Valve cover gasket woes

Well, I don’t know if advice is what I need, but maybe a little moral support. I undertook what should be a rather simple job...replace valve cover gasket on my ‘57 100-6. I have had oil on the right side of my engine, so I am starting With the VC gasket and trying to address possible sources from the top down. I received the new gasket from the most likely source and commenced to remove the VC, clean it and prepare to install the gasket. I chose to use Hylomar AF to adhere the gasket to the VC, and here is where the frustration began to build.
The gasket seems to be slightly oversized compared to the VC. The VC has a slight flange in the metal, and I would assume the gasket should seat inside of the flange. Is my assumption correct? The gasket is sized such that it does not fit wholly on the high point of the flange (too small) or wholly inside the flange on the flat surface (too large). Logic tells me that if it rides on top of the flange at one point, and within the flange at another, then there will not be a seal to head surface.
My intention was to have a dry seal between the VC gasket and the head surface, but I am now thinking I may need to use sealant there, as well. Any input or experience is welcome. ~Tony

Tony - welcome to the Forum.

Use an adhesive, such as weatherstrip adhesive, to glue the gasket to the valve cover. Hylomar is a non-hardening sealant - use between the gasket and cyl head surface.

I will offer similar advice to Steve's. I follow the following procedure.

1. Clean both the top of the cylinder head and the seal track in the valve cover. Get them squeaky clean with no sealant or gasket residue.
2. Smear a THIN film of clean grease on the cylinder head all around the path where the gasket will sit.
3. Push the new gasket down into the grease and onto the head so it is in intimate contact.
4. Apply a small bead of RTV to the seal track in the valve cover.
5. Place the valve cover over the gasket nudging the gasket as necessary to fit the track.
6. Tighten the fasteners securing the valve cover FINGER TIGHT ONLY.
7. Wait several hours for the RTV to cure, then tighten the fasteners to their normal torque.

Why do this? You know the head and new gasket are "flat". The valve cover is likely somewhat distorted. The grease hold the gasket firmly and flatly against the head. The RTV will fill the gaps between the gasket and distorted cover. You can choose to use weatherstrip or trim adhesive if you want instead of RTV. The method remains the same.

Thanks guys. I ended up removing the gasket and carefully saving it in wax paper. Cleaned up the VC and applied gasket adhesive to the VC. Carefully laid the gasket on the head with Hylomar down, added a bead of gasket adhesive to top of gasket and installed VC, with acceptable evap times. Neat and tidy install and I feel confident the seal should be good. I appreciate the guidance.
Tony

I gave up on cork and purchased the silicone gasket from Gasket Innovations (Moss handles also) four years ago and no problems or leaks: Even after taking on and off more than several times! Just my experience with this product.

John

Just get one of the newer rubber type gaskets and you problem will be solved ,use the referenced installation procedures on the valve cover side OK..

I've had better luck with cork than rubber but YMMV.

I replaced the tach bushing oil seal after completing the VC gasket and took the car out for a drive. Couldn’t resist on a mid-70’s afternoon in GA. After the drive I popped the hood to inspect and I just happened to notice the tiniest bubble percolating out of the head gasket at cylinder 1. This coincides with the small amount of water I found above cylinder 1 when I removed the VC.
So, I guess head gasket replacement is on my short list. I checked Moss and they have a standard and upgrade gasket. Does anyone have experience with the upgrade gasket from Moss. Is it a high quality gasket, or should I look elsewhere?

Tony

Michael Oritt said:

I've had better luck with cork than rubber but YMMV.

Click to expand...

Likewise.

It took a long time for this ham-fisted mechanic to figure out that torque and sealant are poor substitutes for flat mating surfaces. Assuming them, I agree with Greg's procedure: glue the gasket to the cover and seal the gasket to the head.

Hi Tony. All good advise from the above posters. I thought I would tell you a little bit about that small amount of oil drip on the right front corner of the cylinder head. If you are seeing a water leak then I would definately fix it as soon as possible. But about the oil leak, I have had such the same leak at the front right side of my BJ7 cylinder head for about 3 summers now. And as many know I put quite a bit of miles on my car every year just last year touring the Smoking Mountains for 5 days. The oil lays just above the front tappet side cover plate and I usually wipe it down about once a week. I get about 2000 miles to a quart of oil so I don't consider the oil loss to be significant enough to tear the head off yet. I have watched it for 3 summers now and it has not gotten any worse. So just saying, maybe it's not worth it to change head gasket at this time. I believe the oil leak is coming from the front push rod hole. It is not under pressure.

I certainly appreciate the feedback. I am going to monitor the evidence of water. I did a pretty thorough clean with Gunk and water last fall, and the moisture was around the oil fill cap. I am hoping it did not come from engine. The oil I saw escaping was ever so small, fraction of a pin head. It was the bubbling that caught my attention. I think I have narrowed the major leak down to the dizzy seal.

Tony