• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Bench bleed tips

bugedd

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
I am going to reinstall my master on the Bugeye and thought a bench bleed would be a good idea. Any tips on this? I went to my local auto parts store and they don't carry kits for this. And I don't have any extra flare fittings and brake line. Anything else I can use?
 

zabond

Member
Country flag
Offline
secure the cyl vice or clamp to bench, fill with fluid, slowly push piston down and hold, put your finger over the outlet to seal, slowly release the piston, repeat til all air is out, put a piece of tape over the outlet and reinstall, remove the tape and reconnect the pipe, don't push piston down again until pipes are connected and a bleed nipple is open, then bleed as normal
Russ
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
If you want fittings, visit the plumbing section of the hardware store. Look for barbed hose fittings with a 1/8NPT thread. Chase those threads with a 3/8-24 die. (You'll have to work a bit at this... 1/8NPT is larger than 3/8-24). Place your modified fitting in the master cylinder discharge port. Use a length of rubber hose on the barbed fitting looped back into the MC reservoir.

As an alternate, IF you had (I know you said you don't) any left over old British hydraulic lines (they don't have to be new) cut the end off one leaving the nut in place and an inch or so of tubing. You can thread that into the MC and connect the rubber hose to the short length of tubing.

If you want to buy a kit, call local parts stores looking for Dorman part number 13910.
 
OP
bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
And what brake fluid is best?
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
And what brake fluid is best?

That question can potentially start a multi-page thread as people respond with lots of opinions. There are reasons for DOT-4, DOT-3, and DOT-5.

How much of the braking system have you replaced or rebuilt?
 

glemon

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I have never figured out how I am going to put a line on an already filled MC without dripping fluid everywhere. My "bench bleed" method is crude, but easy, and has worked for me. I install the master cylinder, fill it, then loosen the attachment where the main brake line goes into the master cylinder, a couple turns or so. Then put a bunch of old rags under and around where the brake line exits the MC. Couple slow pumps until fluid comes out of the loose fitting (best with a helper, but I have done it alone) then tighten the fitting back up, remove the rags and bleed as usual. No special fittings/lines and minimal mess.
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
I have also used the method glemon described. It's what I did for years before I found out there are kits with fittings and tubing. Like glemon said, bench bleeding is typically somewhat messy no matter what the method. Rags are your friend.
 
OP
bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Hey Doug,
The brake system was done by the PO, front disc conversion with larger rear drums. Thats about my extent of knowledge of it.
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
My concerns are as follows.

The original brake rubber up to sometime in the mid-1970s was natural rubber. It was compatible with DOT-4 but not DOT-3. Any brake system fully rebuilt after the 1970s should have rubber that is compatible with DOT-3 and DOT-4. That must include all the rubber (cylinder seals, brake hoses, proportioning valves, etc).

Your car probably doesn't have original rubber brake parts left in it at this point. However, if you want to be 100% safe, flush the system and use DOT-4. Replace the fluid every two years or so to prevent problems.
 

Gerard

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Regarding your question about bench bleeding, I don’t think you necessarily need to do that with the product I’ve provided. The MC is assembled with a special assembly lube, so you should be able to develop good pressure from the start on the brake side. The clutch side does not have a residual pressure valve, so they can be a little more challenging, however, if you follow the open-pedal down-close bleeder-let pedal up -repeat routine, it shouldn’t be too bad. The best solution is to add a remote bleeder to the slave cylinder. I’ve done that for the last 25 years and I can bleed a clutch in about 3 minutes. A speed bleeder works well also, but still have the issue with access. Whatever you do, make sure bleeder is in the uppermost port; sometimes they are assembled incorrectly.
 
OP
bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
As I lay here sick with the flu, I have little else to do than ponder car stuff. Question, when replacing the master, why not bleed to the passenger front, the shortest distance, if the goal is to remove air and not do a full bleed?
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
If you are really good and confident no air is in other parts of the system you can indeed do a partial bleed. However, it takes only a little more effort (and fluid) to bleed the whole system. If you do the whole system you will know that there is no trapped air AND you will have removed all the old dirty fluid that was in the system.
 

Gerard

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
I agree, especially the part about flushing all the old fluid out. Moisture, debris and degraded rubber bits will migrate through the system if your old fluid is contaminated with same, which it likely is.

If you are really good and confident no air is in other parts of the system you can indeed do a partial bleed. However, it takes only a little more effort (and fluid) to bleed the whole system. If you do the whole system you will know that there is no trapped air AND you will have removed all the old dirty fluid that was in the system.
 
OP
bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
I had the brakes bled last year, but I suppose you're right. I have little else to do right now with the rain and being sick. About how many pumps does it take for the fresh fluid in the reservoir to rear the rear caliper?
 

JPSmit

Moderator
Staff member
Silver
Country flag
Offline
how many pumps does it take for the fresh fluid in the reservoir to rear the rear caliper?

What is the sound of one hand clapping?

If a tree falls in the forest?...

How many angels dance on the head of a pin?

yoda.jpg


You are becoming wise in the way of the force.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
T TR2/3/3A Bench Bleed Girling Master Cylinder Triumph 2
John_Mc Bench bleed slave cylinder? Triumph 4
Crankshaft TR2/3/3A Bench Bleeding Triumph 8
rgfrey Bench Bleeding Brake Master Cylinder Austin Healey 2
JimLaney Bench Testing starter Spridgets 8
TomMull Desmond Stephen bench vise Restoration & Tools 0
Tinkerman TR2/3/3A SU H6 Rebuild Bench Test Triumph 3
K TR4/4A Generator bench testing..... Triumph 6
F 12Volt Bench Power Supply Austin Healey 4
B Smiths RVI Positive Ground Tachometer Bench Test ? Austin Healey 24
P Bench Testing a wiper motor???? Spridgets 3
M Healey Overdrive Bench Testing Austin Healey 2
steveg Calculating front bearing shims on the bench Austin Healey 8
mgedit Bench Bleeding Master and Slave Cylinders Triumph 5
T Bench testing a coil Austin Healey 3
Banjo bench-top mill Restoration & Tools 1
T How bench test Pertronix unit Triumph 3
Tinkerman Bench Testing a Wired Instrument Cluster Triumph 7
K TR2/3/3A TR3:What year did they switch to the rear bench... Triumph 9
Tinkerman Bench Testing Electrical Components Triumph 13
Bruce Bowker Bench Vise Restoration & Tools 9
drooartz Soon this bench will be covered in greasy bits... Spridgets 4
TimK running wiper motor on the bench Austin Healey 4
CraigLandrum Rebuilding and bench testing a fuel gauge? Triumph 9
Shealey can someone explain how to bench test wiper motors Spridgets 11
D alternator charges on bench but not in 95 XJ6 Jaguar 4
vping Bench testing the Generator MG 15
A TR4/4A TR4A control box bench testing Triumph 4
John Loftus bench test wiper motor Austin Healey 2
J Bench Press Restoration & Tools 4
wkilleffer MGB MGB clutch slave bleed driving me nuts MG 38
K TR2/3/3A Another brake bleed question....... Triumph 17
WHT Remote Clutch Slave Cylinder Bleed Extension Austin Healey 11
W TR4/4A Hydralic bleed Triumph 4
G Brake/clutch resevoid replaced do I have to bleed the system Austin Healey 9
Jim_Gruber Did my clutch just bleed itself? Spridgets 11
K TR4/4A Hey CJD...gravity bleed clutch MC and slave? Triumph 6
princetn1 MGB Clutch Bleed MG 3
M General MG Midget clutch bleed - engine out MG 3
trotti Access to the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw Austin Healey 41
AngliaGT 1275 - Just HOW Do I Bleed the Slave Cylinder? Spridgets 4
T TR2/3/3A Only women bleed Triumph 8
K TR2/3/3A Clutch bleed using"gravity bleed" method? Triumph 4
M Bn-2 Windshield Seal Paint Bleed Austin Healey 8
jlaird Brake bleed niples Spridgets 34
K TR2/3/3A TR3A with TR6 trans Clutch Bleed Issue Resolved. Triumph 6
K TR2/3/3A TR3A Clutch Slave Bleed Issue? Triumph 8
D BN2 master cylinder bleed Austin Healey 2
B Bleed Screws Spridgets 2
bugedd Brake bleed question Spridgets 9

Similar threads

Top