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210 Tranny Case Mods started this evening

Jim_Gruber

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This was supposed to get started 3 weeks ago but finally found a few minutes tonight to complete Step 1) for Case Preparation. Relieving Bell Hosing flange to clear oil pump cover.

Not too bad actually. I used a 2 1/2 or 3"cutting blade on a Hi-Tech Harbor Freight Cutoff Tool. 1) Marked what needed cut and used the edge of the Cutoff Tool to create a 1 /4" Relief in the side of the case. Gerard's Adapter Plate on Tranny housing 2) Marked Area to be cut 3) Post Cutting 4) My expensive HF Case Modification tool .

Went slow and it took about 1/2 Hour to complete. Probably would have been easier and quicker with a Grinding Wheel but no such luck in the Grinding/Cutting Tool Drawer in my Garage. Will do a little more smoothing with Dremel and Rotary Sanding wheel but essentially done. Now to see how my new Camera does with close ups. Not too bad on the closeups. new Canon T6, my Christmas present. Next Step removing the Spine along the top edge of the case to clear heater shelf already done, most challenging part is drilling 3 1 3/4" Holes in the top of the case, along with Angle Grinder and SawZall to modify the case so it fits under the heater Shelf. Pics to follow.

View attachment 51483 View attachment 51484View attachment 51485View attachment 51486
 

Boink

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Should work very nicely. Good job.
 
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Jim_Gruber

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A bit more Dremel Work and Oil Pump Cover sits totally flush with top of Adapter Plate, no rocking, no movement, perfect.
 

nomad

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Other than removing the rib on the trans I never had to make any further case mods to clear the heater shelf. The longer Datsun engine did require BFH to heater plenum.
 

BlueMax

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[h=3]Jim, all I did was the oil pump relief and remove the casting spine, didn't do any other modes to the gear box in order to fit. I just don't know why you should have to make any other changes? Now I want say that the install was easy but I felt that the aggravation for esthetic made up for that... I used the Rivergate, not sure who's kit your using?[/h]
 
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Jim_Gruber

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I'm using Gerard's Kit. Notch is cut where Center Spine is, finished, and then Aluminum Flashing and JB Weld close the case back up.
 

BlueMax

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What a shame to have to butcher a gearbox to that extent then JB weld some aluminum plate in order to make it fit? That tells me that either it’s something wrong with the car or the rear transmission mount is sitting to high or manufactured incorrectly?
 

Boink

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I had the full indentation done (removing a fair bit) and even then it JUST fit in. Still, there are no structural issues with this approach. I can't see how it could be changed given the dimensions involved with the Datsun tranny.
 

Gerard

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The issue has absolutely nothing to do with which kit is used, and the assumption is has anything to do with ill fitting parts or which kit is used is completely erroneous. The fact is, once in place, there is plenty of room for the gearbox, even if completely unmodified, including the rib. The issue has everything to do with getting the gearbox and engine installed simultaneously into the engine bay. The simple fact is that the distance between the bottom forward edge of the heater plenum and the bottom front edge of the oil pan, is one inch less than the distance from the top of the bell housing to the steering rack/crossmember. If the heater plenum isn't relieved by at least an inch, there isn't enough enough room to clear the bell housing once the oil pan makes contact with the steering rack crossmember. Some people modify the crossmember to something similarly done on the rubber bumper cars, where the cross bar is cut and a vee formed and welded to the top of the crossmember, This leaves plenty of room for the oil pan and crank pulley to clear. A large majority of owners are averse to doing any sheet metal modifications and prefer to modify a replaceable item rather than resort to a BFH. It's a personal choice. Alternatives are installing the gearbox separately first or installing the oil pan and crank pulley after the engine and gearbox are in the car, neither of which are great choices. The installation can can also be accomplished by just forcing everything in, but that will deform the heater plenum in the process. Notching the bell housing is not required, but one of the choices above is.
 

Boink

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... and I should have clarified that it was only about fitting the combo engine-transmission in that is the difficulty. I think there were only a few millimeters on the top side (to the heater plenum). I didn't want to beat the plenum up (or cut it). Once in, it all fits very nicely.
 
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Jim_Gruber

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Gerard, Thanks for the explanation. A little more time to do some garage work this evening.
 

twas_brillig

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We have two Rivergate Datsun kits installed, one behind a 948 cc engine (tight, but not impossible); t'other behind a 1275 and there is absolutely no way to fit the complete engine/transmission assembly in. The last couple of pull/installs, we've had to take the crankshaft pulley off and then try to reinstall where you can't (well, I couldn't) do a proper job of torquing it. The next time it has to come out, we'll be doing the 'cut the hole in the Datsun trans bellhousing' routine. An older, retired gentleman has been puttering away at building a 1275/5 speed for me using an original Paul Asgeirsson kit, and I'll be carving a hole in it once I finally receive it, as the chances of damaging other bits and pieces are just too great otherwise. Doug
 

nomad

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Well, I've had two different installations in and out a couple of time's and things are tight but don't remember it being that bad. I may have fitted the trans mount after things were in place. That might make a difference. Last tear down was Datsun engine only with cross member modified but in a Midget. In a BE I would think its a piece of cake.

Kurt
 

Boink

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Mine is a 1275 and it was extremely tight to get in.
 
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Jim_Gruber

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Ready to finish tranny mods in the AM. This setup I think will work.It's about 30 degrees in the Garage, Have not had dinner, and I'm exhausted after a long day. Not the conditions to do surgery on this 210 Tranny. And yes this is the spare 4 Speed bellhousing I picked up from Rivergate. Same Bellhousing as the 5 Speed. I would not want to do this surgery on the full transmission. View attachment 51509View attachment 51510Will get up and fire up the Heater in the garage and after about an hour it gets toasty warm. Temps up to 50 degrees and sunny tomorrow. Bugsy will get a little more exercise before the Cold and Snow come next week. For now I'll enjoy the remaining Drive Time.
 
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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Ready to finish tranny mods in the AM. This setup I think will work.It's about 30 degrees in the Garage, Have not had dinner, and I'm exhausted after a long day. Not the conditions to do surgery on this 210 Tranny. And yes this is the spare 4 Speed bellhousing I picked up from Rivergate. Same Bellhousing as the 5 Speed. I would not want to do this surgery on the full transmission. Center Rib and the big Flange need to be removed, Hole Saw and connect the 3 holes with an Angle Grinder and my trusty SawZallView attachment 51509View attachment 51510Will get up and fire up the Heater in the garage and after about an hour it gets toasty warm. Temps up to 50 degrees and sunny tomorrow. Bugsy will get a little more exercise before the Cold and Snow come next week. For now I'll enjoy the remaining Drive Time.
 
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