TR2/3/3A paint gun set up

S

sp53

Yoda

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• Sep 8, 2018

• #1

Well I am back to painting and was wondering how you people felt about this paint gun set up information. I have been watching many videos to gather information, and think this guy shows a nice simple way to set up the gun. I like this guy, but cannot find any more of his stuff. moreover, he makes it look easy, but I am not getting his results.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDDk-pJWrJ0


Peace out steve

 

CJD

Yoda

Offline

• Sep 8, 2018

• #2

It is truly that simple. If you are not getting the same results, the number one mistake most make is using paint that is not thinned enough. Thick paint causes myriad issues and makes the easy seem complicated.

One thing, he is spraying dead still as a demonstration. I normally keep the gun in motion as if I were laying a coat, even when setting the controls...just to build the good habit patterns.

 

OP

S

sp53

Yoda

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• Sep 8, 2018

• #3

I probably should have keep going the way I was, but this car painting is an additive challenge and I wanted to improve my knowledge. Before, I would set the gun the opposite of how this guy does it by tuning all the screws in and then backing them off to what seemed to work for me which was about 3/4 of turn on the fan and about 1 and 3/4 on the paint. When I tried to copy this guy, I ended up with about 1 and ¼ on the fan and 1 and ½ on the paint and the results were not as good; the paint seemed to lay thin, but again I only put 2 coats on the back of a panel, but I had no runs.

In addition, I ran out of paint and had some more made. The colors do not match; there seems to be too much blue in it. I believe it needs more white. Monday I will go back and have them tweak it plus there seems to be a bark blue blob something in the filter. I am losing my sense of humor.
Peace out steve

 

D

DavidApp

Yoda

Gold

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• Sep 8, 2018

• #4

After I had painted the underside and inside I could see that I may run out of paint so I had more made up before I started on the outside. I then combined the two mixes so if there was any slight difference all the outside would be the same.

OTJ learning is a tough way to go to get the perfect paint job. Had some runs that were probable caused by putting the next coat on too soon. Primer is a lot different to top coat.

David

 

CJD

Yoda

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• Sep 8, 2018

• #5

Believe it or not, the light shades are the hardest to match. Less pigment is used, so a minuscule difference by the mixer makes a noticeable difference in the paint. I usually do as David and mix old with new. If I have to buy more, and purchase early so I have enough old to blend with the new.


You're learning, whether it seems like it or not. Remember that his "turns" are based on his rig with his paint mix. If he changed the viscosity of the paint, then he would have to change his settings. The real pros...like he is...use viscosity cups to thin every cup to the exact same consistency. We aren't quite that versed and have to adjust the settings to compensate. By the way...viscosity cups aren't that pricey. I've never felt I needed one, but if I had one I would use it.

 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader

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• Sep 9, 2018

• #6

Yes, painting can be a very frustrating process but in the end you can be proud to say you did it yourself...not too many guys can say that.

As some of you might know, I ran out of paint while painting my 60 TR3A. The second mix of paint (white) was a shade off of the original mixture. You couldn't really see it until you saw two adjoining panels in the sun and then it became obvious. For me, it required a repaint of the entire car. Live and learn.

I'm still learning as I'm in the process of repainting the hood for the car after 2 years....I had a paint lift/bubble in one of the corners that I'd been living with. It should be back to base clear by next weekend.

Cheers
Tush

 

Scot1966

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 9, 2018

• #7

M_Pied_Lourd said:

As some of you might know, I ran out of paint while painting my 60 TR3A. The second mix of paint (white) was a shade off of the original mixture. You couldn't really see it until you saw two adjoining panels in the sun and then it became obvious. For me, it required a repaint of the entire car. Live and learn

Cheers
Tush

Click to expand...

Hello Tush.
I have been thinking lately about exactly what happened to you here. I am at the point on my 6 where I am about to paint the tub and mount it back to the chassis. I won't be painting the rest of the panels until next spring / summer. Would you say that if I am panel painting this car, the best route is to have a mix of enough paint to do all the ( outside ) sheet metal from the same mix ? My car is going to be the original white also.

Thanks,
Scot

 

D

DavidApp

Yoda

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• Sep 9, 2018

• #8

Hello Scot

I am doing exactly the same thing on my TR3A. I painted the underside, inside the tub and the engine compartment. Then bolted the tub back to the frame.
At that point I had used a little over 1/2 a gallon of finish paint. So I decided to get a second mix of 1/2 a gallon and combine them to complete all of the removable panels the scuttle and rear apron with the same mix. Would rather be over by a quart than under by a cup with the paint.

David

 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader

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• Sep 10, 2018

• #9

I agree, make sure you have more than enough paint for your project. I like to have some extra on hand anyway just in case of a mishap or accident or to respray an area that you might have screwed up

Cheers
Tush

 

OP

S

sp53

Yoda

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• Sep 10, 2018

• #10

Well let me say this, a gallon was not enough to paint a tr3 with my skill leave, and I do not think I wasted much. I would get a gallon and half and have it put in quart cans. I used enamel and paid 130.00 for the gallon. I just bought a quart and paid 33.00 that I am trying to match with. They have this system of paper sheets with holes in them and you paint that sheet after you have reduce and stuff at your shop and they tweak it too match if it does not. We are in that process now, and I sure hope it works because I might bang on my high chair which is not a nice site and purchase stuff on line. The first body shop I purchased from was bought out by the second. The address has changed but the main 2 guys still work there. There is one other body shop paint store in town and that is it.

steve

 

smaceng

Jedi Knight

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• Sep 10, 2018

• #11

So I recently finished up my restoration on my TR6, and I painted it myself in the garage.
Best to have some spare sheet metal and try out the gun settings. I purchased 3 cheap fenders for a Honda.
Most gunners I talked to have the fan wide open and then set the flow so that at about 12", the paint is fine droplets. That is with a stationary gun with a one second pull on the trigger. Make sure you have the required pressure at the gun as dictated by the paint manufacturer. Make sure you have the correct reducer for the spray temperature. I had a difficult time when I started with gun movement....but got the hang of it when I was done.
Expect to spend a HUGE amount of time in the cutting and buffing.
Cheers,
Scott

 

Scot1966

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 10, 2018

• #12

Thanks David, Tush, and Steve !

 

CJD

Yoda

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• Sep 10, 2018

• #13

It’s funny (odd) about the amount of paint it takes. The newbies always want to minimize what you buy, and refuse to accept it takes more than a gallon. The more you do this, the more you up give trying to be cheap, as it always bites in the end run to the finish. I buy 2 gallons to do a full TR3 resto with the complete tub. It will only take about 1-1/2 gallon. But then you spray enough panels more than once that you use all but about 1 or 2 pints. Those are good for touch-ups down the road.

I sit down before the supplier rings up the bill...it is truly frightening how expensive paint has become. I write it off to what I am saving by doing it all myself. The effort you are putting into this, Steve, is what would cost 8-10k in a good body shop. You are doing much better prep and will have an entirely different result than the old Earl Schibe $200 jobs. Your car will be awesome when it’s done!

 

D

DavidApp

Yoda

Gold

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• Sep 10, 2018

• #14

While I was at the paint store I overheard the counter guy talking to a customer. He was quoting for some special Ford paint. I asked him did I hear you correct that was $600.00 per gallon.

Made mine seem a bit better.

David

 

CJD

Yoda

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• Sep 11, 2018

• #15

If you want sticker shock...check into Glasurit. It's over a thousand a gallon...but it is worth it. After a week you cannot buff it. After a month it is harder than glass. It's worth it because you never have to repaint your car...once for life.

 

glemon

Yoda

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• Sep 12, 2018

• #16

I have nothing to offer as far as painting skills and techniques go. My results seem to somewhat randomly good or bad for reasons that if I understood I would be a better painter. My first batch of panels I painted turned out better than the later ones on my TR250.

Anyhow, I and some friends have been happy with the restoration shop paint and products purchased from tcp global, second batch matched the first fine, https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/?_ga=2.220902608.953739938.1536807912-750321364.1536807912&_gac=1.25443023.1536807912.CjwKCAjw8uLcBRACEiwAaL6MSfrSNFhK5rlKDQUQlViE2oEeO6mfy6m3O-gqWECGVXDqxbImT_hsSRoCvUcQAvD_BwE keep records of what you order. Used slightly over a gallon to paint the car inside and out, had to redo several panels.