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Thread: Hydralic bleed

  1. #1

    Hydralic bleed

    I've replaced both the Master and Slave cylinder on myTR4, line bent by hand to conform. No leaks, no kinks. I'm having to pump the clutch pedal to get pressure to engage clutch. No shudder, just spin on downshift. reservoir full. Clutch replaced 7 or so years ago. Was all good last season. Opinions appreciated.
    Winston 67TR4A IRS

  2. #2
    Yoda Geo Hahn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Mt Lemmon, Arizona

    Re: Hydralic bleed

    You might look at how much movement you get on the clutch operating arm (the thing that the slave moves) -- I think that should be around 1/2 to 5/8" of movement.

    That might give you a clue as to whether the issue is hydraulics or something internal.

    If hydraulics at fault - try again to bleed.

    If internal -- one suspect that comes to mind is a broken clutch fork pin.

  3. #3

    Re: Hydralic bleed

    Assuming there is no visible leakage, I see two possibilities:

    1. The clutch needs bleeding.

    2. The master cylinder needs to be rebuilt. The valve seal is allowing leakage back into the reservoir.

    The good news is that both are cheap options.
    Steve Maas
    1966 Triumph TR4A, undergoing restoration:
    1952 MG TD, restoration completed 2014, sold 2016:
    1960 Austin-Healey "Bugeye" Sprite, sold 2010:
    1967 Porsche 912:

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Perkasie, PA

    Re: Hydralic bleed

    Sometimes you have to back bleed or power bleed to get the last bit of air wants to stay at the highest part of the tubing.

  5. #5
    Jedi Hopeful
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    St. Louis, MO USA

    Re: Hydralic bleed

    it's easy to put a power bleeder under the car on the slave nipple and push fluid up to the master. If you get bubbles in the fluid in the master you may have had some air in the system.

    here is a good example of how to.. different system same concept.


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