The tools for driving and bucking solid rivets are available from any aircraft tool supply place. Unless you plan on doing more riveting it might be worth while for you to take the cover, plates and rivets to a local aircraft shop and ask if they can just do it for you. For small solid rivets there is really no magic. You can do it with a properly sized hammer and a properly sized piece of steel to use as a bucking bar. If you can find something steel that cups the head of the rivet (a rivet set) you just have to put everything in place and put your bucking surface in a vise and tap the rivet with enough force to flaten out the opposite end on your bucking surface. You just have to be careful that the rivet is fully inserted with the "shop head"(the top of the rivet which does not get deformed) against the plate and valve cover while you are hitting it. For small rivets you can often get away with a flat item with which to hit the rivet head (such as a hammer face). One other caution is to avoid hitting the plate or valve cover with the hammer or whatever you use as a rivet set. You will forever see the marks that makes . You do not need to hammer the bucked end too thin, just enough to firmly attach the plates. If the rivet comes too long it must be trimmed in order to avoid bending , rather than flattening it. One last caution, since I don't know if the rivet goes through more than one layer of sheet material, such as an interior baffle, you need to take care that everything it does go through is firmly sandwiched together when you strike the rivets. Hope this helps. Also, it is reasonable to hold the bucking bar in your hand rather than a vise, but that gets to a place where you sometimes need another couple of hands to keep things from shifting while you are beating upon it.