Engine rebuild

62 Tri Carb project .
Ok so I take the bare block to the shop to have it checked over for whats needed .
I know one cylinder is going to need sleeving but I hoped the other five would just need honing and away we go .
I was hoping to just use the original pistons as they are ok and standard size . No such luck all the bores need to be bored out and new pistons etc ....but then I got thinking ....if my standard pistons are useable with new rings then why not just sleeve all the bores and resize the new sleeves to original bore dimension and use my original pistons ??
Sleeves are cheap compared to pistons and your boring out the block anyway so why not ??
Im not being cheap I just dont like tossing away good parts and Im not trying to build a high performance race motor here just keep it standard and simple /reliable .
Opinions anyone or am I out to lunch here ?
If I do go with new pistons is there any demand for good used original sized pistons ....I have two full sets with rods etc as Im making one good engine out of two .

I looked into that possibility many years ago and the machine shop I was using had been doing British iron for many years and said the block would be weakened and did not recommend it. They said you can sleeve every other hole but not all because of the way the cylinders are paired (Siamesed), you would have to sleeve a cylinder and then when you bore the next one you will have to cut partway thru the first one you just installed. No actual experience personally but I definitely trust the shop and it makes sense to me.

Besides, if your pistons were in there long enough to wear the bores, I would want new ones just because..... You are into it this far, why not go with new pistons & rings along with bearings & head rebuilt, you then have a new motor.

BTW, I heartily recommend Total Seal gapless 2nd compression rings, the only way I will go anymore.

Dave

Ok that makes sense , I guess when you remove material from the bores the gap between them decreases and seeing as you have to go bigger to accommodate the sleeve then resize to piston it would make sense that the block integrity would be weakened .
More opinions welcome .
Looks like two sets of standard Hepolite pistons will be available soon .

And you could end up with a genuine 3 litre engine instead of 2.9 something :glee:

I had to take mine out to the max - +65 thou. It will be sleeves next for someone but this should see me out



Bob

OK Guys,

How long should an engine last in good running condition before you need to rebuild or at least replace the connecting rod bearings, crank bearings, and/or pistons/rings. I have owned my 64 BJ8 since new and everyone I talked to recently seems to be rebuilding or, at least, replacing major components in the bottom end of there engines.

Although I have replaced a number of top end parts and replaced or added new technology (i.e. alternator, electronic ignition, etc.), these changes were by choice and not necessity (retained the replaced parts to return to concourse if desired). With all the conversation about engine rebuilding and with all the not-so-positive outcomes reported, I am beginning to wonder when to expect a major rebuild expenditure. Also, how much should I anticipate it will cost?

Over the years I have experienced at least 200K (Steve, originally forgot the K, thanks for the correction notification) active miles over a period of 10 years as the least I have enjoyed with no major issues. Even cars I've owned that were considered bad (i.e. Eagle Premier) held to this expectation. I appreciate there may not be an expected definitive on this and timing and cost can vary widely from area to area and inclusions, however, it would be good to have some number in mind.

Thanks all,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Ray
if you don't have any issues, i would leave it alone.

i just did a rebuild on my engine last year. about the only part i did not replace or do any work to was the cam. but then i also had some new parts in boxes that came with the car including a rebuilt gearbox, new clutch, and rebuilt carbs. i spent 4900 bucks on parts and getting work done. (machine shop, rebuilt rocker assembly, rebuilt Diz, radiator recore, etc) i replaced everything i thought might turn out to be an issue since i did not have any experience with the engine. i can't say i am the best shopper. usually i just buy what i need when i need it and hope it is a deal.

And of course i was not trying to build a race motor.

i had a conversation with the Healey Surgeons before i started my build. my first thought was to take it to them. they told me to put the engine in first and then see if i needed them for something. they said once you start a rebuild, it is all or nothing. And all costs about 8000. i can believe it when i looked at my parts build.

it was a heck of a lot of fun though.

I used .060"-over Venolia forged pistons and displacement came out to 184.1 cu in.

For convenience, I used this online displacement calculator:
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-displacement-calculator

+.030" yields 183 c.i./3.0 liter.

Update .
The block maganfluxed ok so the machine shop did the rough boring . Turns out two cylinders are going to need sleeving unless I went 60 over so I decided on just going 30 over and sleeves in two cylinders .

Bob Hughes said:

And you could end up with a genuine 3 litre engine instead of 2.9 something :glee:

I had to take mine out to the max - +65 thou. It will be sleeves next for someone but this should see me out



Bob

Click to expand...

Did you have to go to Rich carb needles?

Is there sufficient material between the cylinders to sleeve all the cylinders . I was under the impression you could only sleeve every other cylinder .
Also what about the outward pressure created by the interference fit of the liner in the oversize bore does that create stress on the block ?

Patrick67BJ8 said:

Did you have to go to Rich carb needles?

Click to expand...

Funny you should ask that, the short answer is no - I had to get stock needles - Some months after the rebuild, I experienced a dramatic down turn in engine performance, I had had the car for over 12 years without problems - well not of this sort. After messing around with all the electrics and stuff I changed the jets and that still did not work, my problem was that the plugs were sooting up faster than I could clean them. I ordered up some new needles - stock spec and that cured my problem - I had been over fueling. Comparing the two sets of needles showed that a PO had messed about tapering the original set so in theory I was running rich all the time and some. Why 12 years wizzed by without me experiencing this problem before I have no idea.



Bob

Bob Hughes said:

Funny you should ask that, the short answer is no - I had to get stock needles - Some months after the rebuild, I experienced a dramatic down turn in engine performance, I had had the car for over 12 years without problems - well not of this sort. After messing around with all the electrics and stuff I changed the jets and that still did not work, my problem was that the plugs were sooting up faster than I could clean them. I ordered up some new needles - stock spec and that cured my problem - I had been over fueling. Comparing the two sets of needles showed that a PO had messed about tapering the original set so in theory I was running rich all the time and some. Why 12 years wizzed by without me experiencing this problem before I have no idea.



Bob

Click to expand...

I may rethink the Rich needles I installed. I was told to go to Rich because of ethanol gas and engine bored outbto 60 over. The engine after warmed up dies slowly at idle which makes me think it’s too rich.

Patrick67BJ8 said:

I may rethink the Rich needles I installed. I was told to go to Rich because of ethanol gas and engine bored outbto 60 over. The engine after warmed up dies slowly at idle which makes me think it’s too rich.

Click to expand...

I'm in a similar boat after my .060 rebuild. I installed new jets and rich needles. Set the floats to 5/16" up from 7/16. I'm getting around 10-11 mpg around town and the plugs and tailpipe are sooty. Car starts easily and runs almost immediately with little choke.

Not dying, though. Better idling performance after the new delrin bushings. The car runs well, but think it should be getting better mileage around town.

As soon as I get my dual AEM wide-band air/fuel meters installed, am going to revisit the above settings one by one.

steveg said:

I'm in a similar boat after my .060 rebuild. I installed new jets and rich needles. Set the floats to 5/16" up from 7/16. I'm getting around 10-11 mpg around town and the plugs and tailpipe are sooty. Car starts easily and runs almost immediately with little choke.

Not dying, though. Better idling performance after the new delrin bushings. The car runs well, but think it should be getting better mileage around town.

As soon as I get my dual AEM wide-band air/fuel meters installed, am going to revisit the above settings one by one.

Click to expand...

Looking forward to hearing your results after A/F meters installed.

steveg said:

I'm in a similar boat after my .060 rebuild. I installed new jets and rich needles. Set the floats to 5/16" up from 7/16. I'm getting around 10-11 mpg around town and the plugs and tailpipe are sooty. Car starts easily and runs almost immediately with little choke.

Not dying, though. Better idling performance after the new delrin bushings. The car runs well, but think it should be getting better mileage around town.

As soon as I get my dual AEM wide-band air/fuel meters installed, am going to revisit the above settings one by one.

Click to expand...

Assuming HD8 carbs - the dying may be caused by leaking butterfly shafts. Before I had my shafts rebushed, I would have to crack the throttles; couldn't get to 800 with the slow-run screws. At stoplights it would idle at 1300 then slowly settle back to 500 then want to die. Since getting rebushed, don't have any trouble adjusting it to 800 or so using the slow-run screws only.

steveg said:

Assuming HD8 carbs - the dying may be caused by leaking butterfly shafts. Before I had my shafts rebushed, I would have to crack the throttles; couldn't get to 800 with the slow-run screws. At stoplights it would idle at 1300 then slowly settle back to 500 then want to die. Since getting rebushed, don't have any trouble adjusting it to 800 or so using the slow-run screws only.

Click to expand...

Who did your Delrin bushings?

Patrick67BJ8 said:

Who did your Delrin bushings?

Click to expand...

See:
https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/