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Thread: Block Water Outlet Valve

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    Luke Skywalker KVH's Avatar
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    Block Water Outlet Valve

    I have two TRs. Both water outlet valves in the block were leaking from the "faucet," not from the block where the fitting goes in. I ordered one new once from the usual outlet, and it's now leaking, too. My other one was already fairly new. I cleaned it and reinstalled it--but it's leaking still. So I have both cars leaking fluid.

    What's the deal? The antifreeze I'm using? Defective manufacture?

    Should I just run some "stop leak" and forget about it.

    After sending defective parts back over the past few months I'm beginning to imagine the difficulty the distributors must be having with reliable suppliers. You would have been surprised to see my steering tube bushings a while back. The internal nylon inserts were so loose they just fell out.

    Anyway, advice on stop leak for the valves please? Too cheap a fix?

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    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    Yes...the new valves are defective. They are machined, but not ground. This leaves circular machining marks on the metal parts that prevents them from sealing.

    A work around until better valves are available is to take the valve apart and lap the cone into the housing. Then reassemble using a thick grease or plumber's sealant. I trie lapping unitl the machine marks were removed, but then the cone becomes too small for the housing...so only lap until the cone and housing mate completely around, but not until the machine marks are gone.
    John

    1955 TR2

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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    Quote Originally Posted by KVH View Post
    I have two TRs. Both water outlet valves in the block were leaking from the "faucet," not from the block where the fitting goes in. I ordered one new once from the usual outlet, and it's now leaking, too. My other one was already fairly new. I cleaned it and reinstalled it--but it's leaking still. So I have both cars leaking fluid.

    What's the deal? The antifreeze I'm using? Defective manufacture?

    Should I just run some "stop leak" and forget about it.

    After sending defective parts back over the past few months I'm beginning to imagine the difficulty the distributors must be having with reliable suppliers. You would have been surprised to see my steering tube bushings a while back. The internal nylon inserts were so loose they just fell out.

    Anyway, advice on stop leak for the valves please? Too cheap a fix?
    I hate stop leak. Especially after I had to replace my engine in my V8 4Runner because someone used it and caused a plug somewhere in the coolant lines causing my small radiator tube to pop off at highway speed which then drained all the coolant, overheated the engine and blew it out in the middle of Nevada on the Extraterrestrial Highway.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gary
    1962 (Nov Build) Triumph TR4 CT/16836L Restoration in process

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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    If you want to keep the valve for looks:

    Remove it from the block and drill/tap the inlet (threaded) end of the valve assembly for a brass machine screw, Allen-head screw, or 1/8" pipe plug. Thread the screw or pipe plug in (with sealant), and replace the valve assembly into the block (with a copper washer, and perhaps a little sealant on the washer as well). The valve will look completely stock, but you'll have to remember to unscrew the whole valve assembly when you want to drain out the block. But how often do any of us actually do that - maybe once per year?

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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    It looks as though I shall take off my "new" valve and replace the old one which I still have lying about. I won't be any messier to operate than a leaky new one. But hard to get at with the car on the ground.

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    Obi Wan Sarastro's Avatar
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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    After messing with the one on my MG TD, I finally just cut it off and plugged it with a screw. You can easily drain the block other ways, and it's just not worth the trouble. I could also remove the screw for drainage, if I wanted.
    Steve Maas
    1966 Triumph TR4A, undergoing restoration: http://www.nonlintec.com/tr4a
    1952 MG TD, restoration completed 2014, sold 2016: http://www.nonlintec.com/mgtd
    1960 Austin-Healey "Bugeye" Sprite, sold 2010: http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite
    1967 Porsche 912: http://www.nonlintec.com/porsche

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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    Huh, I installed a new one this past summer using thread sealant. No issues.

    Bob
    1966 TR4A IRS

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    Luke Skywalker KVH's Avatar
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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    It's not leaking there. It's leaking right out of the spout. I called the distributor. They've had two defect recalls over the past 7 years, one in 2016 when I ordered mine.

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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    I see, what a PITA. That's exactly why I prefer to rebuild the original part where I can. The OEM quality is almost always is better than this "new" aftermarket stuff. I would have reused mine but the valve was frozen and the little handle sheared right off when I applied too much torque trying to open it. No choice but to replace it.
    Bob
    1966 TR4A IRS

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    Darth Vader
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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    What I did (learned from Don E) take your valve out-- fillthe end with sealant-- let that dry, and put it back in for originality. When youwant to drain the system remove the whole unit.





    I seriously try and avoid stop leak also. If you need it, then something is wrong and you have to think through the problem seriously. I fix a low pressure block leak once, and I was glad to use it, but on a radiator deal or heater deal, I 99% fix the problem.

    I have friend that toasted a nice BMW with it, and he could not even find a shop that wanted to fix it, and he has the money. One shop finally did put a junkyard motor in for 6K.

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    Re: Block Water Outlet Valve

    Yes my both my old and new block water outlet taps leak.
    I think that I'll block the end with hotwater compatible sealant and put it back for originality sake.

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