidently there are a couple of styles of float lever and if a certain combination of lever and bowl cover is used, the lever can hang down too far.

Going to save the Grose's in case the viton needles aren't all they're cracked up to be.
 
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