TR2/3/3A Split Braking System

Greetings,
I searched for additions and modifications to split the TR3 brakes into two systems, but can't find anything.
I'm interested in something like the race car pictured below.
Ideas and sources of parts?
Thanks in advance!

There are a lot of split system M/C's in wreckers yards off different cars, you may find a compact one that can be adapted to suit your TR3 and still look OK.

That photo looks special fabrication to me. Even the pedal spacing is custom.

Tony Drews https://www.tonydrews.com/BrakesDualCircuit/Dual_Circuit_Brakes.htm
and Racetorations https://www.racetorations.co.uk/tri...it-dual-brake-master-cylinder-tr3-3a-lhd-p504
both have a dual circuit system — pretty sure that Revington does also.
Seems like a good idea (or a great one if you’re racing) as long as originality isn’t a major concern.

Worth noting, perhaps, that with two MCs in tandem like that, the pedal becomes a lot harder. It would be twice, except you can find MCs with a slightly smaller bore.

Also FWIW, if you just split front/rear, you don't gain much. The rear brakes by themselves don't do much, and the TR3 handbrake has no trouble activating them. A diagonal split would give you better brakes if one side fails; but of course is a lot more work to implement.

I am not seeing the advantages of that system unless you are racing. I can see the advantages of adapting a dual braking system such as TR6 or as Malbaby says about adapting something with power for use and reliability.

I fabricated a system based pretty much on what Revington is selling. I initially used two 5/8" bore masters in place of the single 3/4" bore single original. The pedal was a little firmer than with the single cylinder. Willwood recently came out with Girling type M/Cs with 1/2" bores. I installed two of those, and the pedal is now actually a bit lighter than with the single 3/4" cylinder. Pedal travel is a bit more, but not enough to be disconcerting. If you buy or put together a system, I would make sure that you use the 1/2" bore cylinders. The original TR3 system is stiff enough, you don't need to make it stiffer. Revington supplies 5/8" cylinders.

I only did it because well, it seemed like a neat project. In the second picture, I changed the dual circuit reservoir. Initially, I used the original can for the dual circuit, but the look of the piece of wood really bothered me. :wink-new:

The reason that they use a dual system on race cars, is so that they can balance the bias front to rear. In the first picture shown, you can see between the two masters is the mechanism that allows you to do that on the fly. I have a balance bar like that, but didn't install it because as it is now, the fronts and the rears pretty much lock up at the same time.

Racetorations in the UK also offer a dual system. Looks identical to that offered by Revington, only not quite as expensive.

https://www.racetorations.co.uk/tri...it-dual-brake-master-cylinder-tr3-3a-lhd-p504

Thanks to all who have provided advice and links to solutions. I looked and couldn't find it on Racetorations.
I am not racing the car, but do participate in SCCA autocrosses in the H Street or Heritage Classic Street classes.
The current brakes work very well - later rear axle with larger drums and the Toyota light truck caliper mod on the front.
My thought was for the future when a master cylinder went bad, it would be an opportunity to split the systems.
Art, I like what you did and would be up to that project except for the plumbing, especially downstream from the MC's. The kits come with it all (maybe).
Again, thanks to all who spoke up! BCF is the greatest!