Size of axle bearing nut

Want to get right socket to remove the nut holding rear axle bearing hub on. Any idea of size?

This thread has info on the wrenches available for the octagon nut:
Removing Passenger Rear Bearing Nut

Tried a different search wording, thanks for proper wording Steve.

CaptRandy said:

Want to get right socket to remove the nut holding rear axle bearing hub on. Any idea of size?

Click to expand...

I had ordered one of the then commercially available stamped tube types, but delivery was long in coming, so I made this one to get the job done. Once the store-bought piece arrived, I was not impressed with its quality, but a member here was still willing to take it off my hands.

I continue to use my homemade socket...





I don't remember the dimensions I used__I scribed the nut's outline onto the blued steel block__before whittling it out with an end-mill cutter, but Michael Oritt claims it's a 2-3/16" and John Turney says a 56mm fits (his Metric socket was sourced from AH Spares). In any case, just make sure it's an eight-point socket (for square or octagon-shaped fasteners) or it won't work.

Note: I would've bought a conventional forged steel socket, had I been able to locate one, but even all the machine-tool suppliers I frequent had none listed for this size/configuration.

Speaking of ordering one from AH Spares, I placed an order with them that they received on Tuesday of last week and I received the parts on Thursday. I was quite surprised they came so quickly.

Randy--

I'm not 100% sure but I believe any post I may have made about the size of the "BIG NUT" refers not to a BIG Healey axle but to one on the end of a BMC "A" axle used, in various lengths, on many English cars including spridgets,. Morris-Minors, some Austins and countless small-prod cars such as my Elva Courier and Ginetta G4. In fact I have experienced variation of 1/8" in nuts I have purchased from various sources and usually carry a variety of large sockets with me when racing. It is good to grind the chamfer of the end of the socket to get a better, more solid fit.

I believe it is 2 3/16" . Borrowed the socket--it's the size of a tea cup--from a fellow club member. Also borrowed the 1" ratchet and extension to go with it. Happily, didn't need to use any of it.

Randy Forbes said:

I had ordered one of the then commercially available stamped tube types, but delivery was long in coming, so I made this one to get the job done. Once the store-bought piece arrived, I was not impressed with its quality, but a member here was still willing to take it off my hands.

I continue to use my homemade socket...

I don't remember the dimensions I used__I scribed the nut's outline onto the blued steel block__before whittling it out with an end-mill cutter, but Michael Oritt claims it's a 2-3/16" and John Turney says a 56mm fits (his Metric socket was sourced from AH Spares). In any case, just make sure it's an eight-point socket (for square or octagon-shaped fasteners) or it won't work.

Note: I would've bought a conventional forged steel socket, had I been able to locate one, but even all the machine-tool suppliers I frequent had none listed for this size/configuration.

Click to expand...

Is this one for the RH- or LH-threaded nuts?

This is the 1/4" steel one I bought from Healey Surgeons around 2000.

Well that shows you how little I know including about what I have previously said!

Bob_Spidell said:

Is this one for the RH- or LH-threaded nuts?

Click to expand...

That depends almost entirely by which direction I flip the swivel-head on the breaker bar; exceptions are only allowed when it's snapped onto the end of a torque wrench.



A point to note about torque wrenches: regardless of how often you check/calibrate your tools, it's going to be more accurate in RH mode than in LH mode.
I keep my eyes open for a decent-priced torque wrench tester, but they don't show up all that often in any of the places I've looked.

I use the box spanner type sold by AH Spares. IT IS STAMPED 2-13/64 and a 3/4" breaker bar, it works for me, but I want to install a mandrel into it to fit up into the axle tube to give it stability as the nut is very thin. I have the steel to do it, along with the anvil section that also fits up the axle tube for the hub puller to bare against, but just lacking the will at the moment.



Bob