Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Heater Control Valve

Discussions of Triumph motor cars

  1. #1
    Member edkap2002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hunter, NY
    Posts
    29
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    3
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    0
    Thanked in
    0 Posts

    Heater Control Valve

    Hello, It is now time for me to replace all hoses and the heater control valve....all, if not most, have been in place for 47 years.
    Looks like all the hose clamps will have to be cut off with a Dremel tool as the rust has taken over the screw heads. I put an adjustable wrench on the stem fitting on the heater control valve and it did not budge! I'm afraid to put too much pressure on it for fear of breaking/cracking it or the block. I really felt solid. Any advise???...thank you as always....Ed

  2. #2
    Great Pumpkin TR3driver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sunny So California
    Posts
    18,305
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    2
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    20
    Thanked in
    18 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    I would probably start by dosing the joint with PB Blaster every few days for a couple of weeks. Then at some point, I'd probably go ahead and break it off. Then either drill & retap the street ell, or buy another one. The ell should come out of the head more easily (tho ISTR you have to remove the rocker cover).

    When you reassemble, use some teflon pipe dope on the threads, so they will come apart easily next time.
    Randall
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to TR3driver For This Useful Post:

    edkap2002  (08-12-2018)

  4. #3
    Great Pumpkin TR3driver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sunny So California
    Posts
    18,305
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    2
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    20
    Thanked in
    18 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    PS, you won't find them at the usual parts stores, but places like McMaster Carr do carry hose clamps that are entirely stainless steel rather than just the band. I got annoyed at the screws rusting, so I've been slowly converting.
    Eg, https://www.mcmaster.com/#54155k21/=1e4h7pw
    Randall
    56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
    71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
    71-72-73 Stag LE2013LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to TR3driver For This Useful Post:

    edkap2002  (08-12-2018)

  6. #4
    Senior Member Alfred E. Neuman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Decatur, GA
    Posts
    91
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    0
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    6
    Thanked in
    6 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    In addition to the PB Blaster, I'm a big fan of shocking threads with (slight) impact to get them to cooperate. Sneaking up on maximum torque will break threaded connections and tools much more easily than applying a "snap" load to the fitting, so long as you're not applying 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench level forces to it. A quick tug on the wrench, or smacking the wrench with a hammer is about as high as I would go, force wise.

    One thing I did to get some extremely stubborn head studs out of a TR3 engine was build a little dam out of modeling clay around the stud. FILLED that thing with PB Blaster and let it sit. Tapped the top of the stud with a hammer to shock it every day or so. After less than a week the thing came right out.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Alfred E. Neuman For This Useful Post:

    edkap2002  (08-12-2018)

  8. #5
    Member edkap2002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hunter, NY
    Posts
    29
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    3
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    0
    Thanked in
    0 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    Sounds like good advise...I will give that a whirl

  9. #6
    Member edkap2002's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hunter, NY
    Posts
    29
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    3
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    0
    Thanked in
    0 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    Quote Originally Posted by TR3driver View Post
    I would probably start by dosing the joint with PB Blaster every few days for a couple of weeks. Then at some point, I'd probably go ahead and break it off. Then either drill & retap the street ell, or buy another one. The ell should come out of the head more easily (tho ISTR you have to remove the rocker cover).

    When you reassemble, use some teflon pipe dope on the threads, so they will come apart easily next time.
    Thanks for the advise.....I am going to look for PB Blaster tomorrow...stay tuned...hopefully I wont end up crying out loud

  10. #7
    Luke Skywalker KVH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    1,853
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    0
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    1
    Thanked in
    1 Post

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    After all the lube, be sure your spanner fits snugly to the heater valve and that you're rotating with force square to the fitting. I've had that scare, but never a problem. On occasion I've had that the little pipe fitting come out with the valve. In fact, I think I preferred it that way once.

  11. #8
    Jedi Knight smaceng's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Martinez, CA
    Posts
    1,142
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    0
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    0
    Thanked in
    0 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    I little heat from a propane torch is one of my last resorts before I break something off. Also, don't just try to turn it c'clockwise. Go clockwise first, then c'clockwise. One direction then the other. Baby steps, is how I do it.
    1973 TR6

  12. #9
    Member Tr6easyrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Riverside, CA
    Posts
    31
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    0
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    0
    Thanked in
    0 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    Ed, you might want to replace the original valve with this.
    https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-...keywords=74648
    http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm

    No need for hose adapter from 1/2" to 5/8" just rub some oil inside the hose and on the barb of the valve.



  13. #10
    Yoda Gliderman8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,475
    Thanks Thanks Given 
    5
    Thanks Thanks Received 
    5
    Thanked in
    5 Posts

    Re: Heater Control Valve

    Quote Originally Posted by Tr6easyrider View Post
    Ed, you might want to replace the original valve with this.
    https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-...keywords=74648
    http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm

    No need for hose adapter from 1/2" to 5/8" just rub some oil inside the hose and on the barb of the valve.


    I have this heater valve on my 6 and it is so much better than the original. Also, I removed the detent ball from the control cable. Now I have infinite control of the valve.
    Elliot
    Central PA
    1976 TR6 White/Biscuit interior SOLD
    1973 TR6 Damson Plum / Biscuit interior, HVDA 5-speed, Good Parts Hubs
    Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •