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TR4/4A Replacing in situ oils sealing gearbox and rear axle
- Thread starter Tr-Beg
- Start date
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trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
Offline
When was the last time you dropped the exhaust system? There in lies the big in the way problem.
The drive shaft drop is a pain and undoing the nuts on the rear end and transmission requires you leave two bolts in the flange and brace a crow bar on the ground to break it loose. Mark the position of the nuts, so as to put them back with correct torque. The rear has a crush sleeve and you don't want to mess up the adjustment. Clean the surface the seal rides on and be prepared to have smelly oil all over you if not on the floor. Be sure and top both back up with proper oil.
Wayne
The drive shaft drop is a pain and undoing the nuts on the rear end and transmission requires you leave two bolts in the flange and brace a crow bar on the ground to break it loose. Mark the position of the nuts, so as to put them back with correct torque. The rear has a crush sleeve and you don't want to mess up the adjustment. Clean the surface the seal rides on and be prepared to have smelly oil all over you if not on the floor. Be sure and top both back up with proper oil.
Wayne
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Kind of the same thing in getting the nuts off. Insert two bolts in the flange of either and brace it on the drive way of floor. There is a tool made for this, but a crow bar will work for you to get a socket on the nut.
I can't stress enough about putting it back like you found it, make a mark with a punch, a magic maker will wash away with the oil.
Wayne
I can't stress enough about putting it back like you found it, make a mark with a punch, a magic maker will wash away with the oil.
Wayne
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
I used this to remove the pinion seal on 2 TRs and a Healey:
https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-with-2-tips-63039.html
As I recall, others have inserted stout sheet metal screws into the metal of the seal and pulled, some may have used a slide hammer. But space in limited so you have to work with what fits.
https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-with-2-tips-63039.html
As I recall, others have inserted stout sheet metal screws into the metal of the seal and pulled, some may have used a slide hammer. But space in limited so you have to work with what fits.
Changing the trans. rear seal (and front) is relatively easy with both units on a bench. The Harbor Freight tool shown bent on the first attempted use. I bought one of the same type (Lsyle) brand and it has pulled many seals without a problem.
Also, the spacer used on the TR4A is the solid type, not the crush type, unless the diff from a late TR6 has been used.
Berry
Also, the spacer used on the TR4A is the solid type, not the crush type, unless the diff from a late TR6 has been used.
Berry
My problem was the presence of the shaft in the center in both case of course, I didn't knew there are tools for that, thanks to improve my knowledge, I will first order one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_VQHvqXaYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_VQHvqXaYU
The seal puller tool makes removing the seal easy, but it can also be removed by attacking with a screwdriver and mangling the seal into submission. Also, consider replacing the axle seals and drilling&tapping the diff case for a drain plug, and inspecting the mounts (especially the right front) for cracking. The frame is also prone to cracking where the mounting studs are welded to it. Lots of things to do when the diff and trans. are out.
Berry
Berry
poolboy
Yoda
Offline
You can or you can use a pump. Before I made a drain I used the same pump that I used to fill the differential to empty the differential.
You'll find these at auto parts stores:
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-...=UTF8&qid=1503929333&sr=8-7&keywords=gear+oil
You'll find these at auto parts stores:
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-...=UTF8&qid=1503929333&sr=8-7&keywords=gear+oil
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
That is how I have always done it. Wouldn't you like to have a chat with the accountant (it couldn't have been an engineer) who realized they could save 10d per car by eliminating the drain plug?
At least it is a good chance to inspect the innards while it is off.
I have had those same thoughts about putting a rear seal into the tail shaft of a tr3, either by removing the whole tail shaft or trying to get the seal out with the trany in place. I have not got under the car and really studied the situation. Heck if it was not for the apron, I would pull the engine and trans together, but I have just pulled the trany out from inside the cockpit a few times.
Anyways I have pulled those seals out in every way mentioned above, and one thing is always true be very careful of the case. Do not put a tool between the seal and the case because a good size scratch in the case will leak. Plus there might be one there now, so when you reinstall the new seal check and just for insurance put something on the outside of the seal like aviation gasket sealer or something like that.
steve
Anyways I have pulled those seals out in every way mentioned above, and one thing is always true be very careful of the case. Do not put a tool between the seal and the case because a good size scratch in the case will leak. Plus there might be one there now, so when you reinstall the new seal check and just for insurance put something on the outside of the seal like aviation gasket sealer or something like that.
steve
Good advice, exactly what I had here...
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?110687-Tr4A-oil-leaking-from-timing-cover
KVH
Darth Vader
Offline
Maybe I'm just too finicky and cautious, but I had one heck of a time getting that seal out, even with the differential out of the car. The center pinion is in the way, and mangling the seal would seem to have involved marring and maybe mangling the seal housing. I was able, finally, to use an improvised puller where shoulders of the pulling rods tucked under the seal ridges and the center stud pressed on the pinion shaft. Needless to say, it was a small, compact puller. Hope that's not too obtuse an explanation.
Maybe for your Christmas...
https://www.kangstools.com/home/174...-installation-set-kit-tool-5060427681805.html
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