Soldering Bullit Connectors

I need to replace some of the original built connectors on my BE.
Can any one give me any tips on the proper method of soldering the wire and the connector.
Tin the wire first??
Just put wire in the connector and solder through the tip? Or the wire end??

Thanks in Advance

I am sure someone will say to put the wire through, add flux, then flow the solder down the wire and into the bullet. That's probably the official "right" way. That is not what I do, especially with old wires needing new bullets.

I strip off the insulation about 1/4" and clean the old copper as best I can to remove as much oxidation as possible. I twist the cleaned strands, dip in flux, then tin the wire quickly so as not to melt the insulation. I insert the tinned wire into a clean bullet, pushing the wire forward until the insulation bottoms out. I apply flux to the bullet tip, then place my iron or gun right at the joint where the wire exits the bullet and apply solder. I do that as quickly as possible and I count on the flux to carry some of the heat into the joint. Once cool I trim the excess wire exiting the bullet.

That usually works for me without causing heat damage to the insulation.

Wonder what is recommended for a soldering torch or iron for this type of work? I have the worst luck when I attempt to solder, it must be that I don't have the correct tool!

gfholl said:

Wonder what is recommended for a soldering torch or iron for this type of work? I have the worst luck when I attempt to solder, it must be that I don't have the correct tool!

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I can only offer comments based on my personal experience, not what may be technically correct.

For any soldering job you have to start with material that is as clean as possible, no oxides, oils, grease, or other coatings. Use a good resin flux made for electrical work, not plumbing. Use the largest iron or gun that can fit the work space. You want to have a large amount of heat built up in the iron/gun before you contact the pieces to solder. As I mentioned earlier, I count on the flux to help transfer the heat into the work. If you use a small iron on heavy parts or bring a cold iron into contact with the parts, the iron will take a long time to heat the pieces and that is almost certain to allow too much solder to wick into the wires (making them stiff) and this will also melt the wire insulation.

You can use a torch if you are very careful and if the flame is very compact. As with an iron, you want to get the heat in as quickly as possible, then get out. In general soldering electrical bits with a torch isn't common. Most fluxes are not supposed to be heated with exposure to a direct flame.

The bullets I bought from British Wiring had a tiny hole in the end. I prepared them pretty much the way Doug describes. Then--I put a little heat on the end with a butane torch, and put the solder right over that little hole--when the solder melts it wicks inside through that hole to the copper wire--job done. It is easy to scorch the insulation though.

Thanks for the tips. My Connectors also have the small hole on the tip.
All the Electronic bullet connectors I have seen in UTube videos have the hole on the side.
Most of their techniques fill the bullet with solder from the tail end
I guess I will have to invest in a good soldering iron. My 30 something year old Weller gun does not seem to have the power it needs to do the proper job.
Thanks again

Joe Schlosser said:

My 30 something year old Weller gun does not seem to have the power it needs to do the proper job.
Thanks again

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Over the past decade I have noticed a problem with Weller soldering guns. Before you give up on yours, try the following.

I have seen two different tip securing methods used on Weller guns. One passes the legs of the tips through hollow "hex head set screws" which are tightened to secure the tips. The other method has simple holes into which the tip's legs are inserted and regular set screws come through the side to secure the tips. In both cases, I've noticed oxidation builds up on the tips and the inside of the corresponding holes in the gun. Clean both. Make sure the tips show bare copper where they go into the gun and make sure the corresponding holes in the gun are also clean. Once clean, tighten the nuts/screws securely and try again. I found that if I didn't do the cleaning step regularly my Weller gun seemed to put out very little heat. Frankly... I gave up on the Weller and bought a used Craftsman gun like I had used in my youth. Even it requires attention (and its plastic housing is falling apart) but it works more consistently than my old Weller.

EDIT: BTW, I have never seen Lucas type bullet connectors that did not have a hole in the tip.

I have a very small butane torch that's ideal for bullets. I also solder through the hole in the end.

Postscript...why do Americans say "sodder" not "solder"? Just curious.

Roger said:

Postscript...why do Americans say "sodder" not "solder"? Just curious.

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More than you ever wanted to know on the subject: https://english.stackexchange.com/q...-the-correct-pronunciation-of-the-word-solder But being from Boston, it's pronounced "sawda"