Lilly first time running in 15 years....

so i got her started. first time in 15 years i believe. my goal was to get it running and run it at about 2000 rpm for 15-20 minutes. all new valves and springs, etc. So i did accomplish my goal.

it wasn't a real success all the way around however.

don't know if i posted before but i first pulled off the oil line to the gauge until i had oil come out. then in a few cranks i got the oil pressure up. next before i put in plugs, i wired up the fuel pump and pressurized the fuel system.... first problem. my front carb had a sticking needle valve. so i pull that out and blew it out with air. put it back in and problem solved. good so far...

i could not figure how to get it timed (pertronix) so i set it close and just went with that. went thru my check list one more time; got out my fire extinguisher; made sure the garage door was up and nothing behind me in case i needed to back it out; and then double checked all the fluids.

all looked good so i figured.. what the heck... and i hit the starter button. i was getting some fire but it had that sound of wrong compression. once before i had that with my dad's model A and we had the timing off. so i advanced the timing and tried again. it took a few tries but then it fired up. the engine ran right up to 2000 rpms and stayed there. i pushed the choke off but it did not change. i only had the idle screws turned one screw in but i tried to back them off a 1/2 turn. no change.

i wanted to run it at 2000 so i let it go as it was and just kept an eye on the temp gauge. at about 190 i noticed some drips of something on the fender. i looked down and the thermostat housing was starting to leak... well not really starting, it was leaking. i was about 10 minutes in to my run so i tried to hold a rag there to keep the fluid from blowing everywhere. fought thru it for about another 5 minutes and by then the temp was approaching 200. i figured that was enough and i shut it down. put more rags around the cover and decided it was time to go sit on the front porch in the rocking chair and have a cigar.

don't under estimate the power of a good cigar.... after about 15 minutes, it hit me... i bet i did not tighten up the vacuum line on the distributor. i bet that thing was sucking air like crazy. sure would explain the high RPM. dummy. too excited hearing it run to think i guess.

after it cooled (and i finished my cigar) i went out and pulled the cover off the thermostat. i knew it was sketchy at best since it was pretty corroded. So i have ordered a new one.

good things: i held 60 psi oil pressure for the whole run. i did not see any oil leaks with the engine. i saw no leaks around the head gasket. no traces of oil in the anti-freeze / see below and oil looks good as well. it ran very well, albeit 2000 RPM. i did slow it to about 1000 with the timing before i shut it off.

bad things: well the cover of course. although that is an easy fix. i brought in the thermostat to make sure it was opening all the way by placing it in a pan of water on the stove. it was new but you never know. i also have a leak at the radiator drain tap. i bought a new one from Moss. i did not use their plug in it and yes it leaks. if i wanted to use a plugged one... why not just use a plug. does anyone use a different brand tap there that holds? i have since put my old one back in.

So it was semi-succesful. i wanted to set timing anf the carbs but never got to it. i have Pertronix and was reading about trying to static time... they are not to be used with solid core wires. That sucks. So i also ordered a set of points and a new condenser with my cover. they are realatuvely cheap so i am going to put them in and see how it goes. really i don't drive that much. Maybe just keep an extra condenser in the tool bag.

so that is it for now. i still have some oil coming from the O/D lever on the side of the tran and have also noticed now a little oil coming from the front of the rear diff. both things i did not touch, other than to paint. the tran was a rebuilt one never used and the diff was supposed to have been gone thru.

i have capped the vacuum line so it will not be a factor next time i am ready to fire it up. need it capped to set the timing properly anyway. then i can uncap and make sure it is tight. or at least isolate if there is a vac leak and where it is.

note the fire extinguisher... think i was a little nervous....

Woo hoo!

Yes, a good feeling, and it didn't sling its innards, so chalk that up in the good column too.

A brand new engine is going to be a little tight and run on the hot side; I'd have let it run out the next five (>5) minutes, and not pulled the plug unless it was still climbing at 220* (ignition timing factors in here as well).

Go over all your checklist items, and give it another shot; tomorrow or ? whenever the urge strikes you (note: neighbors tend to be less supportive after 11:00 PM-Midnight, so don't let enthusiasm get the best of your judgement ).

Yep, that's a good feeling

Well waiting on the thermostat housing right now.

Good for you!!

See if you can find a good strong floor fan to help force air into the engine bay while its running . I have one of those fans they use when your house floods and they try to dry the carpets etc with it .
Congrats on getting it running . I know I jumped up and down like a kid in a candy store when I got the 67 running for the first time , that was my first full engine rebuild .
Then I realized I had to clean up all the mouse crap etc that blew out the exhaust up the wall in the garage .
Just get it running at a good fast idle 1500/2000 rpm and tweak it play with the timing carburation and just enjoy the fruits of your labour .

Thanks all.
it is nice to know it will run and run smoothly. once i get the new parts and get it set up, i plan to run it again for at least 10 minutes at a higher RPM. get it warmed up really good. i think part of the problem that it wanted to get hot was that the timing was off. if i get it set right i can run it for longer.

after the run i went around and looked for leaks anywhere and everywhere. of course the coolant was easy to pick up. i did not see any oil from the engine. the only other thing i noticed was a strong gas smell in the trunk. i took the covers off and the tire out etc. but i could not find any leak. i tightened the bands on the junction of the down pipe and the tank. but they were pretty tight. nothing was wet and nothing was dripping. So i am guessing my sending unit is leaking the fumes. i unscrewed the unit and tried to put some sealant on the gasket. i had had it sealed and then took it back off to rotate the sending unit so the arm was facing forward. not sure if that did not seal back up just right. left the trunk open tonight. i will close it in the morning and see if the fumes are still there. none of the carpet kit i took out or anything has a real gas smell so i figure it has to be fumes leaking thru. the gas tank is a new aluminum one so it should be fine. i only have a couple of gallons in there so if it continues i will drain it and get another new seal for the sending unit. or run it dry...

Fire Extinguisher = good idea on a new build. Not nervousness.

I've been running the Pertronix 1 with solid core wires for years. This is the basic unit that goes in your Lucas distributor. IMO the problem is the advancing timing lights won't work with solid core wires.

Yippee!

i bought the Pretronix ll unit. that is where i read the warning. it is the second line on the instructions. i have since read they can work fine but do not last with the solid core wires. something about the RF noise? if i get a chance i might call them and just see what they say. i have an extra Pertronix 1 unit for the TR6 i ended up with. i wondered about dropping that in also if it would fit.

steveg said:

.. IMO the problem is the advancing timing lights won't work with solid core wires.

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Some do. I have a Craftsman advance light that works fine with my stranded core wires. Problem is, it has a metal case and it's 'negative ground,' so bad things happen if it touches any metal on the car. I had a similar one with a plastic case, which worked fine as well and didn't produce fireworks, but it was stolen.

Great news! Looks like you'll get it tuned the way you want if you haven't already. Cigars help to slow the process down and contemplate next move. i noticed in your previous pics bubble bee solid core ignition wires - these are fine to use with Pertronix I. Alternatively, and if your distributor was rebuilt and recurved by Advance Distributors, run original points and condenser.

Now first driving impressions! Gonzo

Standard diz but the Pertronix is the ll model. so i am going to start with points as soon as they get here.

i was hoping to give a road test soon but... i have confirmed Lilly is a leaker. if she were in Washington, she would be in jail by now.

first it was the front carb but got that fixed.

second it was the thermostat cover and i have a new one on order.

Next it was the radiator petcock and after trying 5 different options today, i conceded defeat and put the plug in the top of the new one from Moss. so far no leak.

NOW... i had noticed a strong gas smell in the trunk. figured it was the sending unit. i sealed it and even sealed the screws. still the smell. so i undid the bands and slid a piece of paper under the tank. yup it came out wet. one little spot. this is a brand new aluminum tank that came with the car but the seam on the bottom right side leaks. not much but any leak is too much. So after i get my parts and try another firing, i will drain the tank and i guess get some tank sealer. it is a shame for a new tank but i did not test it before i put it in so i guess this is what i get.

headed south this week for about a month so right now i just hope to run the car again and then drain the tank. then start looking for a good sealer while i am gone. start that when i get back.

Oh the fun...

My aluminum tank developed a crack in the middle of the bottom. I repaired it with a two part epoxy product designed for the purpose. Bought it at a auto parts chain store. 14 months after the repair, no leaks or smell of fumes.

yeau, mine is like a pin hole in the seam. i have been reading about coatings and looking at the different brands. but then i am thinking for another hundred bucks over the coating i can buy a new tank. not sure which way i will go at this point.

also going up to the local auto parts store this morning and see if i can get a petcock that will fit and work as it should.

Drone Dog said:

yeau, mine is like a pin hole in the seam. i have been reading about coatings and looking at the different brands. but then i am thinking for another hundred bucks over the coating i can buy a new tank. not sure which way i will go at this point.

also going up to the local auto parts store this morning and see if i can get a petcock that will fit and work as it should.

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Make sure to read all the threads here__a few in just the Big Healey section, but probably in every other section too__about those of us that struggled to figure out fuel starvation problems. Quite often, traced back to the coating (or in some cases of uncoated tanks, just rust & debris) floating up and blocking the pickup tube.

I personally do not recommend going with any sort of sloshing-type coating. Either get the tank properly repaired** or try your luck with another replacement tank.



** an intelligent weldor KNOWS HOW to weld on a fuel tank (eliminate one of the three components of a fire, and no fire). Nowadays with the proliferation of aluminum radiators, a GOOD radiator shop may also be willing to fix the leak.

Do it right , get the repair welded , correctly . All you have to do is drain it let it dry throughout and make sure when they weld it its not sealed in any way , open to the atmosphere

yeau, i just wondered how a welder could find a pin hole to weld? there is a guy accross town who has a good welding business. i can check with him.

But then who knows if this tank develops another problem later. if it is going to cost me a 100 bucks, i may as well spend 200 and get a new tank. Get one from Moss and if it leaks, they can replace it.

just don't like to guess when it comes to gas....

Drone Dog said:

yeau, i just wondered how a welder could find a pin hole to weld? there is a guy accross town who has a good welding business.

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Compressed air and soap solution and mark where you want him to weld it.
leave the sender unit in use the outlet tube for pressure 1psi max get a plastic/ rubber plumbers test bung for the inlet opening .

hmmm, i should have kept my old emergency fuel pump from the MG