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TR2/3/3A Tub gap between Frame Drivers side

DornTRoriginal

Jedi Hopeful
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I decided to go ahead and try to re mount the tub to my frame, I found that the body shop installed 4 rubber pads at each mounting point (they glued them together in fact but did it just like the drawing indicated :grief:smile: and then tighten the wholly crap out of the bolts, then to add to the mess either striped or removed some of the bolts welded to the frame. Needless to say it is a horrible job. I got the pads out and was able to get the tub in a better position by minimizing the number of pads relative to the positioning of the tub to the frame, the tub is now resting on the rubber mounting strips "pretty well" on the right (passenger) side however there is a 3/8 inch gap on the left (drivers) side at the point where the tunnel cover meets the tunnel mounted to the floor. A little background is the drive shaft came loose while in tow causing significant damage to the floor and the rear tunnel area. I supplied the body shop with a donated tunnel piece and drawings + pictures + Moss Catalog + verbal instructions etc. and they managed to: extend the tunnel longer than it needs to be and I think the way it was constructed has caused the left side of the tunnel section to sit too low (what I am calling the high point) and not allowing the tub to sit any lower. from that point forward. The gap is about 2 1/2 feet long from the point where the tunnel is welded to the tub to about mid point in the foot hole area.

As I see things there are three options, neither of which I am happy about Which is the lesser evil? Or is there another solution?

Option 1 - Find someone who is skilled to cut the tunnel enough to lower the high point thus raise the floor enough so floor area sits on the frame correctly. It would ruin the finish of the paint, be another expense which I am not wanting to spend more money and of course assuming I could find someone qualified and willing to do this work, unfortunately I don't weld and the area will not be very visible with carpeting installed.

Option -2 find some 3/8 inch thick rubber' strips and use them to fill the gap. The high point would continue to rub on the frame and the rubber is more than likely to disappear at some point and there is no way to keep any rubber on areas where the tub does not sit on the frame?

Option -3 (minimal option) cut the tunnel enough to allow the rubber plug to be installed and just let the gap on the drivers side go and move on maybe the weight of the seats and passengers will make everything fine, who needs rubber between the floor and the tub??

As always your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated? Thank you! First picture is the gap between the floor and the frame, Pic 2 is "high point" where the tub sits on the frame and there is a rubber strip between the frame and the tub pic 3 is the too long tunnel and the tunnel cover in place.

Tub and frame Gap.jpgTub to body High Point.jpgTunnel tooo Long.jpg
 

TexasKnucklehead

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Maybe you worry too much. If I understand your issue, you are unhappy with the fit between the floorboard and the frame, specifically where the long narrow rubber strip is placed between the frame and tub. I glued that rubber strip to the frame before installing the tub back onto the frame. After a few hundred miles, the rubber strip was hanging under the car, dragging along the ground, but still glued at one end between the frame and tub. I cut off the part that wasn't going to stay and haven't noticed an issue.

The first thing I'd try, is to loosen the transmission tunnel. I think you will find that once that is loosened from the floorboard, the floorboard will have much more flex. I would be careful to not take the bolts out the whole way, because re-starting them may present a challenge. I don't see the tunnel being too long presenting a problem as long as it is clear of the universal. You will have to modify the rubber plug. I used some metal foil tape across all the rubber, to keep them sealed and in place. As far as the captive nuts being stripped or gone, I think you'll find most TR3s to have that issue. As a concourse judge at a national event, I was able to show only one original car that had the captive nuts on the frame. Several owners attempted an argument that captive nuts were not original on TR3 frames. Your car will be fine without them, but tightening those bolts will become a little more difficult.

You've come too far to let this hold you back.
Jer
 
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DornTRoriginal

DornTRoriginal

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What me worry.... I think you are right it's a detail thing but in the grand scope of things not that important... moving on!
 

CJD

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A picture is worth a thousand words! I sense the tub fit is off...but cannot visualize how.
 
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