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Refurbishing BJ8 Front Grille and Surround

pkmh

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Hello Forum,



I have finally decided to refurbish my BJ8 Grille and Surround. Since I've pulled out my radiator and fan blades for refurbishment, figured it was a good time to tackle the grille assembly since I now have better access to all those 6 mounting points supporting the grille and surround to the shroud.


The grille and surround are now out, along with the splash guards and deflector shields. There are a number of things I'm doing at the moment which include:



  1. Better alignment of some of the grille's teeth. That is, where the imaginary mid-line runs horizontally across the grille. Existing condition not bad, but I do notice slight unevenness or waviness at the extreme ends when viewing the grille from an angle. I will only apply a bit of physical pressure in spots to the top and bottom mounting rails to straighten, since they too, are a little wavy, which will hopefully be enough in straightening some, if not all, that imaginary line. I realize I may not achieve total perfection but an improvement is hopeful. All the vertical teeth are in excellent enough alignment to each other. No further improvement necessary there;
  2. Remove a small number of dings to a half dozen teeth. No major problems anticipated there;
  3. Cleaning/restoration of aluminum surfaces to front of all teeth and their sides (One of my questions is noted below);
  4. The existing chrome eyebrow is now overlapping the surround. I plan to correct it by placing the eyebrow under the surround. Seems to be the accepted norm, though I must admit, I like the eyebrow over, more than under;
  5. Spray paint the inner portion of the surround a matt finish (silver ok?), as came out of the factory. Surround is presently left completely finished in chrome.


Other thoughts I have and hopefully some light from the Forum can be shared, especially:



  1. Item #4 above. Can anyone recommend what to use to remove subtle pitting of the front aluminum teeth and removal of the oxidation to their sides? See first photo. Just curious. I've tried different approaches and although the overall appearance has improved, I’m seeking a more nicely restored look, if possible. Should I use a matt silver spray paint on the sides only (leaving the front teeth finish alone, as is) and be done with it?
  2. In the third photo shown, please notice how the top mounting rail sits below the surround's underside, leaving a gap by approximately a ¼ inch. Question: There are 4 slip type mounting points and 2 remaining holed types which secure the grille to the shroud. I was thinking of elongating all the mounting point openings, so as to allow to raise the grille a bit higher. At least another 1/8”, if possible. Good idea?
  3. In the middle photo shown, I've read in some older posts how the bottom rivets securing the grille's teeth were actually sprayed a black finish to hide the rivets. Is this true? Any thoughts on how to finish that area or was that how it left the factory?


Thank you for any input offered. Much appreciated!


Paul
 

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Healey Nut

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When I did mine I had everything rechromed and the damaged ares where the brackets are welded to the mouthpiece repaired . I didnt bother with the matt finish line in the bottom as Im not a purist . As far as I know it wasnt spray painted but sandblasted after chroming to dull the finish (Im sure the purists will correct me on that) As for the grill teeth I just did some straightening knocked out the worst dents then sandblasted the assembly to etch the surface and spray painted the whole teeth assembly silver .I used that dupli color chrome paint .....I think
All looks great to me , I have had lots of purists look at the car and never ask me “is that grill painted”
 

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Keoke

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Hopefully you have an excellent chrome plater available in your area .

This is a job for an expert and it may cost a bit of change, Just my opinion
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Keoke,
Appreciate your opinion but skipping the pro approach for now. It is better than it was before so I'm happy!

Healey Rick,
Your grille looks good from where I'm standing.

I just finished refurbishing my grille and am satisfied with my results. Got all the annoying dings out, cleaned and buffed the fronts and sides of the teeth, aligned better that horizontal mid line, even tapped out one tooth from behind to create an more perfect imagery arc line and finished with elongating the mounting holes slightly. See pics:

Hopefully, remounting the grille with even become a more perfect fit after sorting it all out.

The surround is now next.

Thank you so far.

Paul
 

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Last edited:
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I have tried everything to get that mat finish it left the factory with. Etching primer,all types of spray on paint. Nothing holds up. Scratches off easily. Finally just left the chrome.
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Think you meant Healey Nut. Mine was in pretty good shape with a couple of dings. I replaced those "teeth" from ones from Healey Surgeons. Looks good enough for a Nasty Boy.

Yes, you're right. I meant Healey Nut. Sorry!
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Think you meant Healey Nut. Mine was in pretty good shape with a couple of dings. I replaced those "teeth" from ones from Healey Surgeons. Looks good enough for a Nasty Boy.
Healey Rick,

I see Moss sells a complete assembly for under $300.00. is it not worth just buying a new one, assuming they do still have in stock? How does it compare to Healey Surgeons? Any different? Mine turned out good enough, not perfect, but better than it was before so for now, not going to do anymore with it.

Thanks.
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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I have tried everything to get that mat finish it left the factory with. Etching primer,all types of spray on paint. Nothing holds up. Scratches off easily. Finally just left the chrome.

Tahoe,

I am aware the same will happen to my surround after its painted. But I have decided to do it anyway. I can always go back to having an all chrome finish. Guess now is a good time to wish me luck!

Thanks!
 

HealeyRick

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Healey Rick,

I see Moss sells a complete assembly for under $300.00. is it not worth just buying a new one, assuming they do still have in stock? How does it compare to Healey Surgeons? Any different? Mine turned out good enough, not perfect, but better than it was before so for now, not going to do anymore with it.

Thanks.

I only needed a couple of slats repaired so repair costs were about $20. I don't see the individual slats in Healey Surgeons' catalog, but I think that's where I got them. AH Spares carries them, too.
 

RAC68

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Hi All,

I am always amazed at what lengths people will go to have their Healey looking good...and I am one of them...almost. I do have some blemishes in my vertical grill slats but see them as character marks. A Perfect Healey was not created at the factory and is counter to Donald's rough and tumble creation.

Do I want my Healey to look good, by all means. When redoing my directional Flasher Relay box recently, I broke the plastic component in one of my dash indicators and purchased a new replacement. What arrived was a piece of crap and a great disappointment as its metal cover was dull and fixed in place with a drop of glue (not wrapped securely around plastic arrow as the original). As a result of unsatisfactory discussions with the vender, I carefully unwrapped the chrome metal cap from my original indicator and secured it on the new plastic, made easier since its metal cap popped off (glue did not hold). The cost was quite high and the part a piece of crap...as so many replacement parts available now.

So what am I trying to say, unless substantially deformed, I would suggest you keep the slats you have in place. You are never sure the replacements will both match in color, finish, or dimensions for easy and non-obvious installation. Additionally, the price you will pay is not limited to the cost of the part but can be from consequential issues encountered.

Grill Driving lights.jpg

As far as matching the silver paint on the grill surround, I painted my surround when initially completing my Healey back in the late 1980s and the paint is still as good as when original applied. Using generally available aerosol silver paint (I have no idea the brand), I cleaned the area and masked of the area. (2) light coats were all that was needed and the match was reasonably close to the original and I haven't heard anyone say different yet.

Just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Ray,

I'm with you on using a silver painted finish to the surround. I just finished masking my surround and *alcohol cleaned (*anything better?) the surfaces to receive a silver painted finish. I'm going to use an engine enamel paint which I find durable over plain enamels. I haven't made exhaustive investigations on different paints to use but feel good using this approach.

As for how far to take my Healey to make it look good, I enjoy the restoration process as much as I enjoy driving her. To me, it's part of appreciating the "car art" of it all. The Austin Healey 3000 is in a class all by itself. The dash, the hood, the engine compartment, the body lines, the sound of the engine...(omg--the sound!). Make no mistake, I am a purist-want-to-be. Even my (currently) two volume journal, consisting of numerous sketches and notes, is an extension of my artsy ways with owning this car (and think about it, in 1967, there were no home computors, iPhones or iPads. Just sketch pads and cameras, not even a 24hr. photo mart, I believe). I'm having fun, plain and simple.

When I get tired of trying to make her look more beautiful, in an all original way that is (to each his own), then its time to just go for a good drive.

Thanks,

Paul

PS: When the day comes I have to give this car up, it will be a very sad day for me, indeed!
 
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RAC68

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Hi Paul,

As we are personal friends, I have seen all you have said reflected in your past projects. My concern with pursuing perfection in the name of art, design, and enjoyment is not an issue. Since I know you do drive your Healey (more than I drive mine), striving to eliminate every imperfection will only provide a fresh target area for road debris.

When viewing my grille, have you noticed the dings? Probably not, as they are relatively inconsequential and obscured by the overall presence presented by the Healey. If there were a really bent or damaged vertical, I would definitely suggest replacing it. However, you have no major issues with your grille and correcting or replacing sections to eliminate minor dings could present unexpected issues.

When dealing with my Directional Flasher Relay, I never expected to have the dash indicator break. I also didn't expect the problems surrounding the reinstallation of front fender and door as I had removed and reinstalled these sections many times in the past. However, these issues became more significant a task than rebuilding and installing the box. In my case, I had no choice as I needed to have working directional and brake signals but you have a choice as your grille is in quite good condition to begin with. My suggestion, polish, paint, and even hammer out small imperfections, but carefully consider going further.

As always, all the best,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Advice well taken, Ray.

I do try to investigate as to what quality replacement parts are out there for I have been disappointed many times. It makes me nervous when I have to order new stuff on line. It is a challenge sometimes, to restore with what you got, but I do it and it does prove satisfying most of the time, especially if an improvement becomes the result. My efforts to improve the aesthetics of my grille and surround has increased overall by 10-15% (I was hoping for more). But, I'll take it! Two tiny remaining dings still noticeable to my eyes, but that because those eyes are mine!

The issue you had with your directional indicator (and I'm assuming you are referring to that piece on the wood dash) brought back memories for me for I went through the same episode with my second Healey. The metal dome piece looked pretty crappy on the dash but the green plastic was complete. Luckily, I had a better spare dome piece that came with the car but was still attached to a broken plastic piece. I managed to dremel (my favorite tool, again) the two plastics to make one and glued, and is still in place to this day. And luckily, I never had to attempt to pry off the metal dome piece. If ever I find that I have to replace another indicator again, I'll be ready for I will make my own to match by modifying an upholstery button or like-kind material having the same shape, dremel carve an arrow in it and then attach to a green plastic piece to my making or find. I had already thought of this years ago and if I didn't already have that spare, that's the way it would of went.

Hope all is working out with your directional issues, btw.

Thanks again,

Paul
 
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Healey Nut

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Personally I will spend many hours and lots more $$$$ restoring an original part before I will order a reproduction part . Usually as stated they turn out to be cheap crap that I wont let anywhere near my cars .
Case in point my dash panels have probably a weeks work in each of them but I can say they are original .
Restoring old cars is exactly that , taking old damaged broken old stuff and making it look as good as new or sometimes better than new .
Buying new parts and bolting them together is called an erector set .

whooo hooo a 1000 posts ....does that get me some kind of award ? :peaceful:
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Personally I will spend many hours and lots more $$$$ restoring an original part before I will order a reproduction part . Usually as stated they turn out to be cheap crap that I wont let anywhere near my cars .
Case in point my dash panels have probably a weeks work in each of them but I can say they are original .
Restoring old cars is exactly that , taking old damaged broken old stuff and making it look as good as new or sometimes better than new .
Buying new parts and bolting them together is called an erector set .

whooo hooo a 1000 posts ....does that get me some kind of award ? :peaceful:

I think you've just been knighted!
 

RestoreThemAll

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Paul, I'm no paint expert but I have used engine paint from a can. Most are far better if they are heated to cure/harden. Heat gun if no on he engine? Wheel paint is pretty tough stuff. It can take heat but for the most part doesn't need so much heat to cure.
De
 

RestoreThemAll

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VHTpaint is one that I've had luck with. NAPA has it. VHT web site is helpful. I realize that you're not asking so ignore me if you like. I'm married with children so I'm used to it.
 
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pkmh

pkmh

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Dale,

Just noticed you left a couple of messages. Never knew new posts were added. But
Thanks for the advice on paints. My surround has been painted for days now. I used the silver engine enamel. Looks nice and hope it holds up. Too late on your advice but will keep it on record.

I went back to the grille and swapped out a couple of slats with better ones at the extreme ends. Drilled out the old rivets and had new ones ready. She is looking real nice now. Will post pics soon, preferably when everything is back in place.

Paul
 

RestoreThemAll

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Do you receive email for posts that you start or participate in? I do. Though, I can't recall where on the BTC you set that up. Probably your account.

Pics, we do like pics.
 
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