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Questions about stator tube and trafficator fixation

matt78

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Hello.

Overhauling the steering system of my BN1 (non adjustable steering wheel), is driving me crazy, especially the trafficator.

Previous owner's mechanics did an awful job when replacing the original wheel by a MotoLita-like one, resulting in a huge mess : trafficator moving sideways in the hub and turning with the wheel, thus twisting wires and making the cancellation system inoperative, and, over the top, allowing steering box oil to seep through the olive nut because the stator tube doesn't reach the end cover... to not speak about other issues.

Here are my questions :

- having cut out the wires at the end of the steering box, I'm struggling to remove the wiring loom (I intend to replace it by a new one) from the stator tube, but it sticks inside. I tried to ease it with a heating gun, but the wires finally broke at the opposite opening :cool-new:
So, at the moment, the wiring loom is stuck in the stator tube with no more grip to prise it : any good idea to remove it ?

- don't you think that some part is missing (see attached picture) ?
20180116_190626 (800x450).jpg

- I guess that there should be at least some (3 ?) tiny screws to attach the trafficator to the stator tube's flange : could you please tell me what their dimensions are (size, type of thread) ?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Matt
 

pan

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G'day matt78,
It sounds like your stator tube is a little too short. It should project a little way beyond the end cover so that the compression fitting (olive) has somewhere to clamp onto. Mine is a bit short as well and I think this may be because of old damage in a front-end collision. The link that Steve provided is very useful but I'm not sure if it shows the little gadget that stops the stator tube from flopping about at the top of the steering column on non-adjustable cars. I hope you can make it out in my picture. IMG_8753.jpg
These things do tend to wear and as far as I know are unavailable form the usual suppliers. The compression fitting, when tight should prevent the tube from rotating with the steering wheel, but maybe it is bent and fouling on the column as it turns.
Cheers,
Alwyn
 
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matt78

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Thank you very much for your replies.


@ steveg : I read your interesting document describing an adjustable wheel's trafficator. It appears that my stator tube's flange is far more simple (it's a single disc, see attached picture), so I understand that it's directly screwed to the back of the trafficator. I can't use the current assembly found on my car as a reference – as I wrote, taking into account what the previous « mechanics » did, I need to be very suspicious... but looking at Moss catalog picture, I can't find any missing part, except those £µ%$*ù@ screws (they don't appear on the suppliers' parts lists, and will be difficult to get here in France, that's why I asked for their size and thread type).

@ pan : I understand your explanation, but I think that in this case the issue occurred when the mechanics replaced the original wheel hub with the MotoLita-like one, which is thicker and thus prevents the flange going further in the hub, so doesn't allow the stator tube to go further enough through the steering box to allow a good sealing by the olive and nut compression fitting.
I'll check this more accurately on the bench when I get back the column, currently in the machinist shop for a new bushing rebore.
Should the tube be too short as you wrote, or still be blocked by the sticky wiring loom, I'll buy a new one if available - btw, any idea for removing it ? Maybe cutting the tube in the middle, but soldering back the resulting two parts will sureley prove very difficult...
 

bob hughes

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Matt

You can get a replacement tube with a flange from - SC Parts, AH Spares, A Head 4 Healeys all in the UK. There is a company in Germany and I think they have a branch in France, they are or were linked with SC Parts but I can not find their name now, so I am not sure if they still exist. Found them - Limora - you can look them up on Google, they have a number in Paris

To remove the wiring on the existing tube - you could try gently tapping a solid steel bar down the stator tube in the hope that something will start to come out of the bottom of it that you can get hold of to pull the wires out. Perhaps the old tube has been squashed some where along it's length - have you seen it yet or is it still inside the column.

:cheers:

Bob
 
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matt78

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Thank you Bob.

You are right, some suppliers seem to propose this part. I tried Moss Europe - Paris staff - this afternoon : they answered that it was possible to place an order, but don't have any estimated date of delivery (need to source it in US :livid:smile:. I'll contact their competitors tomorrow.

Regarding your propoal, I'll give it a try - w/o too much hope, because of the huge effort required... Fortunately, the tube is on the bench - it's undamaged, the wiring loom is really stuck inside.

Matt
 

Bob_Spidell

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G'day matt78,
It sounds like your stator tube is a little too short. It should project a little way beyond the end cover so that the compression fitting (olive) has somewhere to clamp onto. Mine is a bit short as well and I think this may be because of old damage in a front-end collision. The link that Steve provided is very useful but I'm not sure if it shows the little gadget that stops the stator tube from flopping about at the top of the steering column on non-adjustable cars. I hope you can make it out in my picture. View attachment 52024
These things do tend to wear and as far as I know are unavailable form the usual suppliers. The compression fitting, when tight should prevent the tube from rotating with the steering wheel, but maybe it is bent and fouling on the column as it turns.
Cheers,
Alwyn

My BN2's stator tube has one of these (IIRC I've seen it referred to as an 'anti-rattle clip' or similar). The last time I was in there--gawd I hate working on these things--I moved it to the top of the tube as you suggest; however, the trafficator head didn't move around but the steering column developed a clunk over bumps. I surmised the tube wobbles around in the steering shaft and a jolt can cause it to smack the side of the shaft. Moss catalog shows part# 021-241, a 'rubber sleeve,' that appears to be just a rubber grommet, but they want $119.99 for it! Good grief, what is this thing made of, moon rock?

Anyway, there are two possible problems: the tube bouncing around in the shaft and the trafficator head moving and being dragged by the steering hub. I solved both by putting the metal 'gadget' about midway on the tube--to stop the clunk--and a bit of vinyl tubing near the top, to secure the head. I don't think you can reverse them as the tubing is a tight fit and installing the stator tube would cause it to be slid near the top anyway.
 

Bob_Spidell

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... the tube is on the bench - it's undamaged, the wiring loom is really stuck inside.

Matt

The harness is a fairly tight fit in the tube, but I'm guessing over the years yours has adhered to the side of the stator tube. You might try some of the 'cures' for removing a stuck bolt: penetrating oil, patience and cussing. I'd stay away from heat as you might 'hot glue' the wiring to the tube.
 
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matt78

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Good remark about heat gluing the wiring loom ! Didn't think of using penetrating oil... but, yes, patience will be the key in such a case, especially for having oil traveling on more than 1 meter long :smile:
I've no problem with the sator tube bouncing in the shaft (there's a soft piece of felt around it near the top of the column, so it's quiet) : it's the trafficator himself which bounces in the hub, because it's only "maintained" by the wires :blue: - didn't catch that before dismantling the unit !

Matt
 

pan

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Matt78,
I too have a Moto Lita steering wheel. It was supplied by The Healey Factory in Melbourne and instead of the Moto Lita hub they supplied a hub which they have made especially for Healeys. It is shorter so allows that little bit of extra elbow room and on my car it does not cause the control head to bind.
Referring to your picture, does your horn work? The earth ring is retained by the screws that attach the head to the stator tube flange. Another part in the head is the anti rattle washer. Before reassembling (when you get the screws) give that wave-washer a bit of a bend for extra "wave", it will help get rid of some of the rattle. Also, check the cast alloy cancelling ring. The high spot that engages on the cancelling switches tends to wear away which is why the self-cancel function ceases to operate on these cars.
 

bob hughes

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Matt

Getting back to your original statement 'oil to seep through the olive nut because the stator tube doesn't reach the end cover'

I have just made a phone call to AH Spares and the overall length of your stator tube should be 65 inches or 1651mm so you can compare it with what you have there. On my BJ7 adjustable column, the stator tube projects quite away beyond the compression nut so if your tube is short it will need to be replaced. You will then need to look at what can be done at the control end where everything was moving around. I am not sure of the fixings with a fixed stator tube or indeed when changing steering wheels but with standard adjustables there are three grub screws around the boss that locate the control head, you are going to have to investigate that if things at the head are bot fitting properly.

:cheers:

Bob
 
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matt78

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@ pan : yes, the horn and the indicators work - except that, as was previously explained, there's no automatic cancelling, because the whole trafficator rotates with the hub...
I'll follow your advice when rebuilding the system. Everything is sticky inside (old grease ?), I'm going to clean and lubricate if necessary every part thouroughly.

@ DerekJ : I fully agree with your comments. AH Spares is my main supplier.

@ Bob : thank you for having checked the length. And ? And ? Bingo ! My stator tube is 1618 mm long, so 33 mm shorter :cool-new:
So, no more question : I ordered a new tube today... I'm also begining to understand how things should fit in the hub.

Thanks again for all your messages.

Matt
 

pan

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Trafficator1.jpgG'day again matt78. I have attached a diagram that I used when I repaired the trafficator switch on my BN1. I found the diagram in a copy of the AH Club Pacific Centre's magazine 'Healey Highlights' from the mid-'70s. The original was for a later car with the adjustable column. I modified the sketch to show the earlier model switch. I hope it helps.
I am unable to locate the 'Healey Highlights' that it came from so I can't credit the artist, unfortunately.
 
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matt78

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Thank you for this additionnal information.
Job done : trafficator dismantled, parts cleaned and lubricated where necessary. Put all parts together and it's fine now.

I'm now trying to mill the hub in order for the whole trafficator to fit inside, and I wonder what prevents the steering wheel going further on the shaft when applying torque on the central nut ?
There is a slot in the shaft (OD ca 20 mm, see attached picture), but couldn't find any part (sort of a circlip for example ?) in the parts list to fit inside... and, of course, there's nothing on my car.
(Moss catalog provides a part number for an adjustable column only)

20180121_152314 (450x800).jpg

Any opinion / advice ?
 

cpbol

Freshman Member
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Matt

Getting back to your original statement 'oil to seep through the olive nut because the stator tube doesn't reach the end cover'

I have just made a phone call to AH Spares and the overall length of your stator tube should be 65 inches or 1651mm so you can compare it with what you have there. On my BJ7 adjustable column, the stator tube projects quite away beyond the compression nut so if your tube is short it will need to be replaced. You will then need to look at what can be done at the control end where everything was moving around. I am not sure of the fixings with a fixed stator tube or indeed when changing steering wheels but with standard adjustables there are three grub screws around the boss that locate the control head, you are going to have to investigate that if things at the head are bot fitting properly.

:cheers:

Bob

I have a question on how far the stator tube extends beyond the compression nut on an adjustable steering column. I just replaced my steering wheel and rebuilt the trafficator. I think I pulled the stator tube toward the steering wheel (but not all the way to the nut) when I pulled the upper stator tube out. Once I figured out there was a compression nut to loosen that makes everything actually move, I got everything back together and working well. The only thing is the stator tube probably sticks out about 2" / 50mm from the nut. Is that normal? It seems right, but I didn't get a look at the compression nut end of the tube before I took it apart.
 

Bob_Spidell

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Two inches sounds about an inch too long:

1) loosen olive nut
2) move your adjustable steering wheel to the full forward position and lock it down
3) push the stator tube rearward, while holding the harness, until you hit a hard stop
4) tighten olive nut and pull harness forward
 
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