TR2/3/3A I have a tick, or maybe a slight tock... valves? Springs? What?

i just finished work on my rod bearings, the crank looked to be I good shape and mic'd well within the range of wear. My original post (that concluded with replacing rod bearings that alleviated the knock from my engine. I mentioned that the sound would go away when the engine warmed up a bit. I believe that I was working on two problems and the rod bearings were half and this is the other half. I don't know where to start on this...

here you can hear the tick I'm talking about.
https://youtu.be/WY81QxtaAA4

it doesn't occur at idle as it fades completely when load is taken off the vehicle. You can hear my shift from two gears (I believe it's first and second). Where is a good place to start?

You might get some ideas here: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?92308-Engine-Noise-Advice-Please

Tom

Thanks Tom, a lot of good info there. I'll start checking those things off my list.

So, it only happens when the vehicle is moving? Does it happen with the clutch pressed in?

You wrote previously that you were going to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets, did you get that done?
Have you checked the exhaust manifold for cracks?

M.

To me that sounds like a worse problem, like a rod bearing or wrist pin. What happens when the motor is warm and everything is at operating temp say a 1/2 hour of driving, and you open that MOTHER up to say 5.5 to 6K? Does it sound like the poop is going to hit the fan with thuds and rattles or just a wound tight motor?
Steve

sp53 said:

To me that sounds like a worse problem, like a rod bearing or wrist pin. What happens when the motor is warm and everything is at operating temp say a 1/2 hour of driving, and you open that MOTHER up to say 5.5 to 6K? Does it sound like the poop is going to hit the fan with thuds and rattles or just a wound tight motor?
Steve

Click to expand...

That is along my train of thought. If the rod big end bearings were worn out, it is likely everything else is worn out to match. Sorry...just the way it works. Drive it until it becomes unbearable and plan to rebuild the entire engine when it does. Or, you can rebuild it one tick/knock at a time. You'll end up at the same place in the end!?!

So I took the car out for date night last night and before we left, I checked oil (good) checked coolant (1/2 qt low) and I tightened a bolt that was slightly loose on the generator. I hop in the car and *NO SOUND* at all!! Gone. Voodoo mechanics. After dinner, the noise was back, but at 1/3 the volume of before.

I checked the big end bearings and wrist pins for play and they are tight. I'm thinking it has something to do with the cooling system. Only because I've seen some relief before with the coolant being added (when I first got the car running, the heater was closed and didn't have coolant, once I opened it I heard that sound, added coolant it it got better). Doesn't make a ton of sense, anything in there that would love coolant this much?!

Oh and when I open it up it sounds perfect. I really only hear the rattle between 900 and 1200 rpm.

Timing chain? Put a screwdriver on the cover when the noise is there and you will feel it if that is the problem.
Bob

Thanks Bob, I will try that next time I hear it.

Well, I have to say I am starting to think the noise is actually a rattle. I am going to replace the engine mounts (needs to be done anyway) I have a feeling this is going to fix it. The way it comes and goes. I tuned the carbs and the noise almost went away, and it's not that it is silent.... it's intermittent. Also would explain why I can't pinpoint the noise with (makeshift) stethoscope. Just my Saturday afternoon idea.