TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
Offline
This is getting a little old, so please bear with me...
I am working on a TR4A restoration that started more than 15 years ago. The project moved garages several times while TR3,4,4A,6 parts were joined and disjoined -after the car was taken completely apart. The engine was overhauled by one person, the transmission by another -both more than 10 years ago. The clutch was installed and the engine/tranny joined together by me about 5 years ago. Neither had been tested until recently. The car was nearly all back together (interior, wiring etc) about a month ago when we found the clutch will not disengage enough to put it in gear with the engine running. It will start in gear with the clutch in, and the brakes will hold it in place, but the car really wants to go. All the available clutch disengagement is at the very end of travel of the pedal (the bottom/floor).
The push rod was at an unusual angle as it exited the slave ie. pointed up towards the lever, instead of straight in line with the slave. We took a slave bracket from a TR6, and cut off the section that would hit against the oil pan, and installed it since the center line of the slave seems to have shifted from the TR3/4 to TR4A thru TR6. That 'straightened' out the angle of the push rod to the center hole of the clutch lever on the end of the cross shaft. -Tho it has been argued that the transmissions, in regards to the clutch shaft/lever are the same from TR3 thru TR6 -so there should be no difference. We have the stay-rod (to oil pan) installed to one side of the slave cylinder so the plate cannot deflect.
The MC and slave were new. We installed a(nother) new 'longer throw' slave. We have nearly 3/4" of travel measured at the end of the push rod.
Last week we pulled the transmission and found it has a 3-finger clutch and had the wrong (rounded) throw-out bearing. The cross shaft looks new, the fork looks new, the infamous pin looks new. We got a new (TR4) carrier and throw-out (flat/square edged) bearing. It seems the flywheel on the engine is from a TR3/4, so the 3-finger clutch was installed (since the bolt pattern is different for the TR4A diaphragm clutch). Rather than swap out the flywheel, we chose to go with the older style TO, and put it back together (today).
We still have 3/4" of travel measured at the end of the push rod, but still can't put the car in gear with the engine running. The spring (we added a hole to the bracket) is pulling the slave back to the bottom and we have a slight bit of clearance before the TO hits the fingers.
What are we missing? Is there some other clutch operating difference between the TR3/4 and TR4A/250/6 ?
I am working on a TR4A restoration that started more than 15 years ago. The project moved garages several times while TR3,4,4A,6 parts were joined and disjoined -after the car was taken completely apart. The engine was overhauled by one person, the transmission by another -both more than 10 years ago. The clutch was installed and the engine/tranny joined together by me about 5 years ago. Neither had been tested until recently. The car was nearly all back together (interior, wiring etc) about a month ago when we found the clutch will not disengage enough to put it in gear with the engine running. It will start in gear with the clutch in, and the brakes will hold it in place, but the car really wants to go. All the available clutch disengagement is at the very end of travel of the pedal (the bottom/floor).
The push rod was at an unusual angle as it exited the slave ie. pointed up towards the lever, instead of straight in line with the slave. We took a slave bracket from a TR6, and cut off the section that would hit against the oil pan, and installed it since the center line of the slave seems to have shifted from the TR3/4 to TR4A thru TR6. That 'straightened' out the angle of the push rod to the center hole of the clutch lever on the end of the cross shaft. -Tho it has been argued that the transmissions, in regards to the clutch shaft/lever are the same from TR3 thru TR6 -so there should be no difference. We have the stay-rod (to oil pan) installed to one side of the slave cylinder so the plate cannot deflect.
The MC and slave were new. We installed a(nother) new 'longer throw' slave. We have nearly 3/4" of travel measured at the end of the push rod.
Last week we pulled the transmission and found it has a 3-finger clutch and had the wrong (rounded) throw-out bearing. The cross shaft looks new, the fork looks new, the infamous pin looks new. We got a new (TR4) carrier and throw-out (flat/square edged) bearing. It seems the flywheel on the engine is from a TR3/4, so the 3-finger clutch was installed (since the bolt pattern is different for the TR4A diaphragm clutch). Rather than swap out the flywheel, we chose to go with the older style TO, and put it back together (today).
We still have 3/4" of travel measured at the end of the push rod, but still can't put the car in gear with the engine running. The spring (we added a hole to the bracket) is pulling the slave back to the bottom and we have a slight bit of clearance before the TO hits the fingers.
What are we missing? Is there some other clutch operating difference between the TR3/4 and TR4A/250/6 ?