TR2/3/3A TR3A adding weight to improve handling

I have a 59 Tr3A I was wondering about adding weight to the car to improve handling . I weigh about 250 and drive by myself the car has stock shocks and springs and the front shocks are new . How does one go about calculating how and where to add weight to a car to balance it out for cornering ? Or is this a waste of time ? Thank you for your time and expertise Here is a video of the car cornering . I already know about the shifting going through the corner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpokRQk4YgY

Unless you're racing the car, it's not going to make any noticeable difference at all in the handling to either ad or move existing weight around to even out the load. The factory used to ship the cars with slightly higher rear spring rates on the drivers side rear leaf on the assumption that the car would have one occupant most of the time (especially during spirited driving). Now I'm not sure if you can even get the original type springs with different rates left/right.

If you're looking to seriously improve TR3 handling, wider rubber is the easiest way to gain speed in the corners After that, a slightly stiffer set of springs in the front with a good set of adjustable shocks, along with a front sway bar will go a long way. But once you get the front end to grip a bit better and eliminate the tendency to understeer you'll then chase down the right springs/shocks/possibly sway bar to keep the rear end from coming around as easily. Upgrading handling is a science that I don't fully understand yet.....

I honestly think the best way to get a significant improvement in solid axle TR handling is to go with a mild suspension package from one of the more reputable tuners that will sell you everything in one shot that is all designed to work together. And if you're going to put any real amount of stress through the suspension it's also a good idea to think about reinforcing the frame at some key points as well.

Thanks Alfred I always enjoyed reading Mad Magazine

What size tires and wheels would be the best ? The wheels I have now are bent and suck big time , The tires are new firestones stock size

Adding weight will never improve handling. The TR3 has a natural understeer that can be easily balanced with throttle. If you prefer less understeer add a rear sway bar. For more, add a front bar. If it rolls too much in corners, then add both bars.

I'm running 205/55 tires on stock TR6 rims. I'm not sure the extra width helped all that much, but getting to a more modern tire size means you have choices in tread compound and construction that just aren't available in the old skinny tires. Bridgestone Potenzas were about the best handling tire I tried, but the Kumho Ecstas are a close second and give a better ride.

Offset is important when choosing wheels. I tried a set of aftermarket wheels the same width as the TR6 ones; but the offset was just enough different that they wouldn't fit with the 205 tires. The TR6 wheels are pretty close to ideal as far as stuffing as much tire as possible between the fender and frame. Even so, I did have to massage things just a bit, and the tires do rub lightly in hard turns. Not enough to damage them, but you can see the shiny stripe on the sidewall.

A front swaybar will help noticeably, too. Opinions are mixed on whether a light rear bar helps or not. On my previous 59, I felt that it did help on the street, but was a hindrance on the autocross course as it tended to unload the inner rear tire so I couldn't get power to the ground. A limited slip diff should help that, but the car got wrecked before I had a chance to try it.

The front bar made by ADDCO (and offered by various vendors) is about right IMO with no rear bar (and no other suspension mods). If you run a rear bar, though, you can go heavier up front too. I used nylon bushings to get more action from the ADDCO bar, but could have used more IMO. Richard Goode said he could bend me a custom bar in my choice of sizes, but I didn't get that far.

FWIW, I don't believe the spring rates were ever deliberately different side-to-side. Instead, the passenger side spring had a spacer incorporated, so the car rode level with only a driver. I don't know of anyone selling the "handed" springs; but you can add the spacer yourself if you want. It's just two sections of main leaf, long enough to match the pad on the axle and the same width as the rest of the spring.