• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Should I remove driver's side fender to work on footbox on my BN1?

55modified

Senior Member
Offline
So I want to install a Tilton pedal assembly on my modified Healey. Seems like it would be smart to just pull the fender so I can have access to the foot box.

Here is the question. Am I going to regret removing it after i go to replace it? It lines up great now with the door and i hate to "disturb" the fit. Should I be concerned about this? Will be tough job for sure if I don't remove it.
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
So I want to install a Tilton pedal assembly on my modified Healey. Seems like it would be smart to just pull the fender so I can have access to the foot box.

Here is the question. Am I going to regret removing it after i go to replace it? It lines up great now with the door and i hate to "disturb" the fit. Should I be concerned about this? Will be tough job for sure if I don't remove it.

Yep all your fears are well founded.:excitement:
 
OP
55modified

55modified

Senior Member
Offline
No way I am taking that door off! Thanks for the replies.
 

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
When installing a bilge blower into my cold air duct, I wanted to make sure the blower was well hidden between the foot well and fender with all electrical connections in place and secured. This would not be possible without removing the fender and could have resulted in damage to the fender and cowl if trying to lean over these components during the installation.

As a result of my installation objectives, I found removing the door and front fender to be a reasonably straight forward approach and one not as risky as would be expected. This could be because all components were properly fit prior and acquired a memory to fall back in place on reinstallation. After outlining the door hinge positions with tape, I removed the hinge bolts from the door jam and removed the door. From there, the fender bolts under the dash, along the cowl, and along the bottom were removed and the fender lifted off.

I can't say that there is no risk of paint chipping or even running in to difficulties with refit and finish so you will have to evaluate the negative potential against the difficulty of installing the Tilton peddle with all in place. If you can gain access to do the installation without removing fender/door then that seem the logical way to go.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

vette

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
I don't believe removing the front fender is that big of a deal. There really isn't that much to it. But I would absolutely tape up all perimeter edges on the door, & shroud and maybe even the fender itself. Maybe using two layers of tape. Also taping back from the edge another tapes width. The bear of the front fenders is reach ing some of the bolts. But it is easier using long extensions on rachets, etc. Probably will have to remove the air cleaners. Of course also the lights. But with care I believe you can do it with no damage. Also alignment should not really be a problem unless your fenders were forced into place to begin with. Which is not the way to do it. One more point, if you do decide to remove the door, you can drill the hinge plates with 1/8th inch drill bits. Drill straight thru to and thru the body & door sheet metal. (easiest to do the plate on the 'A' pillar). Drill two holes in each plate. When it comes time to rehang the door, you line up the 1/8th inch holes and slide the 1/8th inch drill bits into the holes and keep them their till the bolts are all tightened. The the hinge plate is in the exact same place it was before you removed it.
 
OP
55modified

55modified

Senior Member
Offline
I don't believe removing the front fender is that big of a deal. There really isn't that much to it. But I would absolutely tape up all perimeter edges on the door, & shroud and maybe even the fender itself. Maybe using two layers of tape. Also taping back from the edge another tapes width. The bear of the front fenders is reach ing some of the bolts. But it is easier using long extensions on rachets, etc. Probably will have to remove the air cleaners. Of course also the lights. But with care I believe you can do it with no damage. Also alignment should not really be a problem unless your fenders were forced into place to begin with. Which is not the way to do it. One more point, if you do decide to remove the door, you can drill the hinge plates with 1/8th inch drill bits. Drill straight thru to and thru the body & door sheet metal. (easiest to do the plate on the 'A' pillar). Drill two holes in each plate. When it comes time to rehang the door, you line up the 1/8th inch holes and slide the 1/8th inch drill bits into the holes and keep them their till the bolts are all tightened. The the hinge plate is in the exact same place it was before you removed it.

Thank you sir. Is it possible to get fender off without removing the door first?

Paint issues are not a problem as it is due for a respray.
 

vette

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the door to get the fender off. It has been a few years since I put mine back together and I have done a few other cars since but I'm pretty sure the Healey door does not have to come off. When I restored my Healey the body and etc was stripped to every last bolt. My car had sever rust and had some accident damage. The only part of the car that I could be sure was really true was the the 'A' pillars, (the front hinge post). So I hung the doors and then built the body around them. They were hung on the unmolested hinge post without shims and then I fitted everything else to line up with the doors. So the doors went on first. the front fenders were some of the last things I put on.
 

Mike Tobin

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
I found that the flange at the rear of the fender would not clear the space between the hinge post and the door. The door had to come off. Hint putting it back on. cut the heads of a couple bolts the same thread size as the hinge screws Use them as locating pins and as a third hand to hold the doors while you fit the screws.
 

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi All,

Vette mentioned the taping of all part edges and Mike mentioned the use of location pins for the hinges. These are very good suggestions and would very much help reduce the risk of the task on the body work.

I have no idea of the complexity addressing the BN1 windshield would have on the job but I do remember a friend removed a BN1 fender with the windshield in its most vertical position. Although I removed my fender and door without assistance, I would suggest having another set of hands would help greatly when handling these large parts (fender, door, windshield?).

Good luck,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

RAC68

Darth Vader
Offline
Hi John,

That makes sense but my BJ8 windshield can stay in place and, again if I remember correctly, the BN1/2 windshield can be moved sufficiently to allow fender removal. I must admit that, as I get older, so does my memory, so I caution "55Modified" to evaluate this for himself.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:

vette

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
Yes, I must admit that memory does get a little cloudy for me as well. I am sorry if I miss lead "55Modified" but I must say that now I also remember that my fenders are modified aftermarket and might be a little different around the top back corner of the fender. But it appears that there has been a good discussion of it.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
abarth69 Should I remove this section Spridgets 8
G I think I should remove "Welding" from my profile. Triumph 7
mctriumph TR2/3/3A Safety mods every Tr3 should get Triumph 12
K TR2/3/3A RE: Pulling the choke knob all the way out....the carb jets should be down how far? Triumph 5
AUSMHLY 2nd gear should I file it? Do gears have a hard coating? Austin Healey 7
S TR6 Should I Buy This "73 Triumph TR6" Triumph 3
T TR2/3/3A Should there be a body ground strap to battery on TR3 Triumph 7
BN6_2197 How regular should I change the gearbox oil? Austin Healey 5
AngliaGT Why You Should Double - Check Your Parts When You Receive them. Spridgets 2
Got_All_4 TR6 Should I paint the inside of the block? Triumph 17
S Well, this should be interesting..... Other Cars 9
KVH TR4/4A Should I Cut the Lower Windshield Gasket Triumph 2
C MGB Should I lubricate the cog gears MG 2
George Zeck What fuel gauge SHOULD I have? Spridgets 3
B How often should you change the rear rear axle oil Austin Healey 9
B TR6 Should the poly diff mounts be snug to the studs? Triumph 2
Sopwith_Camel 95 xj r cheap should i run away screaming? Jaguar 2
L Should I do it?? [electrical conversion] Austin Healey 24
B TR2/3/3A what adjustment should i select with Koni shocks onTR3? Triumph 4
T TR4/4A Should I use ARP Assembly Lubricant for Engine Assembly and Fastener Installation? Triumph 2
F Exhaust gas analyser - what carbon monoxide level should I expect from my BT7? Austin Healey 7
K TR2/3/3A How long should an SU damper top up last? Triumph 22
M TR2/3/3A What oils, lubes etc should I have at my house at all times? Triumph 39
Got_All_4 TR2/3/3A What color should these parts be? Triumph 4
Joe Reed MGB Wiring problem....this should be fun :[ MG 4
stretchit2 Portable Hardtop Rack - Should it stay or should it go Austin Healey 28
M TR6 Should I buy a TR6? Triumph 24
Keoke Everone should own one Austin Healey 14
W TR2/3/3A '56 TR3 St 15000+ should have disc brakes... Right? Triumph 33
K TR2/3/3A How much oil should the steering box have in it? Triumph 6
Wirewheels General Tech Do we really care what our LBC's speedometer reads? Should we? MG 7
S TR6 Worth Saving??? What do you think we should do? Triumph 30
GTP1960 TR2/3/3A Should you paint your leaf springs? Triumph 5
2billydavies TR2/3/3A what bolts should i use to mount engine on an engine stand? Triumph 13
V General TR should or shouldn't? Triumph 19
R TR4/4A Replacing Door and Window Handles _ Should Be Simple - But Its Not Triumph 4
R TR4/4A About to put in an OD Transmission. What else should I do while in the air Triumph 7
T TR2/3/3A Should I put flat washers on sump bolts? Triumph 3
E How much should i pay for a complete 100/4 engine ? Austin Healey 4
luke44 General TR Every TR Owner should really appreciate this picture. Any guesses? Triumph 7
M TR4/4A Where should TR4A carpet snaps be placed? Triumph 10
J TR4/4A 1965 TR4 in pieces, What should we do with it? Triumph 9
Got_All_4 TR2/3/3A What color should this part be? Triumph 5
JPSmit Bring a Trailer should be banned Other British Cars 3
M How well should the water pump free spin? Spridgets 4
C What should the VIN plate look like for a BN1? Austin Healey 1
N Spitfire Should this be bent? Triumph 4
PatGalvin TR2/3/3A what color should it be...? Triumph 7
C Inner Sill Assembly Should i spend extra money on kilmartin brand??? Austin Healey 4
60TR3A Should My '63 BJ7's Carburetors Have Brass Caps or Black Plastic? Austin Healey 3

Similar threads

Top