• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Like John I have decided to open another thread for the reassembly of the TR3.

I went ahead and got the leaf springs from Eaton Springs. They were higher than the ones from Rimmer Bro. ones but they look much better. Because the original material is no longer available they were made using 5160 steel which is stronger so he went with 5 leaves and calculated it would give about 150 lb rate. They are tapered at the ends like the drawing shows and when I put one in my crude tester I got 134 lb/1" of movement.

The front to rear brake pipe was a bit too long and as I do not have the flaring tool I decided to make a loop in the pipe to lose the extra.

Replaced the Fork. Operating shaft and bearings in the clutch release mechanism. The square headed pin in the old one was sheared off and it took a lot of effort to get the old one out.

Got the motor and gearbox mounted in the frame. I drained the gearbox oil and noticed it was kind of black. Probable long past time to change it. Will any 80/90 weight GL4 work in the gearbox. I think that there is a tractor 80/90 GL4 for old Fords available locally.

David
Brake pipe too long.jpg
Pipe too long.

Springs.jpg
Any idea what this clip is for? It is right behind the axle retaining strap on the passengers side.
 

Attachments

  • Clip on frame.jpg
    Clip on frame.jpg
    56.1 KB · Views: 302
  • Motor back in frame.jpg
    Motor back in frame.jpg
    73.4 KB · Views: 405

charleyf

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
David,
That clip is for the fuel tank overflow tube. Once you get the body on and the fuel tank in ,you will be looking for that clip.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Yup, sure does. I blocked mine off to avoid that; let the tank vent through a small hole in the inner cap.
 

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Looking Good Dave!!!!!. You probably know this, but like you said you are putting together a boxed up project. Well anyways see how the E brake cable has that slack, and it just kinda blowing in the wind. There is a hook/eyelet on the tub and I saw yours was bent over in a previous post. Well there is a spring that goes in the eyelet and then grabs the E-brake cable and pulls it up. If you need it, I will try and find a pic.
Peace out
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
scihrkv.jpg
 

kstanley44

Member
Country flag
Offline
For the "long" front to rear brake line did you leave the loop where the jacking point on the frame is? See the upside downpict.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2245.jpg
    IMG_2245.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 218

TRMark

Jedi Knight
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
I bought GL4 at a local ag store, can use it in my TR4 and in the 42 John Deere B. How very convenient.
 
OP
D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Thanks for the hand brake cable tip.

I did do the loop for the jack. If I had known I would have made the loop bigger.

Spoke to the local John Deere dealer and he said that GL4 has been discontinued and deleted from their system? Napa said just use GL5 it will be fine. Probable order it from TRF.

David
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Napa said just use GL5 it will be fine.

There are two potential problems with GL5; which your NAPA may not be aware of:
1) Some GL5 formulations use more of a particular additive that can, over time and usage, break down and corrode the brass components inside the gearbox. I suspect (but cannot prove) that was the cause of this thrust washer (from a Stag differential) being so black and worn.
dcPNPcM.jpg


2) Some GL5 oils (mostly synthetics?) can be too slick for good synchro operation. Synchros are basically a brass-on-steel friction clutch; so you don't want oil that will protect against that.

Personally, I'm rather fond of Redline MT-90 and use it in all my Triumph gearboxes. Kind of expensive, but it is GL4 and optimized for synchro operation. Made a distinct improvement for me; and I've heard from others that it actually reduced or eliminated "clash" (a sign of a slipping synchro ring) when shifting.
See https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil for more info/advertising copy.
 

TRMark

Jedi Knight
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
Bought my GL4 at Shiptons, a local farm supply store.
 

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Dave I have used detergent free 30 weight oil in my gear boxes for 45 years and they shift fine and look good on the inside. The manual and the Haynes book says that is what to use. I believe Randall showed how the manual was updated to something else, but I have been comfortable dumb about it for 45 years. I do drive conservatively.
 
OP
D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
It was TRF or Moss. More likely TRF as I get more from them I will check to see if I can find my order. I do not keep the invoices in a folder because I don't want to know how much this is costing me. It is worth it as I am having a blast brining the old girl back to like.
I do recall reading about people using 30 weight oil. My Ford Ranger manual uses ATF in the gearbox. I had to go back and double check before I refilled it.

David
 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
David,

Do you happen to have a Miller Oil distributor close to you? They do GL4 and lots of other stuff.

Cheers
Tush
 

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Must have been TRF because the Moss ones are lighter weight. Did you order recently? TRF is real good about original stuff, but I often forget that, just burnt out I guess?
 
OP
D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I found the spring tab. Lucky it did not get caught up in the repair in that area because I did not realize what it was. It was so bent over and that area was a bit trashed when the PO replaced the floor.
I have straightened it out now.
Thank you for the Heads Up on that.


David
 
OP
D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Just recieved the center exhaust hanger from TRF. Should it be painted? If so what colour?

The one that came in ythe kit was missing parts. There was a new rear hanger but only the partial center one. There was a New SS exhaust system included.

Just home long enough to open car parts packages then on the road again.

David
 
OP
D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I have been spending too much time out of town with short breaks at home.

Bit of an up date on my progress.

I have the under body fixed, painted with PUR15, primed and painted with the final colour. The body is mounted on the frame and I have the inside of the body painted.

I have to fit the doors and cut out the braces, Hopefully nothing moves when the braces are cut out.

David


Getting the underside sand blasted.jpg
POR15 on the underside.jpg
Car front 5.15.18.jpg
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
W Rear Hub Reassembly Austin Healey 7
B Body Reassembly Austin Healey 2
Popeye TR4/4A Door reassembly Triumph 9
G TR4/4A Inner Door Reassembly Questions Triumph 4
Jim_Gruber Pedal Box - Reassembly - Any issue with adding a spacer in the middle of the pedals Spridgets 5
R A Type Overdrive reassembly question Austin Healey 3
D TR2/3/3A The next stage of reassembly Triumph 9
J Chassis general reassembly sequence Austin Healey 17
K TR2/3/3A Front end reassembly: trunnion spindles and wishbone bushes??? Triumph 10
mgedit TR2/3/3A 56 TR3 Lockheed MC Reassembly Triumph 8
B Bugeye Reassembly Order Spridgets 9
TulsaFred Hydraulic system disassembly-reassembly Spridgets 10
F Tight Crankshaft [engine reassembly] Spridgets 45
M TR2/3/3A TR3 rockershaft disassembly/reassembly Triumph 5
T Trailing arm reassembly question Triumph 3
G Picture Modification for Reassembly? Triumph 9
T steering cam reassembly and dates Triumph 3
M E-type hood reassembly Jaguar 6
drooartz Hub reassembly Spridgets 4
TexasSprite Windshield reassembly in a BE? Spridgets 7
zimmy first night drive since the reassembly! Spridgets 11
John_Mc handbrake reassembly Triumph 6
A Emergency Brake Handle Correct Reassembly Order ? Austin Healey 2
H door reassembly question MG 2
Moseso Rocker shaft dis/reassembly Triumph 3
R BJ7 body panel reassembly- seals etc question Austin Healey 7
fabmandan Trans Reassembly Help Spridgets 3
tony barnhill T-Series 1953 MG TD Reassembly - CONTINUOUSLY UPDATED MG 281
H Help with 100-6 Oil Filter Canister Reassembly Austin Healey 6
B Fulcrum pin reassembly Spridgets 2
R Rear hub reassembly [Rotoflex] Triumph 3
71TR6 TR6 TR6 Seat Track Reassembly Triumph 4
beebopbogo Engine dissassembly/reassembly MG 6
R E Type Reassembly Jaguar 1
Westcoast M5 The Journey Begins - BJ8 restoration Austin Healey 74
JPSmit MGA - on a journey Spotted 9
D TR2/3/3A My Trim journey. Triumph 16
D TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey. Triumph 166
sd80mac7204 Spitfire Photo journey: Spitfire rebuild Triumph 6
S Epic Journey Spridgets 7
bugedd The journey begins....maybe Spridgets 9
JPSmit Amazing Journey in a Midget Spridgets 2
J The journey to save a family treasure! Spridgets 8
hondo402000 TR6 TR6 Painting Journey almost over Triumph 9
B 2000 mile journey ahead MG 5
JPSmit Today's journey great start - home on a flatbed Spridgets 39
AUSMHLY The Journey here is great! Austin Healey 2
Bret What’s in your scabbard – A sentimental journey. Restoration & Tools 17

Similar threads

Top