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Thread: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

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    LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    I had french made Quartz-Iodine headlights on my first Healey about 45 years ago. can't remember who made them but they were every bit as good as modern headlights. Does anyone have a suggestion as to the best option for replacement of my sealed beams on my current '67 Healey 3000???

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    I plan to put Cibie H4s on my car. Made a huge difference to the light output of my E-Type. But first I'm going to convert to an alternator.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    I plan to use Lucas LED headlights on my BJ8 and will be adding a headlight relay kit. Have already switched to an alternator.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Kaybee, do you anticipate a plug and play H4 bulb change-out to LEDs or are there adapters and load resistors involved in your conversion to deal with low current draw hyperflashing? GONZO

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    How much amperage do they pull? Wonder if a genny will supply enough.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    It's my understanding LEDs require less amps to power - something like 1/10 to 1/2 that of Halogens - or 0.5 to 2.5 Amps. Suits generator's output nicely. but then use of relays could also reduce power draw. GONZO

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Relays themselves consume power--just a few milliamps, typically--so they actually increase total power draw by a bit. The purpose of a relay is to use a small current to switch a larger current, hence saving your dash switch. Also, relays can often be placed closer to the load, avoiding voltage drop across a longer, heavier wire.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptRandy View Post
    How much amperage do they pull? Wonder if a genny will supply enough.
    The reduction in power to the led lamps in including the holding power of the relays will still be much less than the original type bulb current load and a genny wll smile all the way down the road.
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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Bob--

    Wouldn't the current draw of the relay be more than offset by less line loss/resistance as a result of the shorter current-carrying wire run?

    Best--Michael Oritt
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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Less resistance would cause more current draw, but would result in more voltage to the headlamps. The current draw of the relays is probably just a few milliamps, hence inconsequential, but with relays you have 2 or more circuits--one to power the load, and one to power the relay--each adding their own current draw. For example:

    Sealed beam and halogen headlamps consume about 60W of power; in a 12V system that's 5amps each. Switching headlights through the dash switch switches 10 amps, switching through relays--ignoring wiring and switch resistance--switches 10amps, plus whatever holding current the relays require. The long wire run from the battery wire at the solenoid, the fuse box, the panel switch and to the headlights will add some resistance, limiting the voltage applied to the headlights (plus, in a Healey, the same circuit powers ignition, fuel pump, etc.). Using a dedicated circuit for power--like the Moss kit apparently does--means less loss due to resistance, hence more voltage to the headlights. There's no advantage to using a relay--except less load on the panel switch--if, for instance, you just put one inline on the existing headlight circuit; the advantage comes from running a dedicated, larger gauge wire from the battery--like the Moss kit apparently does--and using the dash switch to switch the relays, which switch the dedicated circuit. The Moss kit appears to have an inline fuse as well, meaning it likely circumvents the fuse box and, if so, you could replace the 35A with a smaller one (say, 25A).
    Last edited by Bob_Spidell; 10-06-2017 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Simplify

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    I am going to look into changing to LED now that I know that the genny will supply enough power to light them. Will begin search for them.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Oritt View Post
    Bob--

    Wouldn't the current draw of the relay be more than offset by less line loss/resistance as a result of the shorter current-carrying wire run?

    Could be but will depend on the proper selection of the wire gauge between the switch and the relay's coil..
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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptRandy View Post
    I am going to look into changing to LED now that I know that the genny will supply enough power to light them. Will begin search for them.
    If you find some--esp. pos. gnd.--please let us know. I've not seen any aftermarket LED headlights that would be drop-in for sealed beams.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    With the installation of an alternator, I upgraded my headlights quite a while ago and used relays to allow my relatively thin wired original harness to be used for switching only and, in fact, have a lower overall amperage draw. When looking for higher lighting output, LED headlights were not an option and the amperage draw of the new sealed beams was quite a bit greater. To address this issue, I employed 3 relays (headlights and driving lights) and created new higher gauge wiring harnesses to pass the power from relay to lamps. Installation of the 3-relays for both headlights and driving lights was on the inside of the right side wheel well cover with a fused line to a direct alternator takeoff.

    Figure 3.jpg Figure 2.jpg

    Although I do appreciate the use of modern technology to improve Healey operational reliability and safety, I have tried to keep the original look a much as possible. Since I no longer use my Healey for evening drives, the LEDs could prove advantageous when driving with headlights on during the day (as is my practice). However, I would not convert to LEDs if their appearance would diminish the era-look of my Healey.

    Just my thoughts,
    Ray(64BJ8P1)
    Last edited by RAC68; 10-07-2017 at 07:44 AM.

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Quote Originally Posted by skipmurf View Post
    I had french made Quartz-Iodine headlights on my first Healey about 45 years ago. can't remember who made them but they were every bit as good as modern headlights. Does anyone have a suggestion as to the best option for replacement of my sealed beams on my current '67 Healey 3000???
    skipmurf, did you have Marchal's on your Healey? I found this interesting site with beautiful Marchal lamps: http://vintage-headlamp-restoration....marchal-lamps/

    Edit: I see these are all more vintage than our Healeys, but these lamps are beautiful nonetheless!
    Hugh
    1965 BJ8
    1958 AN5


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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    There are LEDs in H4 plug in options. The Marchals i have sitting on the shelf are EU-spec (France) from a 1958 Peugeot 403. Beautiful, agreed. But too early for H4 bulbs. Exploring Hella or Lucas option for LED H4 conversion but have concerns about hyperflashing without proper resistor(s) installed. GONZO

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Quote Originally Posted by gonzo View Post
    There are LEDs in H4 plug in options. The Marchals i have sitting on the shelf are EU-spec (France) from a 1958 Peugeot 403. Beautiful, agreed. But too early for H4 bulbs. Exploring Hella or Lucas option for LED H4 conversion but have concerns about hyperflashing without proper resistor(s) installed. GONZO
    Not sure what you mean by 'hyperflashing,' but if you mean turn signals that flash too fast that would only be a concern when replacing turn signal bulbs. Headlamps are on their own circuit (unless your headlights flash in unison with your turn signals )

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Quote Originally Posted by CLEAH View Post
    skipmurf, did you have Marchal's on your Healey? I found this interesting site with beautiful Marchal lamps: http://vintage-headlamp-restoration....marchal-lamps/

    Edit: I see these are all more vintage than our Healeys, but these lamps are beautiful nonetheless!
    To be honest, I don't remember. I am thinking but after seein g the box that they were actually CIBIEs but that's a total guess. They were totally plug and play, maybe done before issues arose regarding the change over. Don't really want to rewire the car for new headlights, but sealed beams simply don't cut it today. I am from Kirtland. We should meet. skipmurf@divgrowth.com

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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Hi Skip, I'm in Cleveland Heights and am in Kirtland a lot. I'll drop you a line.
    Hugh
    1965 BJ8
    1958 AN5


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    Re: LED or Quartz-Iodine headlights for my '67 AH 3000

    Hi, Mr. Murfey. Thanks for writing:

    > I want the aforementioned CIBIE H4s for the above auto. Do I have the
    > right replacement for my sealed beams?

    Yes, you do. The lamps are $158/pair. Optimal bulbs are $43.18/pair.

    You will definitely want to install headlamp relays. This can be done with parts kit RIK-2, $49. The RIK is not a harness, but a _parts kit_ containing all relays, brackets, terminal blocks, terminals, plugs, sockets, fuses and fuseholders. You supply your own wire (or your mechanic
    does) and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness to take the workload off the switches and bring full power to the lamps. The concept is explained at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html .
    Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store.

    Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components.
    Cost for this option is $161.49 (including parts and labour
    - you pick _either_ one relay kit _or_ one custom-built harness to do the entire job. It costs more than the $40 to
    $90 cheapy prefab harnesses because it is not a cheapy prefab harness). Installation is simple: you run the marked wires to battery positive and to battery negative, snap the harness plug onto one of the vehicle's original headlamp sockets, snap the harness sockets onto the headlamps, and secure the cable runs and relays neatly out of harm's way.

    Either way, parts kit or built-up harness, the in-car switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires.

    Lamp aim is by far the main thing that determines how well you can (or can't) see at night, so no matter what, you will need to see to it that the lamps are aimed carefully and correctly with an optical aiming machine per the "VOL"
    instructions at
    http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html .

    Result of this installation will be modern-car levels of headlamp performance: broad, even, bright white (NOT brown, NOT blue) well-focused low and high beams instead of the dim, narrow tunnel of brownish light from the original sealed beams. Also total elimination of backscatter in rain/fog/snow.

    IS ALL THIS REQUIRED TO PROPERLY INSTALL THE LIGHTS YOU MENTION - THIS IS DANIEL STERN - COST ROUGHLY $350 PLUS LABOR

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