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Thread: Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

  1. #1
    Jedi Hopeful
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    Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

    Hi all and Randall if your there
    1. The voltage stabilizer. When I tested it on the bench, the output voltage equaled the input. Does it have to be under load to reduce the voltage?
    2. What exactly is the routing path for the 3 cables on the right side (hood release, choke and heater control).
    A picture is worth plenty
    Thanks for watching
    Al Shoop
    65 TR4A #CT55092

  2. #2

    Re: Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

    If you have the old-style stabilizer, which uses a bimetallic strip and heater, you could get almost anything, depending on how you measured it. If it's working, and you are using an analog meter, you should see about 10V. If you use a digital meter, probably you'll get nonsense readings that fluctuate all over the map.

    If you have one of the newer replacements, which uses an IC, you really should get the right output voltage with no load. Getting full input voltage at the output is a common failure mode.
    Steve Maas
    1966 Triumph TR4A, undergoing restoration: http://www.nonlintec.com/tr4a
    1952 MG TD, restoration completed 2014, sold 2016: http://www.nonlintec.com/mgtd
    1960 Austin-Healey "Bugeye" Sprite, sold 2010: http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite
    1967 Porsche 912: http://www.nonlintec.com/porsche

  3. #3
    Great Pumpkin TR3driver's Avatar
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    Re: Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

    All of the original style ones that I have seen flash slowly enough to confuse even an analog meter, at least the usual sensitive test meter. Somewhere there is a document from Smiths telling how to use one of the dash gauges to compare the VS output to a 10v reference.

    But otherwise, I agree with Steve. Full output probably indicates either a bad ground, or a bad stabilizer. Assuming your input is above 12v or so.

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    Yoda dklawson's Avatar
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    Re: Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

    To extend the comments above, when testing the output of the stabilizer, you have to have your power supply connected to both the stabilizer case (ground) and the stabilizer's "B" terminal (hot). Then measure the output between the case and the stabilizer's "I" terminal. The case must be connected to ground. As stated above, the output is not a steady voltage but a series of on/off pulses so you should expect your meter readings to bounce around.
    Doug L.
    '64 Morris Mini Cooper-S 1275
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  5. #5
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

    The dumb test, which I use, is that if the fuel and temp gauges seem reasonably accurate and steady, the stabilizer is probably ok.
    Tom
    1960 TR3A TS73117 (under restoration year 6, owned since 1964)
    1959 TR3A TS58023 (in case I never finish the one above)
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  6. #6
    Jedi Hopeful
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    Re: Voltage stabilizer and cable routings?

    Using your suggestions, I wired it up on the bench. I have a Fluke digital readout and it behaved as you predicted, bouncing in and out. I guess that this means that it's working. Also it got a bit warm as I was testing it out so I guess that I have the old style which is not surprising since it is the original 1965 unit.
    So thanks to you all.
    Still need the cable routes for the hood release, choke and heater controls
    65 TR4A #CT55092

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