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Thread: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

  1. #21
    Jedi Hopeful
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Both sleeves are out. It is interesting that despite the goopy welds from the factory, they seems to have stuck hard in some places and released easily from others. For example, the inside bracket virtually popped off the DS upright, and on the PS if you look closely despite a lot of drilling and pounding with the chisel broke rather than release...

    Anyway, for the unfortunate sod who reads this because they are in the same boat:

    If yours is stuck like mine, drilling is not worth it, the pin fused to the sleeve throughout -
    Do have a grinder with grinding and cutting discs
    Do buy the arbor for the drill that takes the smaller thinner discs - see if you can find 1.5-2 inch discs, my almost worn out ones got into tight spaces better (see pic).
    You are also going to need a pile of small drill bits (the angles will break them constantly), a chisel and regular and 5 pound sledge to break some of the welds
    Also, cut and fold out of the way the front bracket, seems to be the only way to get at the rest of it with a grinder.

    Next I will have to source some tubing, but I am going to wait until the pins get here so I can ensure a tight fit. Is the tube proud of the front and rear brackets? Or, if someone has the ability to measure the total length, that would be helpful,

    BTW, the second sleeve removal took just shy of 2 hours, but I have more repair to do on the upright than the first.

    Cheers,
    Kerry
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  2. #22
    Jedi Warrior
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Was this the TR you had on the classified?

    I presume you will use the removable part of the bracket to get your alignment for reassembly.

    I will see if I can get some dimensions off my frame. Front suspension is reassembled so I do not have much room.

    David

  3. #23
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Well done Kerry. Thanks for the pictures too. I may be the poor sod doing this on one side of my spare fame.
    The tube length is 8 inches exact. This is confirmed by the side view of the frame unit that is in the Factory Service Manual. My scanner is not working or I'd include a picture. If nobody offers an e-copy of the diagram, I can send you one in the mail.
    I use Onlinemetals for tubing and such, fast and not too expensive.
    frame pin.jpg
    Tom
    1960 TR3A TS73117 (under restoration year 6, owned since 1964)
    1959 TR3A TS58023 (in case I never finish the one above)
    1969 Triumph Herald 13/60 (a whim)
    1973 Buick Apollo (was Dad's car)
    1992 BMW325IC (fun to drive)

  4. #24
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Congrats! As far as I know your the first on the forum to tackle that huge job. Replacing will be easier, but may take as much time getting the alignments perfect. Appreciate the pics as you went!
    John

    1955 TR2

  5. #25
    Jedi Warrior
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    See if these help. The last one appears to show that it is a solid pin welded into the frame not in a tube.

    David

    Frame front.jpgFrame front 2.jpgFront suspension pin.jpg

  6. #26
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Thanks folks - appreciate the pics.
    Alignment shouldn't be too bad given that I left the outer wings intact and I now know the exact tube length.

    The challenging part will be welding the inner bracket as you can't pre-weld it to the tube because of space constraints. I may oversize this bracket a bit as the PS took a bit of a beating before releasing and I'd rather be slightly off for size to maintain strength.

    David, thanks for the pictures. Notwithstanding the images, I am pretty sure that it is a tube and pin, but I am waiting for the pin to arrive anyway before I move forward, so will have the option to verify when the part gets here.

  7. #27
    Senior Member jfarris's Avatar
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Kerry,
    If you are considering a "brake upgrade," I suggest you examine the popular Toyota calipers that fit Triumphs. I have them on both my TR6 and TR3.
    What a job, you did good!
    Jim Farris
    56 TR3 - Salvador Blue
    73 TR6 - Pimento
    13 Mini Cooper S Bayswater Edition - Blue

  8. #28
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Thanks Jim - yes, I am looking at the Toyo brakes. once I am a bit further along I will be looking for a pair of tr6 hangers...

    Salvador Blue, awesome, I had that color on my first TR3, a 59, bet it looks great on your '56,

    Cheers,
    Kerry

  9. #29
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    So, my fulcrum pins arrived today. Main learning: do not try and drill, it is one piece of turned metal.

    The difference in width between the original is about half a millimeter or less than .03 inch.

    The challenge now will be welding, I am going to have to get that pin pretty hot to bond before I can fold the weld pool over to the thin brackets without burning through them. Also, the pin can't go in with the bracket already attached, so there will be space constraints. So get ready for some fat ugly welds... that is, once I get more welding gas...

    (David, you were totally right, pin, no tube!)
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    Last edited by wifegonnakillme; Today at 12:00 AM.

  10. #30
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    So it looks like the pins are not in a tube, but rather are stepped in size. I didn't see that coming!
    John

    1955 TR2

  11. #31
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Neither did I... especially since I convinced myself there was an "edge" while drilling...

    However, if YOU were surprised John, i feel my work here is done, won't be able to top that for the rest of the build

  12. #32
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    I think everyone has learned from your endeavor! Too bad we can't teach the lesson to your PO that hacked off the ends to begin with...
    John

    1955 TR2

  13. #33
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Quote Originally Posted by CJD View Post
    I think everyone has learned from your endeavor! Too bad we can't teach the lesson to your PO that hacked off the ends to begin with...
    +1 on both.
    Tom
    1960 TR3A TS73117 (under restoration year 6, owned since 1964)
    1959 TR3A TS58023 (in case I never finish the one above)
    1969 Triumph Herald 13/60 (a whim)
    1973 Buick Apollo (was Dad's car)
    1992 BMW325IC (fun to drive)

  14. #34
    Jedi Warrior
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Can you use the outer support brackets to help you position the new pins?

    Good luck with your welding. Looks like it is going to be tight to get in there.

    David

  15. #35
    Yoda TR4nut's Avatar
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Wow- excellent! Just a thought, if you get stuck on fabrication you might want to contact Tony over at Rat-co, he may be able to sell you some of the brackets etc: https://www.sites.google.com/site/to...uction-details

    I should have thought of that earlier as he may have been able to provide the pins too, but then again he may use the same source you used.
    Randy
    70 TR6 - running
    59 TR3A - slumbering
    64 TR4 - got another one!

  16. #36
    Obi Wan
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    Re: Tell me there is a trick to removing lower control arm pin...

    Exceptional work, I have always feared one of those breaking. I would have commented earlier, but I was more of a student. Again I am not a fabricator, but would it be possible to make a saddle that would go under and up in one piece U shaped and then welded mostly from the bottom and side and the U saddle for bearing load. Maybe 3/8 thick with a couple of holes and simple design should not be too noticeable, maybe kinda sorta.

    steve

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