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TR4/4A Trans/OD gear oil?

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shoopal

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What to use? The official TR manual says 90 wt. The laycock overdrive maintenance manual says SAE 30 wt. Some posts and Buckeye have recommended red line GL4 Mt-90 or Mt-85 or MtL
Leo Ruof (an OD rebuilder whom I trust) says 30 Wt. and is pretty adamant about it.
What is the final answer?
 
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JerryVV

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Recently a few owners that I know have had issues with rebuilt OD's not releasing OD because of clutch sticking. RedLine MT-90 resolved it in all cases. I use MT-90 with good results, remember technology has come a long way since these units were first built. SAE 30 weight is really designed for engines not transmissions and it too has changed over the years with modern additives designed for modern engines. No disrespect towards your OD builder friend only my personal experience with my OD and others.
 
CJD

CJD

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JerryVV said:
Recently a few owners that I know have had issues with rebuilt OD's not releasing OD because of clutch sticking. RedLine MT-90 resolved it in all cases. I use MT-90 with good results, remember technology has come a long way since these units were first built. SAE 30 weight is really designed for engines not transmissions and it too has changed over the years with modern additives designed for modern engines. No disrespect towards your OD builder friend only my personal experience with my OD and others.
Click to expand...

Jerry...thank you for the info. I have a fresh rebuild that sticks, so I have to get under the car and rap the ring with a hammer to release it. I'm using ND 30w. I was considering a post about the sticking, but you answered the question! I'll grab some Redline today!
 
Merlin63Tr4

Merlin63Tr4

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Shoopal,

There are so many opinions on what is best for the Laycock de Normanvile OD, anything from SAE 30, GL4 90 Wt, MTL, ATF, etc, etc..

My Volvo 240 used ATF in it's Laycock de Normanvile OD equipped transmission, and it was still running strong at 335,573 miles when I sold it, and last I heard it's still running strong today.

I have been using Redline MTL in my TR4's OD transmission for years without a problem.
The transmission shifts better with MTL, or at least mine does.
YMMV.

M.
 
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JerryVV

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In one case (a racer) it took several iterations but eventually started working well. He's a bit anal about his oils and went back to a Brad Penn product once it started working. Have not heard any more about his issues. May see him next weekend and will ask. Other cases it was an immediate fix. Yours may be different but whatever you do don't back up with it stuck.
 
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shoopal

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Leo replies:
"I am a fan of putting in what the factory calls for. Redline will
definitely "seep"
(my word, he used a different one - a synonym of urinate which for some reason got blocked)
out around the cross shaft o-rings. It will also bleed
around the actuating piston if they are the o-ring style. Which can
change the way it engages. Redline can also foam"
 
T

TFB

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CJD said:
Jerry...thank you for the info. I have a fresh rebuild that sticks, so I have to get under the car and rap the ring with a hammer to release it. I'm using ND 30w. I was considering a post about the sticking, but you answered the question! I'll grab some Redline today!
Click to expand...

I had the exact same issues as you described in a previous post only I initially filled with the mt-90 and after the first rap(as directed by rebuilder) the od released and I flipped it in and out a few times on jackstands and it never stuck again .
8K miles and everything is fine except for the bronze looking fines in the oil changes which I suspect is more from the clutch than thrust washers,but I have never seen the clutch material so time will tell.
Tom
 
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JerryVV

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My personal experience does not support any of his objections, I used Hylomar sealant the last time I had it apart and my leaks are now less than the previous assembly. Don't recall if I have the O-ring style pistons, I've had several apart over the years and have seen both types. Just don't recall.
 
TR4nut

TR4nut

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TFB - the brass won't be from the clutch it's material is similar to an actual clutch disk. If you put in new syncros they are a likely source too. I don't think it's s sign of pending doom as my gearbox did that too and has run just fine for a long time.
 
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TFB

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TR4nut said:
TFB - the brass won't be from the clutch it's material is similar to an actual clutch disk. If you put in new syncros they are a likely source too. I don't think it's s sign of pending doom as my gearbox did that too and has run just fine for a long time.
Click to expand...

Thanks,yes I believe the syncros are new ,And everything I have read about the bronze/brass fines is don't worry,but I will be changing the oil more frequently than if it came out cleaner.

Tom
 
CJD

CJD

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JerryVV said:
In one case (a racer) it took several iterations but eventually started working well. He's a bit anal about his oils and went back to a Brad Penn product once it started working. Have not heard any more about his issues. May see him next weekend and will ask. Other cases it was an immediate fix. Yours may be different but whatever you do don't back up with it stuck.
Click to expand...

I drove around looking for the Redline yesterday with no luck. I did engage the OD couple times and it actually came out without sticking. It may take a while for the cone to shape the friction material after a rebuild? Anyway...I still plan to go with the Redline when I can mail order a couple quarts. Thanks!
 
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JerryVV

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I buy MT-90 locally at Summit Racing, surprised that a speed shop in the Dallas area doesn't stock it. Doubt the local parts store would however.

CJD said:
I drove around looking for the Redline yesterday with no luck. I did engage the OD couple times and it actually came out without sticking. It may take a while for the cone to shape the friction material after a rebuild? Anyway...I still plan to go with the Redline when I can mail order a couple quarts. Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
TR3driver

TR3driver

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Might be worth pointing out that Standard-Triumph changed their recommendation to GL4. So the Redline IS what the factory recommended.

I've been using it for over 10 years, and it works well for me. Leaks are no worse and the main gearbox shifts noticeably better.
 
CJD

CJD

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Quick follow-up. I finally got the TR2 back on the road after changing to the Red Line GL-4 (from ND30w oil). The tranny shifts great and no sticking in OD. The OD engages instantly and disengages in about a half second. So I'm sold on the GL4!
 
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