Syn oil

I just watched the video on synthetic oil. They stated it can last twice as long as dino oil and does a better job of lubricating as the molecules are finer. I'm okay with that but one of the purposes of oil is to to capture waste carbon and junk from the engine to be removed in the oil filter and drained oil. So we should still do frequent filter changes to eliminate the crud. If dino is cheaper and the filter captures stuff to necessary to be removed what is the advantage to using synthetic?

Exactly.

Mineral oil is fine and does a good job but science has advanced and synthetic oils are better. They aren’t a necessity so no need to shell out more if you don’t want to. I use Mobil 1 10w 50 which has the
added benefit of being easier to spin up when cold starting.

Hi All,

I agree with Derek and use Mobil 1 15W50 (10W50 is not available in the U.S.). It seems to stay cleaner longer then conventional oils and also provides quicker and easier oil distribution and pressure in cold weather startups. Also, the price seem less expensive then what I had been paying for good 20W50 conventional oils in the past. Since I no longer put many annual miles on my Healey and since using engineered synthetic oils that maintain their additive characteristics and lubricating for much longer periods then conventional oils, I have significantly reduced costs by reducing the number of annual changes to 1.

All in all, I find Mobile 1 15W50 to be better for cold starts, long lasting, and far less expensive then the good conventional oils I used in the past.
Just my opinion,

Ray(64BJ8P1)

Also the syn oil molecular weight is very iniform as it is "built" from similar MW petroleum as opposed be being "cracked" from crude. This means there are no lights that quickly burn off, hence longer life and higher operating temperatures without breakdown.

I've run Mobil One in my '92 Porsche 968 for years. It now has about 165,000 miles on it and run perfectly. However, the proprietor of the Jacksonville, FL, shop that specializes in Ferrari and Porsche cars told me that I shouldn't have done that. His reasoning, I think, is that the seals, etc., used on vintage Porsches seem to start leaking with the use of synthetics. Our driveway pavers are certainly testimony to that problem. Once I encouraged my wife to get a new car, the Porsche was relegated to an outdoor parking spot where it spends its days under a cover, with a sizable, but not sizable enough, drip tray under it. The second garage space is devoted to my Healey, of course. I understand that Porsches have been delivered with Mobil One synthetic in the engines for years, but I don't think I would consider using it in a Healey. There is no doubt in my mind that it is a superior lubricant, however.

I am not disputing the superior lubricating of syn oil. I am questioning the frequency of oil filter replacement. Don't we need to get the "dirt" trapped in the filter out?

Hi All,

Don't we need to get the "dirt" trapped in the filter out?​

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Yes, dirt, and more important, HARD bits of metal that have been collected in the filter and in the sump should be eliminated as soon as possible. However, I would be more concerned with the contaminants remaining in the lubricant flow or in the pan sediment that what is already trapped in the filter. When changing my Mobile 1, I have noticed the oil seems more transparent and lighter in color after a year of use then I have found when using conventional oil for the 3 summer months.

Yes, more frequent changes of engine lubricants and filters seems a good thing to do … especially if you noticed bits of metal in your last change. However, if all seems normal and no noticeable bits have been found over a number of past changes, I would feel reasonably confident that oil and filter changes could be extended.

In my case, I am still using an original type fiber filter (although I am now considering a spin-on with a check valve) and noticed the filter seems cleaner when changing Mobile 1. Also, when examining the used synthetic oil, I have found no bits of concern as yet. In the Spring, I intend to drop the pan and carefully examine and any sediment for any metal contaminants. The results of this valuation will determine if I continue on annual lubricant/filter changes or drop back to a more frequent periodic (due to low mileage use) change.

Again, just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Unless it is blocking the flow, if the dirt is trapped in the filter, it's not harming the engine.

re: "... I have noticed the oil seems more transparent and lighter in color after a year of use then I have found when using conventional oil for the 3 summer months"

Of course, this could mean the syn oil isn't scavenging combustion byproducts as well as the conventional oil (oil should get dark, eventually, if it's doing its job). When Mobil 1 was first used in aircraft engines it was found--the hard way--that this was the case; but the byproduct was elemental lead and lead compounds which gunked-up the ring lands, which shouldn't be an issue using unleaded fuel. Mobil paid some aircraft owners for rebuilds ($20K and up).

re: "... I intend to drop the pan and carefully examine and any sediment for any metal contaminants"

Good idea, but another thing to do is check the filter; of course, it's a bit more difficult with spin-ons but tools are available (this is SOP for aircraft engines).

When I had my BJ8 engine rebuilt, I couldn't follow a 'normal' break-in regimen; e.g. oil changes at 1K, 4K miles, etc. I only put 250 of the recommended 500 miles on the break-in oil before I cracked the pan and had to replace it. I filled the 'new' pan with Valvoline 20W-50--and a bottle of GM EOS for extra ZDDP--and did over 5,000 miles on a single trip. Of course, this is the best usage for an engine; long daily, semi-hard runs, but the oil analysis came back all positive.

Given the way most of us drive our Healeys--day trips and longer runs--I feel a once-a-year oil change is fine. My Mustang's owner's manual recommends up to 7,500 miles on its semi-syn unless it's 'extreme' usage.

IMO a magnetic drain plug is an inexpensive good idea. I also put one or two super magnets on my spin-on oil filter.

John Turney said:

Unless it is blocking the flow, if the dirt is trapped in the filter, it's not harming the engine.

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Ditto....

Me and Steve G channel the same thoughts: I put a rare earth magnet on the oil filter lowest point as well as one on the drain plug on all of our vehicles. Now, a question and a thought:
Q: I'm tending to use Valvoline VR1 to ensure adequate ZDDP; what is the situation with synthetics?
T (thought): I've got synthetic in one of our vehicles (and can't remember which) that doesn't get a lot of miles; I figure I'll change the filter annually and the oil every second year. No researched logic here, but it feels right. Doug