• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

TR4/4A HS6 problem

Tr-Beg

Member
Offline
Hi,

For 1 year I didn't use my car, last week I removed the carbs, inlet and outlet manifold to repaint the exhaust. Put everything in place I supposed that after one year the TR will make some difficulties to start to run, I just filled the bowls of the carbs with fuel. I injected a few from a "start pilot" can and... In a fraction of second the motor was running at high speed more than 3.000 and I jumped to shut the contact.

After 3 days of working I still have that problem, the motor will run at 2.000 - 3.000 no idle! Of course the butterflies are closed, the dash are OK with the "click sound", no "starter" position ( the jet are up ) the links to the butterflies spindle are removed ( the carbs are on their own ), the screws for the idle are almost out. If I put a palm on any carb I feel a big suction and the rev of the motor go to idle state.
I cut the contact, I look inside the carbs and the rear seems more wet ( always be careful with a "it's seems" ) you may think the needle valve is bad but I swapped the 2 valves and the "seems" is still for the rear carbs, have already lower the level in the 2 bowls ( but last year I drive and no problems with the previous level ). I have lowered the pressure of the king fuel regulator tomorrow i buy a simple little filter to by-pass it.

Any idea?
 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
Vacuum Leak? Intake not seated properly on the mounting.

Cheers
Tush
 

charleyf

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Check the float bowl shut off valves. It sounds like you are getting fuel into the carbs in excess of what it should be.
Have you checked to make sure your floats have not filled and " sunk"?
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Got to be too much air somehow.

On the TRactor motor, there are two short pins that are supposed to locate the intake manifold to the head. It is surprisingly easy to put together with the manifold not over the pins but being held away from the head by them. Not obvious either, because the top looks OK and you can't see the bottom and sides because of the exhaust.
 
OP
T

Tr-Beg

Member
Offline
Got to be too much air somehow.

On the TRactor motor, there are two short pins that are supposed to locate the intake manifold to the head. It is surprisingly easy to put together with the manifold not over the pins but being held away from the head by them. Not obvious either, because the top looks OK and you can't see the bottom and sides because of the exhaust.

Hi for everybody,

The PVC valve is connected
Inlet manifold secure in his spigots
not cracked manifold
Throttle shaft not weared
No choke active on any carb


Only indication is the top bowl of the rear carb becomes wet with fuel but I have already swap the needle valve and lowered the level in the bowl.
(What I was surprised is that at 3.000 rpm the serious suction at the input of the carbs with shut butterflies. the dash pots go up for a half centimeter)


Next step : I will put a little filter in place of the King filter ( But I don't believe much with that ).
Ik wil give fuel only to the front carb en see, then only the rear carb en see.


Thanks,
 
OP
T

Tr-Beg

Member
Offline
Hi for everybody,

The PVC valve is connected
Inlet manifold secure in his spigots
not cracked manifold
Throttle shaft not weared
No choke active on any carb


Only indication is the top bowl of the rear carb becomes wet with fuel but I have already swap the needle valve and lowered the level in the bowl.
(What I was surprised is that at 3.000 rpm the serious suction at the input of the carbs with shut butterflies. the dash pots go up for a half centimeter)


Next step : I will put a little filter in place of the King filter ( But I don't believe much with that ).
Ik wil give fuel only to the front carb en see, then only the rear carb en see.


Thanks,

Hello,


I didn't change the King fuel filter with a little one, I didn't believe it could be the problem...


I blocked the fuel for the rear carb and started the car, the car was running round 1.000 rpm but when I pushed on the accelerator the motor didn't go back to around idle rpm? The butterfly was closed from a look from the entry of the carb carb but with a close inspection with dash-pot removed the butterfly didn't come back always on the same "closed" position, feeling a mechanical drag. I removed the 2 carbs, on the bank everything was OK, I put carefully the carb back in place checking everytime the working of the butterflies, every thing perfect.
I started the car with fuel for front carb, it's OK with always a return to idle rpm. I didn't check with only the rear carb started with the 2 and it's was ok.


The idle is not constant cycling around 900 to 1200 but I changed the level in the bowl yesterday, fine tuning for tomorrow.


Another problem I detected 2 days ago, removing the choke command the jet on the front carb don't go up completely, he need a little push to help the spring to completed the return.
 
OP
T

Tr-Beg

Member
Offline
Hello,


I didn't change the King fuel filter with a little one, I didn't believe it could be the problem...


I blocked the fuel for the rear carb and started the car, the car was running round 1.000 rpm but when I pushed on the accelerator the motor didn't go back to around idle rpm? The butterfly was closed from a look from the entry of the carb carb but with a close inspection with dash-pot removed the butterfly didn't come back always on the same "closed" position, feeling a mechanical drag. I removed the 2 carbs, on the bank everything was OK, I put carefully the carb back in place checking everytime the working of the butterflies, every thing perfect.
I started the car with fuel for front carb, it's OK with always a return to idle rpm. I didn't check with only the rear carb started with the 2 and it's was ok.


The idle is not constant cycling around 900 to 1200 but I changed the level in the bowl yesterday, fine tuning for tomorrow.


Another problem I detected 2 days ago, removing the choke command the jet on the front carb don't go up completely, he need a little push to help the spring to completed the return.

The final report...


"The idle is not constant cycling around 900 to 1200" in fact WAS because it is OK now, I cleaned the bowl of the carbs and jets with air pressure and cleaned the King filter and the filter and bowl of the mechanical pump.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
G SU HS6 Carburetors Needle Jets Selection Austin Healey 3
KVH General Tech HS6 Carburetor Bushings Triumph 10
F TR4/4A SU HS6 jet initial adjustment jet not flush with bridge Triumph 7
F TR4/4A Replacement air filter for SU HS6 Triumph 6
Jayplum For Sale SU HS6 for sale along with a long intake Triumph Classifieds 3
Y TR6 SU HS6 question Triumph 1
J TR6 Moss HS6 SU conversion kit question Triumph 4
P BJ7 HS6 Carb Baseline Setting Austin Healey 10
Carlos TR4/4A GROSE-JET or Viton-tip for SU HS6 carbs? Triumph 15
D TR4/4A SU HS6 throttle spindle size Triumph 20
BLong63AH HS6 BJ7 Carb Insulators Austin Healey 5
KVH TR4/4A Wish I Could Give Up--My Carbs Still HS6 TR4A Triumph 27
TRMark TR4/4A Convert from H6 and log to HS6 and 4A intake Triumph 6
trotti Calling all SU experts - Volvo HS6 Carbs Austin Healey 11
gbtr6 TR6 SU HS6 carb needle questions Triumph 17
KVH General Tech HS6 SU Carbs Triumph 1
RickB MGB HS6 or HIF4 bolt right on in place of Stromberg? MG 6
toysrrus TR2/3/3A HS6 Jet Assy Linkage Request Triumph 4
A BJ7 with HS6 SU Carbs - which needles Austin Healey 1
Simmo TR2/3/3A HS6 Carburettors Triumph 4
charleyf TR4/4A Hs6 carb rebuilding Triumph 8
KVH TR4/4A Carburetor Heat Shield for HS6 SUs Triumph 4
G TR4/4A tr4a hs6 carb Triumph 1
H TR4/4A 4A Throttle linkage for HS6 SU Triumph 2
Hap Waldrop SU H6 and HS6 carbs Triumph 9
B TR6 Hitachi HS6 HIF rebuild/TR6 Triumph 1
T SU HS6 tuning - lifting pin question Triumph 11
Lotuswins HS6's on a BJ8 motor Austin Healey 11
H TR6 TR6 HS6 Needle selection Triumph 0
TR4nut TR4/4A TR4A HS6 Factory writeup? Triumph 9
KVH HS6 SU Carbs Triumph 2
K H6 SU carb dome and HS6 carb dome? Triumph 9
T HS6 idle setting Triumph 3
R SU HS6 Carbs overflow leaking........... MG 20
T NLA SU HS6 part request Triumph 10
T Anyone have a spare HS6 pivot bolt Triumph 13
S HS6 Carburetor Austin Healey 16
T One more SU HS6 question Triumph 25
T Float & needle adjustment on SU HS6 - slightly OT Triumph 20
KVH TR4/4A SU-HS6 Carb "Choke" Issue--My TR4A Triumph 8
T TR2/3/3A Will HS6 fit in TR3? Triumph 10
H HS6 Fixed needle centering tips Triumph 1
B Measurements of HS6 Carb MG 12
H TR6 TR6 HS6 Conversion Triumph 6
H HS6 JET identification Triumph 2
H TR6 Volvo HS6 Carbs on a TR6 Triumph 9
H TR6 HS6 RUNNING TOO RICH ON TR6 Triumph 11
H TR6 HS6 for Tr6 -Pics Needed Triumph 1
T TR6 HS6's on a TR6 Triumph 14
chicken is this the correct float for a HS6 carb on a BJ7 Austin Healey 4

Similar threads

Top