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Nash Metroplitan trans swap?

doc50

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I want to put a different trans in my '58 Met, so I can flat tow it.

Does anyone know who makes a conversion kit that will allow me to do that easily? My friend put a Toyota W58, 5 spd trans in his TR3 and it fit like a glove. Surely there must be something out there.

Thank.

Thom 1958

Nash Metropolitan, 'Chuckles'
1973 MG Midget, 'Midge'
 
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doc50

doc50

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I did not know of them. Thank you. I just emailed the Southern California Metropolitan Club, hoping to also hear back from them.

BTW: this may be more of an MGA tranny swap, as the engine is 1500 MGA. I want the floor shift, so that will be straight forward, if the geometry fits. I guess I'm looking for anyone who has heard of or done an MGA trans swap.

Thom

1958 Nash Metro, 'Chuckles'
1973 MG Midget, 'Midge'
 

dklawson

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Maybe not an MGA gearbox....

After seeing your post I did a little searching and found that other Met owners had found certain (less common in the U.S.) Austin gearboxes are a direct fit down to the rear gearbox mount. However, that won't help you... trading one rare gearbox for a probably similar and less common gearbox.

Hopefully the folks on the forum Harold posted the link to will have useful suggestions.
 
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doc50

doc50

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Just got an email from a Met Club member who has flat towed his car all over the country with no troubles. I think life may have just gotten better! I never even considered that I could do that.
After all, the worst that could happen is I ruin the trans, have to tow it home anyway and THEN need to replace it. I was told my TR3 andf MG Midget would ruin the trans on a flat tow, so I've always assumed that was the case.

Thanks for your time and efforts.

Thom

1958 Nash Met
 

Harold

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remove the drive shaft would be the best solution for a flat tow--assuming you can when you want to take it home--the other problem is that it is
illegal to tow a car (2 wheels or 4 wheels) on the ground unless it is licensed and has current registration---
 

Harold

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There are no "conversion" kits out there--there are not enough Metros out there to make it worthwhile for anyone to spend a lot of time on a
conversion kit--and not enough interest among the owners to do any conversions---the most common (?) tranny swap is an MGA or MGB,
but the rear trans mount has to be fabricated/welded----there were 3 different trns on the Metros--early one used mechanical clutch--the next
2 tans had (early) low mounted starters, or (later) high mounted starters, and the MGA/B trans has to match--that's not 100% true--
the rear back plate can be changed to match--but it's a real pain to replace it--The Austin (BMC) company in England that built the Metro--only built 94,000 or so--maybe 90% to the US, some to Canada, and some for the home market--so in the US there are what-- maybe, 3 or 4,000 Metros out there--and most
of the Metro owners are content to live with the idiosyncrasies that they have--The number of Mets are decreasing--Out of 6 metros I have owned--3
became parts cars (and went to recycling--so I could restore the other 3--

You have to be aware that Nash wanted a CHEAP car to import as a small Nash Ambassador--and they got it--Austin wanted to use as much--as I call it--
(Parts bin) engineering as possible--take stuff right off the shelf--The Metro trans has a 3 speeds--non synchro on first gear--then second and third --

Austin had the Austin A55 and A60 which had 4 speed trans, which could have been used but would have been more expensive.

I'll rant again later--My wife wants me to do something useful around the house--I was hoping I could stretch this out for another hour or so--
 
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doc50

doc50

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Thanks, for the info, Harold. I just heard from a member of the SoCal Met Club who has flat towed his all over the country with no trouble at all. (Removing the driveshaft will not happen in my universe). So I'll give it a shot. Worst case, I'll need to continue towing it home whereupon I'll finally yank the trans and find a suitable swap. It's an MGA 1500 so I'm confident I'll be able to do something there. Current lic and reg, no problem there.
The car's simplicity is the strong point to me and IMHO, using parts at hand means that they used proven sytems that they didn't have to re-engineer (...if one ignores the 'Lucas Curse'). Complicated cars have the greater potential to break down more, in my experience, having owned well over a dozen British cars of all stripes and in the range of some 80 + 'American beauties'. Once I reversed the results of lack of dutiful maintenance by POs, never had a serious issue. The 1500 motor should be a dependable engine, if one maintains them correctly.

Cheers,

Thom
1958 Nash Metropolitan "Chuckles"
 

Harold

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continuing-- the 2 main suppliers of Metro stuff- www.metpitstop.com www.metropolitan-restoration-service.com they both have very
detailed on line catalogs--I acquired my first Met about 15 years ago as restoration project--and soon realized how easy and fun they were to work on.

I had previously owned and restored a 1952 MGTD--1953 MGYB--1953 Morris Minor--1967 Austin A35 Van--1967 Morris Minor, and a 1973
MG Midget---I have a 1955 Metro--90% finished--if the rain would stop--and a 1958 Metro, I'm working on for a friend--he buys the parts, and
I do the labor for free-best of both worlds--I just like to work on them, since they are so easy to work on and restore--
 

Harold

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Just curious--does it have any (much) rust?--front floor boards are very prone to rust--on my parts cars, I could see green grass through the floorboards.

There are patch panels available--but that seems like a lot of work--on one of my Mets, the floor panels were thin in spots, and I just fiber glassed over them--
worked fine! underneath--the spring hangers are prone to rust also--along with the "frame", door bottoms and sills--patch panels available--

On my friends Met--it started with me adapting MG Midget disc brakes--but then as I went along--I saw a lot of other things that need to be done----

later--my wife just told me that the rain has stopped , and we need to take the dog for a walk--
 
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doc50

doc50

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Just what you NoCal folks need now....rain. I'll respond point by point:
1) I'll look at those sites, THX
2) Wow, I'm trying to remember what British cars I've had...5 TR3s over the decades. Last one I completely restored incuding floor panels and trunk panel, new everything, balanced punched out the pistons etc. Hard top. Broke my heart to sell it. Had an Austin 1100, 2 Spridgets (still have a 73 MG), an MGA... Hmm, I'll have to change my obviously false memory of owning over a dozen British cars. Seems I can only recall 9...

At any rate, I really wish you lived next door. I'm having a beast of a time starting to put the used dash in 'Midge'. I have a British friend coming over soon who is good with electrics.

My present dilemma is really the 58 Nash. I bought a 'cable tracker'. Neat tool, which should help me speed up the torturous job of tracing many bodged wire repairs. I really don't want to get a whole new loom but may go that route to make it more dependable.
3) no rust found on the body so far, floors are a bit thin and already have f/g patches so I'll continue that proud tradition. This car will be a nice looking ride but I don't have the energy to build it from scratch as the TR3.
4) I'll sort out the wiring first, so as to be able to have it start and run dependably, then I'll look at the suspension and finally paint it. Is it a beast to put a loom in these cars? I teetering on that one and I did it on the TR3...

Oh, and the reason I walked in was to get a pic to ID the back of the ignition/light switch. There are no markings on the aftermarket one that 'dear PO' installed badly. Any thoughts? I'll post a pic here.

Cheers.

Thom
 

dklawson

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Thom, since you and Harold are both seasoned British car guys the following information will probably not need to be mentioned.

I am assuming the wiring color code for the Met followed the standards Lucas employed. If that's true, you can buy all the wiring bits you need (in the correct colors) from the folks at BritishWiring.com

As Harold mentioned, the donor gearbox I read about was the Austin A55 4-speed. I anticipate there would be more Mets here than Austin A55s.
 

Harold

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The 2 websites for Metros that I mentioned--both have complete wiring looms for the Metro in the correct colors, and lengths--
 
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doc50

doc50

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I just spoke with Mark at MetPitStop. I'll buy from them, as I drive right by there when I go to my occasional gig on the SDTS (Self Defense Test Ship).
I actually just ordered a loom from KIP, thinking it was cheaper. Turns out that PitStop includes all the little harnesses and connectors so they won. PROBLEM is, they're 4 weeks out of stock so KIP gets my order this time.
Full disclosure, I tried to order from Met Parts in PA but had a bit of a kerfuffle with them over communication problems so I've crossed them off my Christmas list, let's just say... PitStop (Valley Village, CA) seems like a good source and I'll save shipping!

Thom
 

Harold

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Well--to be fair--I've had some problems with each of the Met suppliers--but certain bits/parts are "better" from one than the other--
The mechanical and electrical bits are pretty straightforward----it's the trim-seat covers-headliners-carpets--and window gaskets, that are
sometimes the problem---and once you "butcher" trim, side panels, and carpets to make them fit--you can't return them--I make all my
side panels myself--
 
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doc50

doc50

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Seriously, ANTARCTICA?? That must be interesting!

I looked at the article, good info on Met run. 8 years? That's longer than a couple of my marriages . It indeed takes off like you are starting out in second gear. I was going to swap the trans for something like a Toyota W58 5 spd...until I heard from a Met owner who has towed his all around the country with no problems. I'm gonna try that.

Thom
 
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doc50

doc50

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Harold, I did kinda the same thing on the TR3, did what I could on the door and side panels. I found a guy who did a beautiful job on the seats. ''Man's gotta know his limitations''. (Clint Eastwood, one of his movies).


BTW: can you ID the (4?, 5?) tabs that make up the back of the ignition/light switch? My aftermarket switch doesn't have any markings. I've ordered a new loom but I want to frontload the change over as much as I can.

Thx

Thom
 

Harold

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the ignition/lighting switch tabs are not identified by number--you have to get an actual wiring diagram and follow the numbered and color coded
wires to see where they all go--then take your-- meter, and check the switch-- the wiring diagram and a proper manual can be purchased from
MetPitStop--the original manual which was sold when the Met came out is too outdated for the later 1500cc engine--
 
D

Deleted member 8987

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Seriously, ANTARCTICA?? That must be interesting!


Thom
You ought to see parts delivery. Wait for the proper floe to swing by, grab it with a hook, pull it in, slide the shipment across the ice to a (slightly) warmer storage shed so you don't shock the parts with room temperature.
 
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