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TR2/3/3A Hanbrake installation

DornTRoriginal

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The handbrake assembly was removed by my less than perfect body shop so I'm not at all sure how the assembly was removed and I've had to scramble to find the bits to reassemble everything. I think I've got it all however I'm having a difficult time getting the pawl and ratchet to work correctly. Followng the WSM instructions but not getting eveything to operate right. The ratchet will drop out when I release the buutton? The rod is rough but sufficient, maybe bent incorrectly?
I think pawl and ratchet are worn but everything was working fine until now during reinstall. Any suggestions? I don't think I can buy a new rod but replacing the pawl, rachet and cable might make sense? Dang this one is bothersome Thanks for the help!
 

CJD

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You are aware that the TR handbrake operates in reverse to other emergency brakes? I am not sure what you mean by the ratchet drops out? It should disengage when you release the button, but if it falls out of the lever then that is not normal.
 
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DornTRoriginal

DornTRoriginal

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Yea, I think I get the operation mechanism. The ratchet is number 15 in the drawing from the WSM. I think the operation involves the brake handle being pulled toward the rear of the car, the ratchet locks the lever by the pawl engaging. When the button is pressed it releases the handbrake because the pawl is pulled away from the ratchet allowing the lever to move forward and release the rear brakes. BTW it was a bugger to get the pivot bolt to line up and threaded. If I do change the pawland the rachet I hope I do not have to take out the pivot bolt! The way it is working now is when the lever is pulled back it does not lock and hold. I think this is because the pawl and the rachet are "striped" and do not engage? Here some pics! Thanks for the help!
Handbrake Assembly disassembled.jpg
Rachet at lever base.jpgLever inside car.jpgassembled lever and cable underside.jpgRachet and lever underside.jpg
 

charleyf

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Your description of how the handbrake works is not correct. You pull the handbrake back then push the thumb button down and while holding the button down allow the handbrake to move forward. It is then locked into position. To release the handbrake ONLY pull it back without touching the button . It is then released. The photos of the pawl and ratchet don't look like they are a problem.
 

CJD

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Yep, when you described “dropping out”, it sounded like normal operation. If set up properly , the brake can be pulled back, modulated, and released at will WITHOUT touching the button. The button is only used to SET the parking brake, but not to release it. It makes sense when you remember it is designed as an actual hand brake first...a parking brake second.
 

DavidApp

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I have heard of them being described as a racing hand brake. Unlike a normal hand brake there is no chance of it locking on unless you press the button as you release the handle.

David
 

CJD

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It’s funny how confused everyone gets with it. Every time I get the car inspected i cannot get the tech to understand to “keep your thumb off the button”. Until you understand it, everyone just keeps pulling harder while pushing the button. I’ve often had to use both hands to release it after they have guerilla fisted it!
 
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DornTRoriginal

DornTRoriginal

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Your description of how the handbrake works is not correct. You pull the handbrake back then push the thumb button down and while holding the button down allow the handbrake to move forward. It is then locked into position. To release the handbrake ONLY pull it back without touching the button . It is then released. The photos of the pawl and ratchet don't look like they are a problem.
Um why does the mech not lock when I pull it back even if I push the button? I re installed everything and tried the sequence again, maybe the problem is that the brakes are not adjusted correctly and there is not enough tension on the handbrake? I'm removing the drums for inspection, the car was left out in the weather for 2 years so there's some rust issues on the drums and rotors because I had them resurfaced just prior to giving the frame to the body shop... I'll see if putting on the drum and adjusting the rear brakes makes a difference.
 
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charleyf

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Do the brakes work okay from the brake pedal? If not that would be the reason to adjust the brakes. If they work okay and only the hand brake is loose, then there are three adjustment points on the cables. Two of those are on the cables near the pivot located just behind the axle housing. The third one is located along the cable just behind the hand brake.
These three points are where you should try to tighten the hand brake.
 

sp53

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I would button it up the way you have it and move on to something else. Like said, these hand brakes are simple and confusing if you have not dealt with one. You have a good understanding of how it works and you can fine tune it later. The first time I took one apart I got that feeling of oh xxxxx. You have it all clean up and ready to go; you are in good shape.


There was a story years ago about someone’s dad borrowing his tr3 and he pulled the hand brake and then could not get it off and walked back like 2 miles to get help and then the obvious, his son came and pulled it back and let go.
 
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DornTRoriginal

DornTRoriginal

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Well that was a long and tedious adventure.... I ordered a new ratchet, pawl, spring and washer. I installed the Pawl and ratchet, got the drums back on now the Handbrake works! I think I have always held the button down when I pulled it back, it makes the cool rrrrrdahhhh sound, and it locked! I probably wore out the tooth of the pawl so it did not "engage" correctly. Any way got it to operate and from now on I will operate the HB as Charley suggests! Thanks for all the help! On with the front brakes, clutch and master cylinders! Anyone needing a spring and washer? Let me know I will send it to you no charge!
 
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