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Overflow Bottle for BT7

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Deleted member 21878

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took Lilly out for the first test run more than a couple of miles.

first i was surprised how light the steering was. i expected it to be heavy to steer. just put on new V-classic sprint tires 165 HR 15's. i have 30 psi in them. read somewhere that seemed to be the right amount. is that too much?

second my temp gauge runs about 170-175, i'll say. i have a 160 thermostat in it. tomorrow when i take it out i plan to check the gauge with my infrared thermometer to see how it compares. could be it is off, could be it is accurate. i did test it before ever putting it in and it seemed pretty close. but it got me to thinking. one thing that helped with cars running hot in the old days was the addition of the overflow bottle.
i was going to come in and see about ordering a hot rod one but then i thought.... what if i got a washer fluid bottle and bracket for a BJ8 and used that for an overflow. any reason that would not work? anyone tried it before?

seems like it mounts in a good spot and high enough. just have to drill the cap for a larger hose.
 

steveg

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took Lilly out for the first test run more than a couple of miles.

first i was surprised how light the steering was. i expected it to be heavy to steer. just put on new V-classic sprint tires 165 HR 15's. i have 30 psi in them. read somewhere that seemed to be the right amount. is that too much?

second my temp gauge runs about 170-175, i'll say. i have a 160 thermostat in it. tomorrow when i take it out i plan to check the gauge with my infrared thermometer to see how it compares. could be it is off, could be it is accurate. i did test it before ever putting it in and it seemed pretty close. but it got me to thinking. one thing that helped with cars running hot in the old days was the addition of the overflow bottle.
i was going to come in and see about ordering a hot rod one but then i thought.... what if i got a washer fluid bottle and bracket for a BJ8 and used that for an overflow. any reason that would not work? anyone tried it before?

seems like it mounts in a good spot and high enough. just have to drill the cap for a larger hose.

It'll work. You add a thin gasket inside of your radiator cap so when the car cools down, it pulls the coolant back into the radiator. You'd also need a vent hole in the bottle cap. Make sure your hose is long enough to reach the bottom of the bottle. Add a little coolant there so it doesn't suck air.

RadCapWgasket.jpg
 
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steveg

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Moss sells the MG tanks new - PN 459-690. Faithful repro - made of brass. Also sell the mounting strap.
I made a clamp fitting behind my fender brace. The cap on the tank is either left loose or gutted so the tank can vent to ambient pressure.

screenshot.1275.jpg
 

bob hughes

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Not sure about the overflow bottle, I have never found the need for one over this side of the pond.

Regarding your tyre pressures - 30psi is fine - I use that pressure all round.

:cheers:

Bob
 

RAC68

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Hi All,

Although a pressurized overflow bottle cam on my TR7. I prefer the non-pressurized approach for my Healey. The non-pressurized system required the replacement of the original radiator cap with a Balkamp 703-1411 purchased at NAPA which allows for fluid recovery. Since the tank is not pressurized, any 2 qt, capped container will do. For me, my selection was an empty gear oil container that fit inconspicuously on a small platform created between the radiator and fender and could be easily removed. Rerouting the overflow hose through a hole made in the overflow container cap was the last activity for this installation. It has served well over a number of years with no further consideration.

100_0267.jpg mini-Recovery Container.jpg Coolant Recovery.jpg 100_0265[1].jpg

Simple, effective, and inexpensive,

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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do you think the washer bottle is big enough? my guess is it holds about 24-30 oz of fluid. smaller than the one on my TR6 but it is not like the TR empties or fills the bottle when in use.
 

RAC68

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I would say "Try it". There will be a time that more liquid may be expelled from the radiator and lost to the ground. However, hopefully this will not be often. If this occurs too often, just select a little bigger bottle from the recycling bin in the kitchen or you can also select a more conventional container from any of the auto parts suppliers. Either way, your choice is endless and your cost is nothing to minimal.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

RAC68

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Hi All,

Keep in mind that if you are using an original radiator core and tank configuration as well as an original 4-blade fan, heat dissipation on a hot summer day's drive may not be sufficient to retain a measure of coolant that can be retained in a quart container. However, with the addition of more radiator core rows, a more aggressive cooling fan or other additions to increase cooling capacity, an even smaller container may be sufficient to retain overflow. Since these cooling system factors have not been addressed prior to the responses, the replacement of the initially selected non-pressurized overflow container is both inexpensive and easy to accomplish.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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I had considered the over-flow bottle decades ago but was told it is not necessary if you fill the radiator properly. Standard sleeved thermostat, original fan, and 50/50 antifreeze.The fluid should be 1 inch below the top. It hasn't leaked or over flowed even in the hottest driving conditions. Maybe I'm just lucky.
 

Bob_Spidell

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I had considered the over-flow bottle decades ago but was told it is not necessary if you fill the radiator properly. Standard sleeved thermostat, original fan, and 50/50 antifreeze.The fluid should be 1 inch below the top. It hasn't leaked or over flowed even in the hottest driving conditions. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Same here (except I have a Texas Cooler in the BJ8).
 
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second day of testing. outside temp here is in the mid to upper 60's. certainly not hot.

i am running a standard thermostat. not a sleeved one. (160*/ new from Moss) also have a new radiator cap from Moss / 7 lb. engine was just rebuilt. i blew out all the ports after the tanking. tried my best to get it all cleaned out. i did check my gauge with an infrared thermometer today and with the car running, the gauge is right on what i shot. when the car is off the gauge seems to go up higher than the gun.

6 blade metal fan.

radiator was flushed while working on engine. radiator guy said it was very clean, had a new core in it flushed out well. i do believe it is a standard number of cores.

did a few runs today:

first one was mostly highway driving, maybe 8-10 miles. the car ran up to 180 almost right away and stayed there until i got home. rpm mostly in the 2300 to 2500 range.

second run was in town, maybe 5 miles if that. car again ran at 180 although it was a little closer to say 185.

thrid run i ran in town first then circled out thru the country most of the way home. again probably 10 miles or so. this time it ran 180 in town but ran up to 190 when i got running highway speeds. it stayed at 190 until i got home even as i slowed down to a lower RPM.

so i am not sure if this is what i should expect. seems a little scary to me that it runs 190 with the weather not hot.

i have checked the thermostat in a pan of water and it seemed to open ok at 165 or so. the gauge on the car will run up to 190 before the thermostat opens. then drops back to 150 or so. fluctuates a little until it gets steady at one temp.

the radiator cap is new also. now i think i had put too much coolant in it. so i epxect a little to blow out. after i shut the car off each time today, i would get coolant thru the overflow tube.
after the third run and the engine shut off. of course it gets hotter then and i can hear the coolant going thru the cap. see pic:
IMG_2406.jpg

again this could be from having too much fluid in the radiator. i think i filled it once to right below the neck figuring it would equal itself out.

i had a thought today about adding some water wetter to the mix. i have heard good things about it from some TR6 people. has anyone tried that here?

also thinking of adding the overflow.

i have also made up a little cover to go between the frame rails under the engine up to about 6" from the oil pan. i had read that keeping air under the car helps to pull air thru the engine bay.

do i need to get a sleeved thermostat? does it make that much difference?

any other thoughts?

Thanks
 

gonzo

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Road condition, ambient temperature, air flow, cooling and overall engine "health" etc. significantly influence operating temperature. A new engine will run hotter and deliver lower MPGs relative to one that's been "broken-in". Continue to drive; monitor the Healey's vital signs like your doing. If engine temps creep toward 200+F on the gauge during "normal" drives and the radiator is original / reproduction 2 row, then plan for a 3 of 4 row re-core. It's good to know you are now enjoying the Healey experience...warts and all! GONZO
 

John Turney

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I have a 165F thermostat in mine. On a 60F day it will run at 165F. When the day goes above 70F, the engine temperature starts to climb so it is ~90F above ambient, no matter if I'm driving in town or on the highway. On a really hot day, the passengers overheat before the car.

I installed a thermostat bypass blanking sleeve, Moss 434-135, to keep from recirculating uncooled coolant through the engine. It's less expensive than the sleeved thermostat.

Coolant overflow will happen until the coolant level reaches equilibrium. It's not necessary in a Healey unless you have a pet who might like the taste. I have two of them, so I have an unpressurized coolant overflow tank. They also keep air out of the system, which may reduce corrosion. I used to have a TR4A, and the coolant overflow tank was absolutely necessary, but that was because the radiator cap on the TR wasn't the high point of the system.

Also, make sure air isn't recirculating around the radiator, especially around the sides.
 

RAC68

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British cars of this era achieved quick warmup through the use of a thermostat bypass passage that allowed coolant to flow directly to the pump without going through the thermostat or radiator. The Sleeved or Cylinder Thermostat is designed to block this bypass when the thermostat openes and, by doing so, would allow all coolant to now pass through the radiator for cooling.

If you are not using a Sleeved Thermostat, as much as 25% of your coolant will remain not passing through the radiator after the thermostat opens and the result in a hotter running engine.

There are many other cooling conditions that have been address over the years and discussed on other threads. I would search these additional threads for additional direction.

What ever you do, keep Enjoying your Healey,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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i had read about the sleeved thermostat just never knew why it was better. So i ordered a sleeve tonight to try with my thermostat. also ordered a bottle and bracket for a BJ8 to give a try on an overflow. plus i wanted to get a new pinion seal anyway so got that done.

i did check my timing again yesterday and it was dead on 15* BTDC. i had made a couple of covers for the sides of the radiator and they seem to be holding up fine. i should think they would stop the air wrap around. also made a stop to fit under the radiator to keep air from coming in. only piece i have not put on was the piece i made to go on the bottom of the frame and extend back.

So i think i am pretty good... except for the recirculating coolant. missed that one.

DSCN0414.jpg

as always thanks for the info
 
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I use an old (brass?) MG overflow container. Think I stole the idea from Randy Forbes. Works well.
LOL!

IMG_4693.jpg


IMG_4695.jpg


This is off a >'68 Midget, but they were also fitted to late MGBs too, and probably some Triumphs. I found this NOS one at an All British car show, for about $40.00 LESS than the guy a few tables down was selling reproduction ones! It WORKS, as the siphon tube reaches near the bottom, so as the radiator cools down, it pulls back any coolant it had pushed out while heating up__no more puddles on the ground! The overflow can must be vented to atmoshere at all times though, or it won't work; I use a modified radiator cap that's no longer "pressurized."

I'd be concerned about the washer bottle being able to cope with the hot liquid. Also, just because you're running a 160* thermostat, that's no guarantee the engine won't run above that__170-175* is pretty good though, and I wouldn't worry about it (actually, I DON'T worry about it, that's about where mine runs too, though I no longer remember what the t/stat's calibration value is)

Funny, I thought I had posted this immediately after dcarly's comment; I guess I never hit Post Quick Reply! Very NICE to know that you can come back 1=1/2 days later and ALL the content has been saved!!
 
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