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Thread: Fender Bead Installation

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    Jedi Hopeful DornTRoriginal's Avatar
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    Fender Bead Installation

    Here's a picture of how the (S_ _ _ Hole) body shop put together the fender bead. I think this is really wrong but I wanted to hear what others think. I believe the holes in the fender are for putting the tabs into and bending them over to secure the bead. The heads of the metal screws, which were not even a consistent type, not only make the gap between the fender and body incorrect they are sharp on the wheel well side. Thoughts?

    Fender Bead Install.jpg
    Life is an adventure. It's not the destination we reach that's most rewarding, it's the journey we travel... every day is a gift!

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    Yoda Geo Hahn's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    On mine the holes are slotted, but in any case they are for the bolts that secure the apron (go into captive nuts inside the apron).

    The tabs get trapped between the wing and the flange of the apron and are then bent over the flange.

    No screws needed, though some rivet the tabs in place to simplify later removal and re-fitting.

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    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    The lower bead should be installed without the screws. But you are not correct about the holes being used to fit the tabs. Those holes are for the bolts that are inserted to hold the nose piece on the car. The tabs are inserted between the fender and nose piece and clamped in place when the bolts are tightened. If you look at the nose piece you will find the captive nuts for those bolts.
    When you are installing that bead you may find it helpful on that lower part to use masking tape to temporarily hold the bead in position while tightening the bolts. Otherwise that bead jumps around and can scratch your paint. I believe that I have seen some threads in the past of owners who have pop riveted those tabs in place to avoid the hassle of the bead jumping around during installation.
    Charley
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    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    The only thing I see that’s off is that the tabs should be spaced evenly apart...not grouped in “2’s”. Bending the tabs over on the wheel side is a good idea to keep from cutting yourself later...but sharp is normal. +1 on the holes. Those are to hold your apron on and must be clear!
    John

    1955 TR2

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    Yoda martx-5's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    Quote Originally Posted by Geo Hahn View Post

    No screws needed, though some rivet the tabs in place to simplify later removal and re-fitting.
    I'm one of those that used pop rivets to hold on the beading to the wings. It definitely makes removal and replacement of the apron much easier. I've had to do it twice since the restoration, and would hate to have to wrestle with those beads that weren't securely fastened to the wings.

    The screws are not a bad idea from an assembly perspective, but as you pointed out, they have their shortcomings. Perhaps just have the body shop replace the screws with pop rivets. I used 1/8". Also, they should even out the spacing of the tabs.

    Edit: Also, when installing the apron with the beading riveted in place, the screws holding the outer wings to the inner wings have to be loose in order to spread them out enough to clear the apron as you put it in place.

    IMG_0640B.jpg
    Art
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    Like Charley said, the tabs can scratch. I put tape over mine until in place and ready for bending. They should be evenly spaced along the curve and simply bent so as to pull the bead tight to the seam and hold it in place. I use pliers to tug it tight. I did rivet the continuous piece along the fender top. Factory used #4 slot head sheet metal screws as I recall. The continuous piece may need to be cut diagonally in a place or two to get it lined up with the fender top.
    Bob

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    Yoda Geo Hahn's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    The one downside I can see to riveting the tabs in place is that it will no longer be possible to loosen the wing bolts and remove the beading with the apron still on the car.

    I have done this three times for a respray (1983, 2000 & 2016) - being able to sneak the beading out with panels still in place made the paint prep and reassembly easier.

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    Jedi Trainee Kleykamp's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    Tabs should be evenly spaced. Tabs are actually folded about 1/2" from the end to double the thickness. They are placed near the bolts, so that when the bolts are tight they squeeze the tab between the fender and front apron. The only place there are fasteners is along the sheet metal piece along the top of the fender, which is with <I believe 4> small sheetmetal screws. Screws are easier to remove than rivets. Install the top first then masking tape the curved bead to the fender loosely. Start at the top and work down tightening the bolts with the bead pressed firmly against the fender and apron gap. I'm still using the 57 year old stainless bead that came with the car and it looks fine. If you ever need to remove the apron or fender, just use masking tape to hold it in place while you work. No need to re-engineer it.

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    Darth Vader
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    I must say that paint job looks nice even perfect so stay positive. Car restorations are an art form that pulls on our psychology with rewards and failures that can be difficult to process and not for the impatient. I must admit John reminded me of that; anyways what I am saying is stay positive walk away and come back; one day can make a big difference in our thinking. You have a beautiful example of paint and body work in front of you, and like all the guys are saying put that blue painters tape in areas and on pieces that are going to or maybe get scratched. Plus if the tape feels too sticky put the tape on your jeans a couple of times to dull the tape.


    One thing I noticed in your picture is that the last bolt area on the fender is on top of the drip edge of the tub. It is really not a big deal and you could leave it. I have seen that many times, and I am still not sure if the factory ever cared or not. In the past I have notched the fender tip so that the fender lays flat on the tub and other times notched the tub, and sometimes the 2 need to move some, and I have left it, but if your apron does not fit at the tip you might mess with it. I did not want to cause more stress, but sounds like you a perfectionist like many of us here, yet I will add to that- that perfectionism is defeated by mother nature every time. We just keep moving and learning.

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    Jedi Hopeful DornTRoriginal's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    Thanks everyone, yes i have a bit of ODC so i strive for as good as possible drives a lot of people crazy. I agree the tabs should not be secured and i recall the originals being folded and secured by the fender bolts. I have the originals some where but they were damaged in a fender bender when i was 22 or so... onward!

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    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Fender Bead Installation

    Welcome back to the thread...I thought we lost ya!
    John

    1955 TR2

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