TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
Offline
This morning at breakfast I got to see the TR4 workshop manual including the picture of a dial indicator but no explanation or indication of what the bearing end-float should be. It seems in reading elsewhere, there should be no pre-load, and the end-float should be between at least .001, to .004 or .005 depending on who is defining it. Since we had no other dead horses to beat we decided to do a little math...
The threads on the end of the shaft and nut are 20 threads per inch. The castellated nut has six sides or flats, each with a slot to fit the cotter pin. The axle end has two holes drilled at 90 degrees to each other. This allows the nut to have 12 different positions per revolution to insert the pin, since each 1/2 flat exposes a hole.
1/20/12=.004 It seems very possible to get the end-float pretty close. Even with the seal not installed, I guess this measurement must be done prior to grease added, or the measurement could be way off. It seems to me that either method of setting the float will result in the same setting.
We have a club member who has put over 100,000 miles on his TR3 and works on many TRs. He has never used nor heard of anyone using a dial indicator to set end float. Then again, he never replaced a stub axle or had a bearing fail like mine has. Maybe some of us are luckier than others -and after looking at my D-washer and inner race, he thinks I am the lucky one. Maybe you've got to be very lucky to drive a TR3 until a wheel falls off.
The threads on the end of the shaft and nut are 20 threads per inch. The castellated nut has six sides or flats, each with a slot to fit the cotter pin. The axle end has two holes drilled at 90 degrees to each other. This allows the nut to have 12 different positions per revolution to insert the pin, since each 1/2 flat exposes a hole.
1/20/12=.004 It seems very possible to get the end-float pretty close. Even with the seal not installed, I guess this measurement must be done prior to grease added, or the measurement could be way off. It seems to me that either method of setting the float will result in the same setting.
We have a club member who has put over 100,000 miles on his TR3 and works on many TRs. He has never used nor heard of anyone using a dial indicator to set end float. Then again, he never replaced a stub axle or had a bearing fail like mine has. Maybe some of us are luckier than others -and after looking at my D-washer and inner race, he thinks I am the lucky one. Maybe you've got to be very lucky to drive a TR3 until a wheel falls off.